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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
My V6 has been playing up, holding a high idle (1100-1200rpm) until I stop after the engine has warmed up then the revs take about 10 seconds to step down to the proper idle, I guess this is the lambda going back into closed loop. Interestingingly enough it will not drop the idle if I clutch it whilst rolling along, it only drops when the car comes to a full stop and idles for a few seconds. Then it always drops down immediately to the correct idle for the rest of the journey.

The injector light if intermittently coming on, mostly during slow carpark driving causing plenty of kangerooing as all power is lost for a split second.

The fault code I see is 1 2 1 4 which I do not know as it's not on the list.

Does anyone know what this code is? :confused:

The cat smelt eggy the other night also, (it normally smells sweet).

Done the lambda sensor, and fuse relay check, new air flow meter, idle motor cleaned and bench tested for free movement, new throttle potentiometer fitted recent blue temperature sender fitted and recently checked its calibration against the chart.
 
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p.s. I'm not sure without looking what the engine temp sensor is....water temp sensor perhaps??? But think you may have changed that (on the thermostat).

wrinx
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess it must be the water temp sensor, the only other temp sensor is part of the AFM. It is possiable it has gone out of calibration again, I am going to check it hot and cold today against the chart.

But that might explain a poor fuel consumption or slightly incorrect mixture but surely not the total kangeroo engine cutting as I am driving round roundabouts etc.

And that old injector light keeps flickering in to get a piece of the action. If I watch it the light comes on when it is cutting, and this may be some sort of illusion but the light seems to come on round right hand corners too sometimes???

Dom
 

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Check the actual connector pins on the water temp sender - they can push back inside the connector shell and give you this exact intermittent problem. Simple to do - pull back the rubber boot and tug on the wires (not too hard!). The connector should not come out the back although it should wiggle about a wee bit.

Worth a look as you seem to have covered every other possibilty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You might be right Chris, I have just done the hot/cold calibration check and got 3.09K [email protected] degrees C and 282 Ohms @ 85 Degrees C, so the sensor is spot on the chart values. I will go and clean up the plug and check those pins.

Dom
 
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I would check all the other realys an fuses you can find under the bonnet! I had the injector light appearing until swapping a couple of relays around, not seen it since :confused:

wrinx
 

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Eggy cat = dead cat,

Your code though should now be sorted, the only other thing to affect the idle bar the temp sensor is the TPS/IAC and it could be that too.
 
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