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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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I expect they need to be pushed and wound at the same time with a caliper windback tool.
 

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Yep, you deffo need a caliper wind back tool .
Because they are disc brakes, they have to have self adjustment for the handbrake, and that is done by the caliper winding forward whilst the pads wear.
 

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I don't find the handbrake on my 155 works very well anyway even when they are wound back properly!!:lol:
 

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Halfrauds keep the windback tool , made by Laser , and is £20.99 .
It's as well to give everything (except pads & discs ) a good dose of WD40 or similar the day before , and don't forget the front/rear compensator .
 

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I might well be tempting fate here....
but now I've got some half-decent fluid in , the compensator freed & adjusted , and the slack taken out of the handbrake cables , I have got good brakes !!


*awaits something ghastly*
 

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Halfrauds keep the windback tool , made by Laser , and is £20.99 .
I got the same one for my 156 and did all the discs & pads a couple of weeks ago.
The tool made the job so much easier. It saves so much time and stress. The job can be done without it, but will take a lot longer and isn't worth the stress in my opinion.
Get the tool and have an easy life. :)
 

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Aye! Loosen off the handbrake cable by undoing the nut under the handle (insise the gaiter, in the cabin).

With the top off the brake fluid reservoir, wind back the caliper pistons just enough to get the new pads on. This will make the brake fluid level rise, so make sure it doesn't spill out over the top of the reservoir (or use a rag to soak it up).

Check/adjust the brake balance valve under the n/s rear passenger seat (underneath but outside the car). The spring sometimes rusts "stretched" so you lose the effect it's supposed to provide.

Bleed the rear brakes until new fluid comes out.

Re-adjust the handbrake cable.


Ralf S.
 

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I didn't touch the handbrake adjuster on mine.
Worked fine before and after.
 

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I dunno moosh.. but when they build the car in the first place they adjust the brakes first and tighten the handbrake adjuster last, so there may be a reason for it.

Ralf S.
 

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I think the official method has you removing the handbrake cable from the caliper and to do that you need to loosen it first.
I didn't remove the cable.
Worked fine on my 156. Can't see the 155 calipers being much different.
 

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My 2€...

I always remove the cable from the calliper end before replacing pads/discs. Main issue is to make sure the cables are free & easy to move, and that the actuating lever on the calliper is also free to move and that it is all the way back on the end stop before you try anything. Put new pads/discs on, then pump brakes repeatedly (I usually got for at least 20 times) until footbrake is good. At this point, I usually test the handbrake operation on each wheel in turn, by moving the actuating lever by hand - it should bite straight away. Last step is to put the cables back on the callipers. Can be fiddly if you don't undo the adjuster nut by the lever but sometimes it's OK. The vital thing is that by the end of it all, the handbrake actuating levers on the callipers need to be hard against the end stops with the handbrake off. If they aren't, the self-adjuster WILL let you down and you'll end up with a non-existent handbrake.

Apart from the annual joy of a frozen cable each winter, the handbrake on mine holds the car brilliantly. Passes MOT brake test easily.

Sounds a faff...but it's not really. If you need new cables to allow the actuating arms to return fully...get them. Stronger springs on the arms would have been a good idea, and I've thought about adding extra springs before now, but it will work fine with OEM bits as long as you are thorough. Avoid cheap pattern-part cables too.

...that was more like $50 worth :eek:
 

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:confused: attempted to replace the rear dics & pads yesterday, but failed....
what I need to know is ..does the caliper piston wind back in or should it push back in?
If it's push in, then I'm pretty sure that the calip[er has seized.
If it winds in, then will I need a special tool or not.?

Also. I'm in a dilema about whether to throw anymore money at my 155. MOT coming up in 5 weeks and I know it needs a front pipe, 2 tyres, the rear brakes as mentioned plus anyting else that they happen to find, so potentially £500+, last year cost roughly the same. Do I give it up and buy a another car (with finance but not brand new) or do I keep on emptying my bank account every 6 months or so????:confused: :confused:
Keep the car. The things you have identified are all consumables which any car needs doing at some point.
 
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