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Discussion Starter #1
147 cambelt needs doing. Wont be a specialist so anything I need to mention to the grease monkey?

belt and water pump to order....
 

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Easy job if you know what you're doing. I do them without the lock set, but normal machy would need the lock set. If they do not have a lockset, don't use them :)

You need to also do the balancer belt and tensioners while there, get uprated cambelt tensioner (not the plastic one) water pump assists in tensioning the belt, so they need to make sure they see the exact position the waterpump came out of when replacing it.

Get a good quality belt also, don't settle for cheap belts as they will cost you in roofnailed valves!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
is there an faq/how to? the lad will do it for £30, and done hundreds of cambelts before
 

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is there an faq/how to? the lad will do it for £30, and done hundreds of cambelts before
The BIG question is has he done alfa before? it could cost you £30 now, but could cost loads more in future if done wrong.

The engine is an engine, but the cams do not have a keyway keeping them in place like your regular motors, so if you do not lock the cams and get the timing right OR worst get too much slack on the belt, you'll end up with bad results. The balancer belt also goes on one way only. :)

How to is basically just to get the exact cam position, TDC on the crank and then fitting the belt, losen the bolts to tension up between cams and crank, all the remaining slack should only go to the side where the tensioner is so it will keep a specific tension.
Belt should not be too tight, nor be to loose. Basically allow for 90 degree turn max on the long side, less than 90 is too tight, more than 90 is too lose.

after that the balancer belt goes on. the belt has markings so does the guide pully and balancer shaft, they need to lineup each one to the correct place, turning the belt other way round will confuse you. incorrect balancer setup will lead to a very shaky engine. same thing here, the tension needs to be perfect. Too loose or too tight and it comes of or snaps it will end up takeing the cam belt with it and create spare engine parts for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The BIG question is has he done alfa before? it could cost you £30 now, but could cost loads more in future if done wrong.

The engine is an engine, but the cams do not have a keyway keeping them in place like your regular motors, so if you do not lock the cams and get the timing right OR worst get too much slack on the belt, you'll end up with bad results. The balancer belt also goes on one way only. :)

How to is basically just to get the exact cam position, TDC on the crank and then fitting the belt, losen the bolts to tension up between cams and crank, all the remaining slack should only go to the side where the tensioner is so it will keep a specific tension.
Belt should not be too tight, nor be to loose. Basically allow for 90 degree turn max on the long side, less than 90 is too tight, more than 90 is too lose.

after that the balancer belt goes on. the belt has markings so does the guide pully and balancer shaft, they need to lineup each one to the correct place, turning the belt other way round will confuse you. incorrect balancer setup will lead to a very shaky engine. same thing here, the tension needs to be perfect. Too loose or too tight and it comes of or snaps it will end up takeing the cam belt with it and create spare engine parts for you.
Am I right in saying its the vauxhall engine?
 

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Think everyone is assuming you have a Twinspark engine. Rather than the JTD variant. Which is different?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
agh wheres my sig gone??

its the 147 1.9jtd 140 16v 04 plate :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so, back to this, and a bit of a bumpy, can you give me a shopping list?

Ill go buy the bits and pass onto the mechanic, i always source cheaper
Thanks
 

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The BIG question is has he done alfa before? it could cost you £30 now, but could cost loads more in future if done wrong.

The engine is an engine, but the cams do not have a keyway keeping them in place like your regular motors, so if you do not lock the cams and get the timing right OR worst get too much slack on the belt, you'll end up with bad results. The balancer belt also goes on one way only. :)

How to is basically just to get the exact cam position, TDC on the crank and then fitting the belt, losen the bolts to tension up between cams and crank, all the remaining slack should only go to the side where the tensioner is so it will keep a specific tension.
Belt should not be too tight, nor be to loose. Basically allow for 90 degree turn max on the long side, less than 90 is too tight, more than 90 is too lose.

after that the balancer belt goes on. the belt has markings so does the guide pully and balancer shaft, they need to lineup each one to the correct place, turning the belt other way round will confuse you. incorrect balancer setup will lead to a very shaky engine. same thing here, the tension needs to be perfect. Too loose or too tight and it comes of or snaps it will end up takeing the cam belt with it and create spare engine parts for you.
i appreciate your concern, but if he's done a timing belt before they're all much of a muchness. Also, it has a tensioner AND a pin to guide you to do the tension correctly, so this 90 degree stuff while useful as a rough guide is NOT good enough. The 1.9 16V unit is the easiest to work on and doesn't require any locking tools. See here:

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-and-gt/400265-147-jtdm-water-pump-to-change-or-not.html#post5589009

I could probably do it in 2-3 hours so £30 is bloody good i'd say

[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok, so to buy

cambelt,
tensioners,
waterpump
 

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might as well change the aux belt while you're there, it's probably no more than a tenner and is probably the hardest part of the job. coolant and and distilled water and you'll need one of the alfa clip removal tools OR some replacement jubilee clips for the rad hose.

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My only comment is that £30 is what you normally pay to get a couple of headlamp bulbs changed. I used to charge £30 to do cambelts on mk5 cortinas (easy peasy) 20 years ago. I've only done clutch related work since then so I can't directly compare, but it wouldn't be £30!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yep, this guy works around mk, he's available 24/7, young lad, will come out anywhere anytime to help and charges what he sees fit - 15 quid an hour or less as time goes on. He couldnt beleive what people charge in garages today so hes mopping up the business for half the price. Ive got hime lined up to do this, the clutch for £75 .. he did my oil change for £15, a mates alternator for £20, cheers!
 

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yep, this guy works around mk, he's available 24/7, young lad, will come out anywhere anytime to help and charges what he sees fit - 15 quid an hour or less as time goes on. He couldnt beleive what people charge in garages today so hes mopping up the business for half the price. Ive got hime lined up to do this, the clutch for £75 .. he did my oil change for £15, a mates alternator for £20, cheers!
not that i'm supporting the high prices, but a fella just doing the rounds and a garage with a premises have very different overheads :)

[email protected]
 

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ok, so to buy

cambelt,
tensioners,
waterpump
Cambelt kit, which contains a cambelt, a tensioner and an idler bearing. Go for genuine Alfa, and order it to your chassis number as there are two different length belts.

Also a waterpump, coolant and distilled water.
 

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not that i'm supporting the high prices, but a fella just doing the rounds and a garage with a premises have very different overheads :)

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yup and an accountant and pays tax

if he does clutch for 75 get it done.....he wont charge 75 to next person i can gaurentee that! mind you clutch and oil is still gonna be over £200

what you pay for with a garage is not just rip of prices....they are responsible for the work they do.......if timing belt is done wrong then your engine is gonna die......no ifs no buts, then your looking at a hell of a bill.....which id guess he wouldnt be footing
 
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