Thicker front ARB, lots of movement? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Thicker front ARB, lots of movement?

Hi,

I’ve fitted the thicker bladed front ARB tonight but I’m not sure it’s right? Everything seemed to go together well ok but there’s a lot of lateral movement in the bar as it slides from side to side through the bushes.

Also the rubber seal of the drop link lower ball joint is touching the spring pan and looks like it could soon wear through?
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(Post Link) post #2 of 19 Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Spoke to CA this morning, the lateral movement is ‘normal’ when the car is jacked up which was when I tested it. When it’s on it’s wheels the bar and drop links will tension into place when under load.

Also the closeness of the lower drop link rubber seal is a known issue as the drop links are designed for later cars with the same depth spring pans on each side. Advice was to got the angle grinder out and cut away a bit of the spring pans to make some more room.

It’s in having the alignment done this morning so I’m looking forward to getting it back.

Current cars - 1973 2000 GTV, 1974 Spider 2000, 2002 Porsche 911, 2003 Rover 75 V6.

Gone but not forgotten - 1999 GTV TS, 1987 Alfetta GTV, 1978 Alfetta GTV, 1968 Giulia Super 1600, 1967 GT Junior 1300.
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Originally Posted by SimonGTV View Post
Hi,

I’ve fitted the thicker bladed front ARB tonight but I’m not sure it’s right? Everything seemed to go together well ok but there’s a lot of lateral movement in the bar as it slides from side to side through the bushes.

Also the rubber seal of the drop link lower ball joint is touching the spring pan and looks like it could soon wear through?
Hi Simon, that's one of the reasons that, each time, (three of these fitted to my last three 105's), I didn't go for the "blade type" bar & drop links, I'd seen one on a friends car, & noted the closeness of the drop link rubber to the spring pan. I went for the earlier "screwed end" original type, it's cheaper, and it fits great. The earlier drop links also are a bit more robust and stop the bar from moving laterally too much.
All I can say is, if you've used grease with the poly bushes, take the clamps off, wipe most of it off the ID of the bushes and the bar, then clamp it up again. It really only needs the slightest amount.
Once fitted, and you've been round several RH & LH corners, it will centralise itself and should stay there.
Steve
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Thanks Steve, if I’d realised it wasn’t a straight swap I might have had second thoughts (they don’t mention any issues on their website).

I’ll wipe off my liberal smearing of grease but even then I’m still sceptical than the weight of the car will hold things in place. We’ll see.

Thanks
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Back from a test drive and when it’s on it’s wheels the bar can still be easily moved from side to side by hand and knocks when driving.

Somethings not right so i’ll have to get back to them on Monday.
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Out of interest Simon why did you chose the later blade style over the original style ARB? Ive still to fit mine but just bought the thicker original style. Hoping not to have the same issues...


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Back from a test drive and when itís on itís wheels the bar can still be easily moved from side to side by hand and knocks when driving.

Somethings not right so iíll have to get back to them on Monday.
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so do your spring pans have no cut outs for the drop links?

as seen in the last 2 photos here:
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/1108449-post3.html
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Roony, the blade ones were meant to be better, though I’m not sure how?

Dom, the drivers shallow pan has, although it’s still tight but the thicker pan definitely needs some cutting.
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Ah ok... Would CA not exchange it for you...


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Roony, the blade ones were meant to be better, though Iím not sure how?

Dom, the drivers shallow pan has, although itís still tight but the thicker pan definitely needs some cutting.
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I've got one of these bladed type ARBs and had no problems
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No movements at all scrab?

I’ve phoned CA back, they don’t know what it could be but they do have a car in with the same set up so Tom is going to have a look to see if he can notice anything.
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All though I do think the conventional FARB is a poor design and the blade better, I think the main source for improvement is the option to use adjustable Rose joints in the drop links. Which doesnít seem to have been taken up in your installation Simon?.

I was toying with the idea of doing this, but given your experience I think I will stick with the conventional set up for now.
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No movements at all scrab?

Iíve phoned CA back, they donít know what it could be but they do have a car in with the same set up so Tom is going to have a look to see if he can notice anything.
Not noticed any movement. I have got rose jointed adjustable drop links as VeloceMitch discussed, but that wont make any difference
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Looks like we’ve finally got to the bottom of this and it’s a fault with the ARB. It should be 29mm but the latest batch measure 27.1mm so they’re too thin for the bushes hence the movement.

As I also wasn’t confident with the position of the drop links and the shortness of the threads on the drop link bolts I’ve gone for a standard setup, still the thicker bar but with ‘normal’ ends and drop links.

The benefits of the bladed bar are supposedly additional stiffness but it would have to be super tight for this to work and I don’t think i’d really notice any difference at the wheel?
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Blimey, that's a bit of a **** up isn't. Its not like its a manufacturing tolerance is it, 1.9mm!!

I wonder how that has come about.

In other news I swapped my 29mm Bar from the 2000 to the 1750 the other day, fitted OK, but on the drivers side its not clamping as well as I would like and I nearly stripped the captive nut trying to do so. I hate this design......
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Quote:
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Looks like weíve finally got to the bottom of this and itís a fault with the ARB. It should be 29mm but the latest batch measure 27.1mm so theyíre too thin for the bushes hence the movement.

As I also wasnít confident with the position of the drop links and the shortness of the threads on the drop link bolts Iíve gone for a standard setup, still the thicker bar but with Ďnormalí ends and drop links.

The benefits of the bladed bar are supposedly additional stiffness but it would have to be super tight for this to work and I donít think iíd really notice any difference at the wheel?
Glad you've got it sorted Simon, it had to be something like that.

Steve
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I did suggest it might have been that very early on but they didn’t seem to think so! They did say it was probably just a thinner powder coat but yes that’s quite a difference.

Oh and guess what the non bladed ones are out of stock so I’m still waiting, should be here next week though.
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industry specs for powder coating are between 60-80 microns.
...we are talking 0,06 - 0,08 mm

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industry specs for powder coating are between 60-80 microns.
...we are talking 0,06 - 0,08 mm

They could powder coat them another 28 times and claim they were the ultimate in corrosion protection!
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