Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
just had two new struts two new top wishbone put on my car because i had a knocking noise in the passenger side when going over speed bumps but its still there cat work out what it can it be need same advice ???:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,298 Posts
Anti roll bar links? Lower wishbones? Anti-roll bar bushes? Steering rack track rod ends? Steering rack? Undertray? Exhaust? Engine mountings?

As you can see the possibilities are numerous but I'd start with the a/r bar links as they are cheapest and usually the most likely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
is it more of a dong noise that you can feel through the floor if so i would say arb bushes i had this on mine as gazza said the links are cheap easy to change and they go often
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,701 Posts
I've had various sources of knocking on mine.

First it was the drop links (worn bushes) and more recently all the exhaust fixings appear to have failed (welded joints and rubber hangers).

Seems OK at the moment. Just waiting for the next knock now. In the meantime I'm left with the squeaky seats and dash! ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
is it more of a dong noise that you can feel through the floor if so i would say arb bushes i had this on mine as gazza said the links are cheap easy to change and they go often
more of a dong sound when going over small bumps at like 20mph from the left front. mate said it might be a drive shaft kocking is that comon ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
i had exactly the same problem but on the drivers side. it was quite a large knocking noise which happenend on speed bumps and large potholes. the garage said it was the shocker so they replaced it and the noise went. maybe have a look into that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,298 Posts
are thay easy to change the anti-roll bar links?
Fairly. Depends whether they decide to be nice. The original type have a splined bolt which you need to fit a torx key into to prevent it turning as you undo the nylok nut. In 4 out of 5 cases, this rounds off so you can't undo it. So the solution is usually to cut the old one off (hacksaw, nut-splitter, angle-grinder!) and then put the new one on.

It's easier to get both wheels up as then you don't have the tension on the anti-roll bar. Put the bottom ends on the roll bar first, then pull the tops into place and loosely attach the nuts to hold them to the strut mounting. Then torque them up as best you can.

Originals are still the spline type and MAY have two different bolt threads!! They are sold without nuts as well. Pattern parts usually come with nuts and the ones I had, had flats on the side of the ball joint to hold it to tighten/untighten. But as the lasted less that 2 years, I went for proper Alfa links the last time (from Shop4Parts -- ask nicely!) and when to my local dealer for a selection of nuts! (just over two years now).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Fairly. Depends whether they decide to be nice. The original type have a splined bolt which you need to fit a torx key into to prevent it turning as you undo the nylok nut. In 4 out of 5 cases, this rounds off so you can't undo it. So the solution is usually to cut the old one off (hacksaw, nut-splitter, angle-grinder!) and then put the new one on.

It's easier to get both wheels up as then you don't have the tension on the anti-roll bar. Put the bottom ends on the roll bar first, then pull the tops into place and loosely attach the nuts to hold them to the strut mounting. Then torque them up as best you can.

Originals are still the spline type and MAY have two different bolt threads!! They are sold without nuts as well. Pattern parts usually come with nuts and the ones I had, had flats on the side of the ball joint to hold it to tighten/untighten. But as the lasted less that 2 years, I went for proper Alfa links the last time (from Shop4Parts -- ask nicely!) and when to my local dealer for a selection of nuts! (just over two years now).
going to change them and il let you now how it went thanks for the help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
I'd go with drop links too as I had virtually the same symptoms as you describe and after replaicing at the weekend the knock has gone. The ones I took off only lasted 6 months!!! They are only about £15 or so and it's normally a 15 min job per side or so if they aren't stuck solid as Gazza describes. It's worth having a long screw driver or bar to lever the ARB up & down to get the holes lined up though when fitting the drop link.

Cheers,

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
im glad to say after all that it was the anti-roll bar bushes. knocking noise has gone the car feels more solid to. thanks for the help guys:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Knocking sort of popping noise

Dear All,

I have some sort of noise on my 147 2ltr that occurs either with you begin to move (either forward or reverse) or it happens when you accelerate and then lift off in the same gear (any gear but only at lower speeds up to about 40mph) or say if you change from 3rd to 2nd while slowing and let the clutch out.

I'm thinking clutch or release bearings, however after reeading several bloggs on here, it seems as if bushes, and steering parts are common problems.

I have also noticed that theres a exhaust bracket missing from the middle section, however it seems solid with not alot of play to me.

Any thoughts and advice would be gratefully appreciated.

Cheers

Mike
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top