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Discussion Starter #41
and no thats not normal AT ALL
Did you ever use the cg clutch in the end then? Unlucky with not being able to use it!

Ah okay thats not what I was hoping to hear... Now to find out if it is the differential or the gearbox which is faulty, hopefully the latter I quite like the LSD! I may take the diff off and see if anything has went obviously wrong inside
 

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The diff will move like that because you haven't got the driveshaft seal housings fitted. It is these which the diff stops against. With the driveshaft seal covers fitted there should be 0.12-0.16mm, you can check this with plastigauge.
 

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the whole clutch pqackage is still collecting dust in my basement somewhere. I do remember the the pressure plate was coloured gold.
 

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The diff will move like that because you haven't got the driveshaft seal housings fitted. It is these which the diff stops against. With the driveshaft seal covers fitted there should be 0.12-0.16mm, you can check this with plastigauge.
the seals dont get knocked out?
 

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The driveshaft seal carriers are what holds the outer races of the diff bearings in the correct place, that's what I mean. Its knocking side to side in your video because the outer races of your diff bearings have been pushed out, there's nothing to hold them in place as the driveshaft seal carriers have been removed. If you bolt the seal carriers back on there should only be 0.12-0.16mm clearance so you shouldn't notice any end float. Do you have a shim, it should be at the bell-housing side?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The driveshaft seal carriers are what holds the outer races of the diff bearings in the correct place, that's what I mean. Its knocking side to side in your video because the outer races of your diff bearings have been pushed out, there's nothing to hold them in place as the driveshaft seal carriers have been removed. If you bolt the seal carriers back on there should only be 0.12-0.16mm clearance so you shouldn't notice any end float. Do you have a shim, it should be at the bell-housing side?
Ah okay that makes sense its held in place one the cups are on. I don't have a plastiguage to check but there is no movement once those cups are in. Yes I seen a shim, very thin and it was at the driver side / os of the box though? This wouldn't cause clearance issues though would it?

You wouldn't happen to know if the flywheel is in spec, as in if its too thick or too thin?

I took the diff out before I seen your replies, all looked well inside anyways.
 

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Ah okay that makes sense its held in place one the cups are on. I don't have a plastiguage to check but there is no movement once those cups are in. Yes I seen a shim, very thin and it was at the driver side / os of the box though? This wouldn't cause clearance issues though would it?

You wouldn't happen to know if the flywheel is in spec, as in if its too thick or too thin?

I took the diff out before I seen your replies, all looked well inside anyways.
Yes O/S of the car is correct. I don't have another flywheel to measure to compare but I don't see why it wouldn't be correct unless it has been machined wrong and it hasn't been machined since it was first made has it?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Yes O/S of the car is correct. I don't have another flywheel to measure to compare but I don't see why it wouldn't be correct unless it has been machined wrong and it hasn't been machined since it was first made has it?
No I see what you mean why would it fail now I'm not sure. The mechanic at my local alfa garage said he had a guy with a similar issue, changed the clutch and wouldn't clear as it turned out the clutch / flywheel had been updated at some point to where the new clutch would not work with the old flywheel was just wondering if maybe the same had happened with me.

My dad has a 147 as well and with everything going on and him not going to work, I'm going to steal his gearbox and see if the clutch clears with it. I'm almost certain the clutch is at fault though...

Thanks again for the help though guys will try get the gearbox out the other car next week and try it
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I'm in the process of removing the box from my dad's car to try in mine, having trouble with removing the driveshaft cups. The os I can't get the bearing out its seat (the bit between box and hub). The ns I can't get the cup out the box.

I've had a look on here and I've got the bolts out and slight play back and fourth but won't come out. Just broke (the handle) off my breaker bar and bent it trying to prise against. Tried rope round the cup and pulling but can't get enough force to pull it. Any ideas on getting the cups out?
 

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On the O/S, a hammer and punch on the bearing itself while someone else is pulling might do it. Might damage the bearing though. I've had success before prising between the driveshaft carrier and the loose 3-bolt flange which is on the driveshaft but it sounds like you've already tried that. On the N/S, two pry bars, one either side of the cup, prying together. One pry bar puts side load on the cup, so two works much better. If you get the O/S shaft out first, you can often tap the N/S cup out with a long, thin-shafted flat head screwdriver coming through from the O/S driveshaft hole, straight through the middle of the diff, unless you have a Quaife fitted.
 
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