My RHD standing pedal dual circuit master cylinder (of unknown age) started leaking last winter and I replaced it with a refurbished one in March.
After about 100 miles, this one started leaking, so I sent it back. It has been rebuilt and tested again so I’m about to reinstall it.
Apparently the company who refurbished it said there was some debris in it/the system which compromised the seals.
With this in mind I want to ensure there is nothing in there before this one goes on. I’ve noticed some specs of grub in the reservoir which has appeared since I washed it out the other year as part of installing new servos and changed the flexible lines.
It isn’t magnetic so I’m assuming it’s rubber but it’s so fine I can’t be sure - I used Cohline 2337 for the reservoir to solid lines so doubt it’s that - does anyone have any other guesses or am I being paranoid?
I've not heard of the rubber degrading like that in such a short time? Maybe the seals in the cylinder were at fault? Could you remove as much fluid from the reservoir as you can and refill?
If your bleeding the system again why not buy another length of pipe from the reservoir to the metal pipe?
Thanks for the reply - I’ve emptied the reservoir and had a good look at the contaminants and think they’ve come out of the tyre when I’ve been using my pressure bleeder connected to the front wheel.
I’ve sucked them all up and will flush a couple of hundred ml of fluid through to ensure they’re all out of the supply lines before I put the new MC on.
I’m using a vacuum bleeder this time!
I can’t get the flexible lines off as installed then while the servos were out and now remember heating them up with hot water to get them on. I’ll cut them off if I get any further issues, but can’t believe the particle size of debris I’m seeing would compromise a seal in the MC - suspect the supplier was covering themselves saying dirt in the system was the cause of the premature failure, especially since seeing the colour of the fluid which came out of the MC following, presumably, their pressure test...
In the good days when you bought a master cylinder it came with instructions. ISTR you are supposed to loop the outputs into the reservoir and pump until all the bubbles stopped, which seemed to take a very long time. I always do this now when fitting a new one, but I can't positively say bad things happen if you dont do it.
Replaced the front brake light switch today which was easy (once I’d found a 22mm spanner), the old one looked like it had either a very mangled plastic washer or a bit of sealant on it - the new one from CA didn’t so hopefully it won’t leak; I tried not to over-tighten it but nipped it up what felt right.
The rear one is a different story - it’s over an inch so I’m guessing 26mm - and I’ll have to use an adjustable to get it off so wanted to ensure the new one will fit first! Has anyone seen one of these and successfully replaced it with a 22mm version?
I’m ready to put the MC back on and get the system bled, but never want to mess with it again so would like to know both the switches are working first!
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