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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So as the title says it would appear the car no longer has a turbo. Previously I could rev the engine whilst stationary and would hear a turbo whooshing noise. I've been doing research on here by searching other threads and I'm stumped. The car drives fine but down on power. There is no black smoke. I drove for 2 hours straight without issue. And it wasn't until I raised the revs high just before home that it triggered the engine management light.
When plugging in a diagnostic I get the following message.
Gadget Font Material property Display device Technology

The car has had a map on it for the past 10 years and I've never seen this error before.
I've disconnected the electrical connection from the egr but not removed and inspected it (this didn't make a difference).
I did clean it about 2/3 months ago and it's been working fine until the weekend.
I also removed the vacuum hose from the turbo actuator and placed my finger on the end. Should I feel vacuum? As there wasn't any.

Also I couldn't move the actuator with my fingers I believe I should be able to.
But I didn't really put much effort into that as it's freezing out.

Where should I focus my efforts to get this fixed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh to add to this I have been having some weirdness just before Xmas. A couple of times I have started the car and gone to drive off. All appeared fine. Low revs around the estate, I then pull into the main road and the car has no power above 1500-2000 revs. It just wants to die. I then had to sit with my foot flat on the floor for like 20 seconds for the revs to gradually build. Then they eventually passed 2000rpm and it revved to the red line (I'm guessing cleaning something out) and then it ran fine from then on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yup. Check the vanes and take it easy, that error preceded my big bang. There’s no black smoke because it is probably over-boosting, that will shorten its lifespan. Search this forum for tips on cleaning the vanes or replacement.
Thanks both, I'll focus on looking at the turbo and getting that cleaned and unstuck.

Definitely don't want the engine detonating so I will take it easy too.
 

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I'm surprised there's not a sticky for vacuum pressure measured in various conditions and against actuator rod stroke length for the number of times this comes up. Even although it is a calibrated thing and allowing for variances, base settings should be that variable.
 

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Lots of possible causes, not all disastrous. Lack of vacuum at the skinny actuator hose is very often because there's a split or crack, less often the vacuum solenoid is cattled.

Not sure I believe that though. P0238 high sounds like overboosting I had due to corroded and sticking VGT. You may want to compare boost required and actual boost, but you'll probably need Multiecuscan for that.

Also check the MAP sensor in the inlet plenum isn't coked up.
 

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Oh to add to this I have been having some weirdness just before Xmas. A couple of times I have started the car and gone to drive off. All appeared fine. Low revs around the estate, I then pull into the main road and the car has no power above 1500-2000 revs. It just wants to die. I then had to sit with my foot flat on the floor for like 20 seconds for the revs to gradually build. Then they eventually passed 2000rpm and it revved to the red line (I'm guessing cleaning something out) and then it ran fine from then on.
I can simulate that by holding the anti-shudder valve in the inlet manifold almost closed (I fitted a ‘choke’ cable to let me do it from the driver’s seat). If I close the valve to a point where there is about 20 inches of mercury vacuum in the manifold the engine will no longer rev above 1500rpm or so. In your case then it might be oil and soot deposits (from the breather and egr systems) around the valve which is causing it to stick almost closed. If the rest of the manifold is also choked that can contribute to over-boost. If you take the top boost hose off the manifold you should be able to see what state it’s in; you can also close the valve by hand to check its operation, the return spring should open it promptly.
 
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