JTD mjet Big AirFilter and Oil recirc conversion - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 29 Old 21-05-11 Thread Starter
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JTD mjet Big AirFilter and Oil recirc conversion

Hi,
I Took some pics earlier showing the big airfilter conversion using the original pipe work, using the std MAF unit.




Also took a pic showing the oil vapour recirc mod. Blanking off the air inlet oil vapour spout, and condensing the vapour in a small pot instead (steel wool inside) so far about 2ml of oil in 1000 miles.






Having rebuild the engine, I didn't want all the oil and soot cloggin up the inlet side of the engine or coating all the pipework in oil vapour..

Just some ideas to throw out there.
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(Post Link) post #2 of 29 Old 22-05-11 Thread Starter
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This engine was reuilb about 1000miles ago. Along with the the Oil recirc & Big Airfilter, it has a primary decat and EGR blanking (with gas cooler removal) - EGR valve still in place. This engine breathes clean air, not sooty oil vapour

Noise wise, its not too bad at all. Slightly more 'rush' of air when on boost, and sometimes you can hear the turbo chatter (vanes rapid open/closing)
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I like the idea of your oil recirc as I did something very similar with the air filter on my 2.4 jtd. I can't see from the picture whether you have the oil pipe still going into the engine after going through your recirc thingy.
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(Post Link) post #4 of 29 Old 26-05-11 Thread Starter
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the recirc condenser, just vents to atmos. at this point there is very little oil vapour..a tiny amount gets collectd in the wire wool.
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Great, thanks.
I'll try it myself then.
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Why did you remove the heat shield??? also you are sucking much warmer air then before with the factory air box...
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(Post Link) post #7 of 29 Old 28-05-11 Thread Starter
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The engine is noticably more powerful, and returns better mpg after the rebuild and changes. Averages 56 mpg over 1KMiles since rebuild, and regularly cruises at over 60mpg.

Heat soak not having any effect.
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Your oil vapour recirculation mod is very interesting...
Could you explain (with details) what kind of reservoir ("small pot" as you say) for oil you have on the end of oil vapour recirculation pipe?
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Think of it more as a small 'catch' tank. ~The dont have to be made from equisitly welded aluminium plate, and anodised red or blue..

this is a tiny Multi-vitamin pot!, with a spout epoxied in the side, the pot is packed with s/s wire wool, the wire wool help the vapour condense and pool at the bottom of the pot, so only a tiny amount actually is vented to atmosphere..

The spout on the inlet pipe to the turbo is blanked off.
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the engine has almost no blow-by after the rebuild, so the crankcase pressure is very low anyway
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I suppose that mentioned small "catch" tank is perforated on the bottom (or some other) side in order to make possible free evacuation of non-condensed oil vapor?
@edit: I see now - perforation is on the top side of the oil "catch" tank...

Last edited by dusanGT; 30-05-11 at 18:10.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefz View Post
The engine is noticably more powerful, and returns better mpg after the rebuild and changes. Averages 56 mpg over 1KMiles since rebuild, and regularly cruises at over 60mpg.

Heat soak not having any effect.
It might "feel" like it has more power, but you cant say for sure unless you RR it.

Would be best to stick the heat shield back or make another one.

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What is about of engine noise and vibration, regards to more fresh air intakes int to the engine now?
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I personally like the sound of the turbo spooling and hearing the whistle. Not to everyones taste but it's not too offensive and definitely not like the 'pshhh, pssssh' sound you get from loud dump valves!
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(Post Link) post #15 of 29 Old 07-06-11 Thread Starter
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Engine feels alot smoother after the rebuild, a bit noisier intake and exhaust notes (decat also) but the engine running is alot smoother sounding.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefz View Post
Engine feels a lot smoother sounding.
Good news...
I will make MAF-to-turbo pipe as in the picture and "oil catch can" from plastic cylindrical box...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MAF2Turbo.jpg (29.3 KB, 22 views)
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I did something similar but left the cold air feed to the airbox in place pointing towards the filter and I cut out some of the plastic shroud to the right of the radiator and directed air to the filter too. I left the MAF out as it appears to run much better without it. I will need to buy a new MAF and connect it up soon though.
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Could you make some photos of this mod?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusan View Post
Good news...
I will make MAF-to-turbo pipe as in the picture and "oil catch can" from plastic cylindrical box...
Isn't this similair in dimensions to the OEM turbo inlet pipe?

I would say, just put a plug into the standard hose and you're good to go.
That standard hose has a built in hump to allow the movement between engine and fixed airbox...
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Few months ago I made modified inlet pipe without ribs and with short lateral pipe for oil recirculation intake... IMO, ribs/hups (in the OEM pipe) could cause turbulent motion of air and they are obstacle for free-flow of air in the compressor. In that sense any plug which will be insert in the short pipe may be little obstacle.
In case of 8v JTD engine any additional amount of cold and compressed air is true gift...
I will try this because I can make (in local workshop) inexpensive pipe without short lateral 19 pipe part ...
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File Type: jpg From MAF to Turbo 1.jpg (34.5 KB, 11 views)

Last edited by dusanGT; 08-06-11 at 17:42.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusan View Post
Few months ago I made modified inlet pipe without ribs and with short lateral pipe for oil recirculation intake... IMO, ribs/hups (in the OEM pipe) could cause turbulent motion of air and they are obstacle for free-flow of air in the compressor. In that sense any plug which will be insert in the short pipe may be little obstacle.
In case of 8v JTD engine any additional amount of cold and compressed air is true gift...
I will try this because I can make (in local workshop) inexpensive pipe without short lateral 19 pipe part ...
I see.
In that case, looking at your design an improvement can be made.
For maximum flow/ minimal pressure loss you should make the 50 part as short as possible.
Measure the length of the turbo's connection pipe and use that as a reference.
The cone angle looks good, so maintain the total length by extending the 70 part.
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Initial length (measures are given in the picture) is identical with the original "ribbed" pipe length. Because my BMC-CDA 80-150 I have to make length of new turbo inlet pipe shorter than original one... In that sense I completely agree with your recommendation of shortening of 50 side...
Today I buy very interesting parts for simulation of real "oil catch can" device...
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File Type: jpg Oil Catch Can Parts.jpg (67.4 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Oil Catch Can.jpg (66.4 KB, 9 views)
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Today, guys in local workshop mounted described modded inlet pipe instead of old inlet pipe (with short recirculation lateral piece). Longer oil recirculation pipe (leaded from oil separator to the inlet pipe) is changed by new simple 3/4" (70cm length) with "oil catch can" which is given in pictures in the previous post... This can is located in the zone where was SMIC long time ago.
Probably I have auto-suggestion, but feeling in drive is better (especially in low RPM range). Also, when I turn off engine (after long drive) I see small amount of oil smoke when I open bonnet. Regards to the protection of environment it is bad thing, but it means smaller quantity of engine oil in the intake system...

Last edited by dusanGT; 10-06-11 at 16:55.
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Hi Dusan, that's interesting. Would you post few pics of your current intake system?
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Hello Josef - next week I have to go in the local service workshop, because my thermostat leaks...
Then I can make some photos from bottom, without undertray...
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