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Discussion Starter #1
It's an 02 146 1.6 TS. Changed the thermostat about a month ago, and at the time noticed the coolant in the header tank was low before I changed the thermostat, anyway, bled, refilled, all hunky dory. Went to check the oil yesterday and it was right down on the min mark, haven't refilled it as of yet as coolant aint the cheapest of stuff, can't find any trace of a leak (not HG either), pressurises fine etc. Any suggestions on what/where it could be?

My second is gear change, it seems to have lost its elasticity for want of a better word, getting out of 4th into 3rd for example is a mare it take a bit of moving the stick to and throw to get it to engage. I read somewhere a while ago that the selector plate can sometimes go on these, is it liable to be this? Or is it something that can just be greased up, or is it something else, clutch is fine, no noises once its in, and it doesn't do it all the time!

Thanks guys!
 

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You can change the selector plate, but you can clean it up for a short term fix.

Regarding coolant, no leaks on any of the hoses? Hose clamps all tight?
 

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Well if you think coolant is expensive then imagine the price of installing a new head gasket,which will be the end result if the car overheats due to lack of coolant,so pleeeease add up the coolant!:cool:
A defect bearing in the waterpump is an expensive fault that typically gives up a whining , most clearly heard at low rpm ( idle) at the right side of the engine where the covers for cambelt are.Expensive because the cambelt drives the waterpump,the tension of the cambelt is obtained by numerous other lovely spareparts (cambelt tensioner/rollers) and you need special tools to fix it.:)
remove the engine protective plate under the car let it run until pressure is on the cooling system,stop engine place any cardbord ,paper or else under the car look for water after 10 min while you take a cup off coffe.
Plan B go to dealer that can apply pressure to coolersystem and check for headgasket problem
Pray that co2 is not present in the header tank = blown head gasket :(
William Lütken
 

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Because the rate of coolant loss is slow I'm not too worried about dealing with it striaght away (it's the missus car only goes to the shops and dropping the kids off at school) can't see any leaks anywhere, but the carboard trick is a good idea. Not the water pump, was done with the cambelt 5k ago, no untoward noises from it either. Think I'll nip down the stealers tomorrow and order a selector plate in! Fingers crossed I find where this leak is though!
 

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The most likely thing to go wrong is always the most likely thing to go wrong.

First top the beast up on Sunday morning, when it's been sitting cold all night. That's your true level.

If it drops over a week or two (depending on how much it's used) then it's either getting burnt (Head gasket) or it's leaking somewhere.

Leaks is the most likely... so check the hoses. If you jack the front of the car up you'll be able to get your moosh in there next to the radiatore... Any leaks will be more visible from below. Look for streaks of "white" or "pink" crustiness of dried coolant coming from the ends of the hoses and running down hill. If you have Jubilee clips, give them a 1/4 turn of tightning.

If it's been dry, so much the better, since any wetness you see in there may be coolant.

Check the plate the radiator sits on. If it's minging, wet and rusty that may be because the radiatore is leaking. Check the rad for wetness and also the streak marks of dried coolant. If your rad' looks remotely manky where the core meets the pillars (and you don't need the car that week) give it a good rattle and see if it collapses and coolant runs out of the joints... (new rad' time) :eek:

If you can't see any leaks in the engine bay.... have a peek indoors. Feel the carpet under the heater matrix. Do they have a green or more obvious pink tinge...? Are they damp? Could be a leaky heater/connector/something.

Now you can change the cap on the expansion tank in case it's not doing a good job... but you can normally tell since you get a coolant stain on the bonnet liner just above it.. Still.. it's a few quid and may be worth a punt if it looks remotely moist.

If you have no leaks, stains, wet patches or anything... then it can only be going into the motore. It's probably not a major leak so potentially not much to worry about (my sister's Renoort Megane has been knocking back the pink stuff for years) but next time you have a cam-belt change it may be worth just going a bit further and sticking a new HG in there at the same time.

Just top the level up at a frequency that keeps it around half-way. Sometimes having less coolant in there makes it less likely to disappear... but don't run it down to Minimum too often...

Ralf S.
 

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My money is on the rad ...

When mine started to go I couldn't find a leak anywhere. Turns out it was pin holes and not leaking in a way you can see, but the coolant was escaping under pressure.
 

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Well, turned out to be the water pump, seal had failed and the bearings were on there last legs! Caught it in the nick of time, was under the impression it had been changed when the cambelt was done last January, apparently not! Just the slack gear change left to sort!
 

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Well, turned out to be the water pump, seal had failed and the bearings were on there last legs! Caught it in the nick of time, was under the impression it had been changed when the cambelt was done last January, apparently not! Just the slack gear change left to sort!
I am invincible!:cheese:
Actually I've had three problems at the same time :cry:on the JTS engine : Radiator + waterpump (bearing worn,terrible whining sound at idle,and coolant leaking under pressure) and finally that damned plastic thing in front of the head of the engine , there is a tiny leak at the gasket and the car has to run for 5 minutes only for any coolant to be seen if it runs longer than that,the exhaust manifold gets so hot, that the coolant evaporates just leaving a faint smell of hot coolant.
My friend (AR 156 2,0 TS SW ) had a complete breakdown of his waterpump axel ,water pouring out but the cambelt didn't slip!!!!!:wow:just at idle in front of his house
H
 

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Thing is I dismissed the water pump, as I couldn't hear any untoward noises, but then turning the waterpump by hand and it makes a right racket! Ah well, caught it, an no busted engine so I'm happy enough!
 

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My friend (AR 156 2,0 TS SW ) had a complete breakdown of his waterpump axel ,water pouring out but the cambelt didn't slip!!!!!:wow:just at idle in front of his house
Cambelt is toothed, so it won't slip .. :confused:
 

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Cambelt is toothed, so it won't slip .. :confused:
The waterpump axel bearing broke enough for the car to loose a lot of coolant in the driveway,enough for the driver to stop the engine at once,he had the car towed away, if the cambelt looses enough tension due to serios breakedown of the waterpump,believe me the risk of having a cambelt failure is imminent.:) Or the waterpump looses the belt due to angeld axel.
Right now my biggest problem is what to do with my new tools for my own cambelt and balancebelt changing.Totally alfa delivered the tool 6 weeks after I ordered (and payed them 19/ december) them and finally I did'nt have the nerve to wait more and I choose to send my car to a garage :cry:
So I had to pay for the tools and the parts and the garage :cheese:
Asked Gary at totallyalfa if he wants my tools , and return my money :)

William Lütken
 
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