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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I read several posts prior to doing my brakes and found some useful posts but none with photos. So here is my contribution with photos which someone may find useful.

Before you start ensure you have at least...

Tools:

sockets: 12mm, 17mm and 19mm (no you dont need a 36mm socket as I originally thought!)
big flat screwdriver
pliers
large hammer
claw hammer (or large grips)
string (or light rope) about 4 foot.


Take wheel off.

Replacing the pads -
1. using your big screwdriver on the caliper push the piston back into the cylinder (whilst still on the car).
2. remove the spring (see blue arrow on photo) with your pliers

3. remove the caliper and tie up out the way with your string
4. ensure the caliper will float (see green arrows on photo) it should move freely up and down the shafts, if not then you must free them off.
5. fit new pads and use a folded piece of cardboard to keep them in place.

6. Remove the retaining bolt (12mm bolt head) on the disc, then hit the old disc with your large hammer several times all around the edges and it will come off (no need for a puller as the old disc is scrap). It will eventually come off.


7. replace the disc and caliper
8. replace the spring (see blue arrow on photo) with a claw hammer - claw-end (or grips)

Easiest to do last as the spring is fiddly and quite strong.


Here is the finished job:

EDIT: note stage is not complete! Make you you complete it...



Hope that helps someone...

Dave
 

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That's a nice simple straightforward guide with a few useful pics.
I'm sure it will be appreciated by many.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No pigs in the car yet! (no squeals, the paint on the back of the pads does a similar job as copper grease).

I forgot to mention - with new discs ensure you clean the surfaces with a solvent to remove the grease (added by manufacturer to stop rust).
 

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No pigs in the car yet! (no squeals, the paint on the back of the pads does a similar job as copper grease).

I forgot to mention - with new discs ensure you clean the surfaces with a solvent to remove the grease (added by manufacturer to stop rust).
you will notice the squeals shortly !!!!
 

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Most modern pads come with an anti squeal layer anyway these days (although not the DS 2500's)
 

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The spring goes back with a cleverly placed screwdriver ... the only thing I use a hammer for is to push the pistons back with the wooden HANDLE ... ;)

Where's the 7mm allen key or hex socket to remove the calipers? :confused:

BTW: There's a how-to on my website which also includes changing the rear pads, front and rear discs and bleeding tips. Written for 156 but same for 147 and GT. Link in my signature below ... :)
 

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Where's the 7mm allen key or hex socket to remove the calipers? ...
Was just about to say that. 7mm Allen key or 'caliper' key also needed! :)

Axle stands are a must for safety.

Also when replacing the retaining bolt, remember it is just that. Over-tighten and this bolt will snap (very easily). I found out the hard way! ;)
 

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Always forget the smiley's ... ;)

Not having a go, but someone else reading the steps could get a bit confused when the caliper wouldn't come off, etc. :confused:
 
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^^Smileys are a must :lol:

I get your point Gazza - tis why I asked about the spring on the 'finished' pic

Also been back and added another :D :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
...7mm Allen key or 'caliper' key also needed
NO 7mm allen key required!:rolleyes:

Axle stands are a must for safety.
If you check Gazza's photos you will see he used the axle stand to prop the caliper on. The removed wheel was used to chock the car to save his legs getting crushed in case the jack failed:eek:



{forum setup: Gazza, I assume you have higher-rights on the forum as I was not able to add the photos inline. BB IMAG code not enabled for me}
 

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"3. remove the caliper and tie up out the way with your string"

how did you remove the caliper?
 
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