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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
cloverleaf
posted 18-07-2002 14:37
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Hello everybody,

I am feeling pretty stressed at the moment and I really could do with some advice on my P plate 145 cloverleaf that I bought 1 month ago. I really would appreciate any words of comfort or positivity, about anything!

1. Now the weather is hotter - engine temp approaches 110 C if blasting on the motorway, it does stabilise at just below 100 and cools to below that when on slower roads - the manual says that the temp "may reach the upper values on a hot day" and the warning light does not come on but it does seem hot - I know that I am missing half the fins on my rad and I plan to get a new one asap but the cash is not available at the mo (new variator and suspension....aaah - see below)

I am concerned that I am killing my beutiful engine..........aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah

2. I have noticed that the inside of the front tyres has gone completely (much more on drivers side) and the tyres were only 3 months old. I also got lots of vibration through the steering wheel when i hit 60 then 80.

At the service they noticed that the end of my roll bar had snapped off! The bar is still is in contack with its housing but not pulled in taught.
I have just had the tracking checkked and it was miles out and they say that this would explain the wear , the also said that balancing the wheel would cure the wobble.
My question here is could the knackered roll bar cause the wear?

I have rambled a lot here - sorry - but fixing all this is going to cost about £600- aaaaaaaaaah

Oh that reminds me! - Is it realistic to change the rad myslefy? are there any on line guides.

If any of you reply to this and help me in this dark hour I will be very very grateful and owe you a big favor.

Thanks loads

2. I
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Your 145 should be between 80 and 90 degrees and not much more. Does your fan work, is the guage faulty, are you losing coolant??
 

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AO Member, Sud/Sprint/33 Lounge Winner 09
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Im not being funny, but if half the fins are missing on the rad of course the engine will run hot.If you are worried about damaging your engine i would suggest you dont drive the car until you have a new rad fitted.As regards your extreme tyre wear, broken anti-roll bar and tracking that was miles out, it sounds to me like the car has wacked a curb or something hard at one point.
 

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Good grief man, half the fins gone, and you wonder why the temp is that high when you spank the car on the freeway, really!

The knackered Antiroll bar has nothing to do with the excessive tyre wear, it's probably the camber angle that's shot. That's bad, real bad, as it cannot be adjusted. You are facing either a new strut or lower suspension arm here. Do you have the readings from the workshop, maybe I can interpret them for you.

Now (Said like Bill Cosby does) I'm afraid your car was driven by an Essex girl (hope U are not from Essex) before you bought it. It all sounds like it had a hard time. Take good care of it, or sell it to someone who has the means and money to make a decent car out of it.

Please dont get me wrong here, I'm not trying to dis you or put your car down, but this will cost you, I'm afraid.

All the best

Hoygaard

BTW. there's nothing to it, changing the radiator yourself, there's an earlier post here concerning bleeding the cooling system, you might want to read.
 

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JimiMac

If it's any consolation, I know exactly what your going through. Bought a 146 ti on an N plate just over a month ago and have had to spend alot of money to get a few probs sorted.

Like the guys here are saying you should get that rad fixed as a priority, and check that your fan's kicking in (should do so in the high 90s) and that your not losing coolant. I replaced my thermostat a couple of weekends ago and found that the temp is a little more stable, so you may want to consider that once you checked everything else (my temp gauge was indicating that the coolant was taking in excess of 20 mins to get to operating temp but is now behaving as expected so I don't think it was opening fully, but then again I'm no expert).

Like Hoygaard says, you're going to have to expect to shell out quite a bit if your going to get the car upto scratch. I've spent a grand on various bits already and expect to have to part with in excess of another £500 before the year's out. Think you'll find it's worth it though.

Anyway, you're in the right place to get you through this. I don't think I would have had the balls to buy mine if it wasn't for the support and advice of the Alfisti here .... Good luck.

HOYGAARD - Thanks for your previous advice on the cooling stuff - the level's gradually going down (no leaks !!) and I'm managing to get some more coolant in there now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rapallo, Greg, Hoygaard, and Roma 79 - Thanks very much to you all.

Roma79 - It is nice to know that I am not alone! - I think I will keep going with it!

Rapallo - thanks for the advice - coolant, fan, and thermostat all ok so I am 99% sure it is the rad

Greg - Pretty wise words my man - the only blemish on the entire body work when i bought the car was a graze on the front passenger side of the bumper - I am now beginning to think that this was a result of a bashing....... - Specialists have only pointed out roll bar though so I think the rest of the suspension is ok

Hoygaard - I dont have any readings I am afraid but the specialists did only seem to think that the roll bar was gone - also I had the tracking checked and it was miles out - the garage said that this would be a possible cause for uneven wear. If I did have to have a new strut or arm fitted, how much would I be looking at? I think it is time to make a decision here about the car in general! I must say though that I did have the car assesed by the garage and they said that the rad is due for replacing after 80K and that the car is in A1 condition apart from the roll bar. As you might have gathered, I am pretty fond of alfas but no expert mechanic - is there any place that I can find an "a,b,c" guide to changing the rad.?

Thanks very much to you all for your help - I really appreciate it - if any of you want any help with anything - related to anything at all then do not hesitate to ask.

Cheers
 

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Hi JimiMac.

Changing the rad isn't that much of a hassle wink ;

First remove the front grille, held in place by a couple of bolts on the top, and at the bottom, beneath the headlights its held in place by a couple of plastic retainers, gently pry it of. This should give you access to the two bolts that holds the top of the rad in place. I'm not sure about this, as its been a long time since I saw the engine bay of a 146. But maybe you also have to remove the radiator support beam fitted below the radiator. Having done so, remove the thermocontact connector ( might not be fitted to your car), then remove the collar of the lower hose, yank of the hose and empty the coolant into a container. Measure the amount of coolant, as you need this figure in order to keep track of fluid let out, and fluid replenished. Then remove the upper hose collar and remove the rad. Fitting is the opposite of the dismantling procedure. When it comes to adding new coolant, You might experience a problem with getting in as much coolant as you let out in the first place. Keep the engine running, squeeze the hoses and replenish. Then take it for a spin, keeping an eye on the temp gauge. And over the next few days, monitor the coolant level in the header tank.

As for the excessive tyre wear, if both front wheels have the same amount of wear, the lefthandside maybe a little more, then the tracking is the culprit here. But if the XS wear is limited to only one wheel, something is really wrong. Consider having a four wheel alignment done. Feel free to email me with the results before the workshop start to drain your wallet :eek: .

I dunno if you had the wheels balanced, but the workshop are right, this cures the wobble, unless the rims or tyres are badly damaged.

All the best

Hoygaard
 
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