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Discussion Starter #1
Not been around for a while since joining last year, simply because we've had no problems with the car until now! And that includes taking it to Hungary via Italy and the Alps in the summer. :)

Anyway ... Mrs was driving home this evening, and noticed the engine stumbling when she dropped a gear and went to overtake. No matter, she drove another 6 or 7 miles, then stopped the car for 5 minutes or so. When she got back in, it utterly refused to start. And the CEL stayed on.

It cranks over fine, but the engine will not catch. Occasionally it will threaten to start for a fraction of a second but then give up and continue to crank. The CEL stays on.

Attached AlfaOBD, which tells me there are no faults stored. I left it for about 3 hours and tried to start it again just now ... no dice.

I'm thinking a new crank sensor and fuel filter change are my first port of call.

Is this a sensible guess, do you think?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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could be anything. im guessing a crank sensor would show on scanner if faulty. Could be fuel pressure is low so i'd check the mechanical things like injector leak off and that the glow plugs are not faulty. (these would normally show on a scanner)

Does it start off easy start? Try that first.

If the cel is on then you need a better scanner if its not showing you a fault on yours....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thing is, it did have a P0340 error first time I checked it this evening, which indicates that sensor. So I cleared that and tried to get it again. It hasn't come back, and insists no faults are found ... but the CEL stays on.

I understood AlfaOBD was the best non-pro thing for connecting to the car's sysyem?
 

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Im not familiar with your scanner so couldn't comment but if the cel is on and your scanner cant pick it up then it cant interrogate the module sufficiently. The problem with the fault code you found is that it could have been historic. It may also need to start and run before the code can be stored again.

DPF is common
Injectors and or pump would have the same symptoms

you really need to get it started if possible so i'd try some easy start to try and get it going. Other common problems are egr and blocked intake so these are the kind of things i'd be checking...HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Aye, would be handy to get it started and at least get it home rather than parked up half a mile away!

Will deploy the Easy Start and see what happens next ...

Thanks so far ... :)
 

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Couple of easy DIY checks.
When the ignition key is in, you should hear a feint whine from the back of the cabin (fuel pump in the tank)
Cover the EGR with a bit of drinks can (can cause the issues mentioned)
Unlplug the MAF (that will runa default map).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wee update. Car started first time this morning without Easy Start, no CEL on.

Got it home, switched it off. Wouldn't restart. CEL on. Pulled codes ... 0340 Phase Sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Could someone direct me to where this sensor is located on the engine, so I can get out and check the circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, presumably the one top front left of the engine, beside the pulley cover. I've ordered a new sensor so will report back tomorrow once it's in.
 

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ok thats a legitimate code and is the cam sensor. Not familiar with the engine but im guessing its on the head i think near the front. The crank sensor is at the back of the engine i believe near the starter.

Hopefully its the sensor,but could be wiring or a genuine cam position fault (the timing is out) On the 1.9 engine the waterpump can fail and case the belt to jump if you are unlucky. Heaters running cold is symptomatic of a pump failing.

You could also just take the sensor off and clean it and pop it back on. Sometimes they pick up a bit of grime.

hth
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I changed the sensor for a new one today, and it hasn't solved the problem. The car did start, so I took it out for a run. It was running a bit rough, and wouldn't go above about 3.5k revs.

Also cleaned the EGR valve, and the sensor just along from it.

At a bit of a loss now, and my local garage guy isn't very interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got to suspect a jumpy timing belt, I think. Or wiring, but it all looks healthy enough that I can see.

Off to the garage on Monday.

(Apologies for multiple posts, this bloomin tablet won't let me edit them!) :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Final verdict (I hate reading old threads like this which fizzle out without you knowing what happened!) ... slipped timing belt. May have been the tensioner, or the belt may have stretched. Sensor error was a bit of a red herring.

£400 to change the belt, water pump and pulleys. Now starts on the button and runs better than ever. :)

My garage guy reckons there's absolutely no chance the belt and water pump were changed at 70k (car is now at 97K) as I was informed, and as stated in the service book with a stamp from a place in Dorset which will remain nameless. Fortunately, there's no rocker or valve damage.

Moral = don't believe what you're told when buying a second hand car.
 

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Final verdict (I hate reading old threads like this which fizzle out without you knowing what happened!) ... slipped timing belt. May have been the tensioner, or the belt may have stretched. Sensor error was a bit of a red herring.

£400 to change the belt, water pump and pulleys. Now starts on the button and runs better than ever. :)

My garage guy reckons there's absolutely no chance the belt and water pump were changed at 70k (car is now at 97K) as I was informed, and as stated in the service book with a stamp from a place in Dorset which will remain nameless. Fortunately, there's no rocker or valve damage.

Moral = don't believe what you're told when buying a second hand car.
good news, at least you got it sorted without the engine going pop.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Aye, was quite thankful to only pay out £400 in the end!

Unfortunately, the excess vibration has popped my EGR valve housing off the manifold. One bolt had been somewhat dodgy before I got the car, and I suspect I kind of stripped the thread in another the other day. :) Now it's popped all 4 and the EGR valve is not attached at all, so back in tomorrow to get bigger bolts tapped in.

By the end of the week all should be back to normal. :)
 
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