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Hi i´m a swedish Alfa Romeo owner with som problems i could use some help with.
My English writing/spelling aint the best, but i´ll try!

I recently bought an Alfa Romeo 155 TS 1.8 (8v) -97.
The car used to be a policecar in Italy, but is now imported to Sweden. And i bought it from the one that imported it.

So to the big problem:
If i am standing still with the car and the gear is in neutral, the engine wont run in more than 2800rpm when i push the pedal down maximum.
When i am driving it´s impossible to get past 3000rpm (1.2.3.4gears)
On the fifth gear i can get the engine to run 4000rpm and at a speed of 120km/h. But no more.
It is just like the rpm-stop(red mark on rpm measuring device) has been moved down from 5800rpm, to 2800rpm-4000 depending on wich gear.
The car did not pass The Swedish Motor Vehicle Inspection Co. Reason: Exhauste fumes...to much pollution.

Is there anyone who have heard of a problem like this before...!?
Anyone who knows what is causing this problem with the limited rpm?
Any suggestions at all is extremly welcome!

I am going to turn the car in for a diagnosic test, but i really do need some help.

Please e-mail to me at: [email protected] <----

Or reply to this thread of course...

/Krille :confused:
Sweden
 
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Welcome :D

If your car failed the emmissions test it is most likely to be the lambda sensor I think. Perhaps you also have an air leak on the induction side. Check all the pipes...I think Speedy normally says to spray carb cleaner around them and if the engine revs change you have found the leak.

wrinx
 
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I agree with Wrinx about the lambda probe (oxygen sensor).
You say your redline is at 5800rpm ???? That is very low. They are normally 6300rpm for the 1.8litre 8v with the limiter set at 6500rpm (mines 6800rpm with the Squadra chip).
It seems you can get the revs higher the faster you are travelling. That to me would suggest that the "ram-air" is making it easier to rev, therefore in my mind, I would check the air filter also. It may be very blocked. You could take the filter out for a minute and try revving the engine.
Another thing to check is the connection to the Air Flow Meter (AFM). I once forgot to plug it back in after changing the air filter and the car wouldn't rev properly although ticked over fine.
 
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wrinx said:
Welcome :D

If your car failed the emmissions test it is most likely to be the lambda sensor I think. Perhaps you also have an air leak on the induction side. Check all the pipes...I think Speedy normally says to spray carb cleaner around them and if the engine revs change you have found the leak.

wrinx
thnx!

Yes, i bought some carb cleaner to test if there is a leak somewhere, i shall test later today.
I am also going to test if it is the ignition that fails at 2800rpm.

/Krille
Sweden
 
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Sorry, i didnt remember exactly where the redline was on the 155, i took a guess on around 5800rpm cause i had a Alfa Romeo 75 turbo before and its´redline was at 5800.
hehe, yes i have experienced a loose Air Flow Meter connection before, not nice att all :)
I have checked all connections and used electronic cleaning spray on them to.
I tried to run the engine without the airfilter but it was still unwilling to get past 2800rpm.
I shall investigate this furter and i am happy for all suggestions of the problem!

/Krille
Sweden
 

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This may sound a bit stupid but have you checked the adjustment on the throttle cable :confused: ...............to make sure when you press the pedal down that you are getting Full Throttle :confused:

Also check the Flap in the throttle body and make sure it`s free and is not seized ...............also check the Idle Control Unit is working as sometimes if they are`nt they will stop the engine revving fully

Er other than that it might be the Camshaft Sensor (if it has one)but try the throttle linkages/cables first
 
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I forgot an IMPORTANT thing. If i start the car in the morning for example, when the engine is cold. It runs normal! It is when the engine gets to normal temperature (90c) the problem appears.

I tested the carb cleaner today and there was no leak.

But one thing was interresting! As i explained earlier the engine wont run more than 2800rpmin neutral gear, it acts just like the rpm hits the red area.
But when i pulled the throttel full (the wire), manually from the engineroom and the engine stopped at 2800rpm. The same time i added some carb cleanar direktly to the air intake! Voooops The engine acted normal for 2-3seconds...
So my guess is that the engine stops at 2800rpm because it gets to much air/or to little petrol/gasoline...
 
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Throttle potentiometer . . . . . . I had a similar problem on a car once before and it turned out to be the throttle pot???? Worth a try . . . . .???
 

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As Frankie says throttle potentiometer ................Before you buy one though check the fuel pressure also the flap in the throttle body

And just thinking about it you say it only does it when warm ie 90 degrees might be the Temp sensor at fault and sending the wrong temp to the ECU which is then limiting fuel to the injector`s to stop engine damage due to overhaeting :confused: ie it thinks it`s over 120 degree`s for example and if max revs allowed by ECU would blow the motor so it limits the revs and puts you into "get you home mode" so you don`t wreck the engine

Hope you understand what i mean :D
 
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speed freak said:
As Frankie says throttle potentiometer ................Before you buy one though check the fuel pressure also the flap in the throttle body

And just thinking about it you say it only does it when warm ie 90 degrees might be the Temp sensor at fault and sending the wrong temp to the ECU which is then limiting fuel to the injector`s to stop engine damage due to overhaeting :confused: ie it thinks it`s over 120 degree`s for example and if max revs allowed by ECU would blow the motor so it limits the revs and puts you into "get you home mode" so you don`t wreck the engine

Hope you understand what i mean :D

I have checked the flap in the throttle body! Nothing wrong there shuts/opens perfectly.
Yes, i understand what you mean, it was a good explanation.
Correct me if i am wrong:
The throttle potentiometer is the thing that senses how much the throttle flap opens/closes...and tells the ECU.

Great! now i have som things to start investigating :)
 
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AlfaStoffe said:
The same time i added some carb cleanar direktly to the air intake! Voooops The engine acted normal for 2-3seconds...
So my guess is that the engine stops at 2800rpm because it gets to much air/or to little petrol/gasoline...
Fuel pump or fuel filter?

wrinx
 
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wrinx said:
Fuel pump or fuel filter?

wrinx
But the problem appears when the engine gets up in work-temperature (90C)
Wouldnt it have the problem no matter engine temperatur if it is the fuelpump or filter?
 
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Have you checked to make sure the variator or its magenetic actuator is working properly ???
You say it only happens when the engine is hot ??? So it's ok when cold then ??? If so, then I would suspect one of the temp sensors then.
 
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marlon said:
Have you checked to make sure the variator or its magenetic actuator is working properly ???
You say it only happens when the engine is hot ??? So it's ok when cold then ??? If so, then I would suspect one of the temp sensors then.

Yes! before the engine reach 90 degrees celsius, it runs perfect. But when it reaches 90c it wont rev more than 2800rpm. The symptom is just like it hits the red marks on the rpm-meter. (rev-stop?) Dont know what its called.. :)
 
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Discussion Starter #16
where is the temp sensors located, i´m all new in 155 tech. This is the first 155 so i have no experience yet, or no workshop maual yet.
 

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The temp sensor i believe on yours for the ECU is in the Thermostat housing

The one for the gauge is in the back of the head near the thermostat thats if yours is an 8 valve

I think they are in a similar place on the 16valvers as well
 
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I had a similar problem on my 16 valve 146.

The car felt like the limiter was kicking in at 2,800 and was badly mis-firing
It was a very simple problem to fix.
I had power-washed the car and water had found its way into the SparkPlug Wells. The car would run perfectly until it reached 90 degrees C.

Then the trapped water would vapourise and get into the Spark Plug Lead Connections, causing some of the Spark plugs not to fire.

This can be easily checked and fixed, by removing the TS Spark Plug Cover and using a Torch check for moisture or liquid in each of the 8 Spark plug wells.
Remove the water with a compressed Air gun or by syphoning or syringing it out.

The same problem happened again 4 months later after I had been away in the States for a month.
This time I found out that Dad thoughtly had thrown buckets of water over the bonnet to get rid of the acidic 'Bird !!!!' that had kept falling on it.
The water once again had built up in the Spark Plug Wells. Easy to fix knowing what the problem was.

Good Luck in fixing the problem.
 

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As a guess it could also be the timing sensor. Sometimes they quit, when they get warm - just an idea... :p

amir
 
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Finally!!!

The problem is gone ooolala :)

It was the sensor (i dont know what it´s called) Its mounted on the left side of the engine, its measuring the "crankshaft wheel"(?).
It was FULL of water hoho. Took it apart and made it dry.
Now the car runs perfect! It runs like a healthy 1.8 all the way, and at 5000rpm it start pushing even more, all the way to the revstop. Nice :)
Is this normal or has something been done with the camshafts perhaps.

/Krille

Sweden
 
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