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Electrical :

JTS Diagnostic Logs



ECU Reset - It's A Miracle Cure !!!!




Reducing alarm beep volume 147


HOW TO INSTALL AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT - a guide for 147, 156, and GT


156 side light bulb change


GT headlight bulb replacement



Fixing a buzzing headlamp adjuster (147/GT)


Parking Lights staying on fault - easy fix


Air bag light fix


Reverse Light Switch Wiring Repair


Heated seat switches... Alternative fix


GT Clutch/Cruise Control switch FIXED


Fixing the boot latch microswitches - 147 / GT boot light does not work.



Quick fix for non-working boot light alfa 147 / GT

Boot lock microswitch help - photo? Post 8 is the same for the 147/GT


156.net saved thread - Radio power feeds guide - Feb 2008


Strange electrical faults fixed


Which Battery for GT


Reducing alarm beep volume 147


Fixing 147 boot actuator



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Engine :

How to change the EGR valve

How to fix the EGR Valve

How to fix the EGR Valve #2

Sensor Locations

How to change a thermostat on a twinspark

How to change the alternator belt and tensioner on a 2.4 JTD 10v engine

How to change the alternator belt and tensioner on a 2.4 JTD 10v engine - alternative thread

Auxillary Belt and Tensioners

How to remove/replace the JTD inlet manifold.

2.0TS manifold switching anyone?

A few subtle JTS improvements you could make


GT air con drain pipe location - help!


Gear shift adjustment


Variator solenoid fiy repair guide


JTD/JTDM MCSF & other problems FIX


My solution on Alfa 156 idle problem






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Servicing :


How to do the 42,000 Service on a GT JTD


How to change air filter 2.4 JTD 10V 150


Where to Put Axle Stands - Photo?





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GT 2.0 JTS
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New info links

Please post below links to threads you would like adding to this sticky.

If possible please indicate if it covers the 147, 156, GT models or specific to one.
 

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JTS problems solved?

The JTS has long been known as a problem child. Inlet carbon issue, oil burning and then there are the EML faults.

It needn't be so but it will take a rebuild. I was hoping to address inlet carbon build up without taking my engine apart but in 30k miles, it appears not to have built up carbon again. My tips are don't let it idle, decent fuel and oil.
Combustion gas backwash is greater at lower engine speeds and when running stratified mixture (at less than 1500rpm) carbon particle emissions can be 10x as much as with stoichiometric mixture.
There is a link about carbon build up;
https://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/engines-ts-jts-jtd-andamp-v6/1179179-2-0-jts-inlet-carbon.html#post17440309

That link then links to JTS oil consumption. This is solved with oil drillings in the piston, in the valley for oil control ring and Goetze pistons.
Direct link;
https://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/engines-ts-jts-jtd-andamp-v6/694953-excessive-oil-use-156-2-0-jts.html

Other than that, use V-Power or Ultimate to keep injectors good and avoid phantom O2 sensor/cat fault codes. I changed my wideband sensors at 103k. ACF-50 spray stops O2 sensor multi-plug terminals oxidising.

At some point I'll sort out ignition coil multiplugs but in the meantime, change spark plugs early as the ignition coils are weak.

A good point to note is a JTS remap by Stefan at Squadra Tuning disables the stratified mixture and relaxes fault code thresholds to be more suitable for real world conditions.
 

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Rear spring/damper replacement video

I found a good guide about rear suspension replacement by Italia Autos;

Some other tips:

1. Sometimes using an impact gun on the lower strut bolt helps free it. It can save a lot to effort.

2. Be prepared to use plenty of penetrating fluid. There are better ones than WD40. PlusGas is a good choice as is a graphite impregnated fluid.

3. Leaving the strut top nut in the boot on by 2 or 3 threads prevents the strut dropping out if a prybar is needed to displace the strut.

4. Once the strut is out, a thin wall 22mm socket is needed to fit inside the strut mounting to remove the strut mounting.

5. Often carrying out any work means a rear strut mounting may fail a few months after doing spring/damper replacement. If you don't want to do the job twice, a new mounting makes sense.

6. The rear ARB link may not be save able. I recommend using extra washers or fitting the old nut on top of the new nut but only tight enough to hold it on. This prevents needing to wind the securing nut over corroded exposed threads should subsequent work be needed.

7. Use a wire brush/emery cloth to clean corrosion from exposed bolt shafts. Coating with copper grease before reassembly or Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 after reassembly reduces the chances of things corroding up again should future work be needed (if you live in a climate similar to the American rust belt).
 
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