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(Post Link) post #1 of 123 Old 11-12-17 Thread Starter
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I said I wouldn't buy another project but....

I couldn't leave this orphan all alone so close to Christmas so I brought it home this morning!

It's a 1973 2000 GTV, originally a SA car but brought into the UK 16 years ago by the previous owner who'd owned it for 8 years in SA before bringing it home. Being an engineer, he apparently rebuilt the engine, gearbox, diff and brakes when it came back plus switched to U.K. clocks but then never drove the car over here and its sat in storage for 14 years. It's had a couple of bad paint jobs, original colour is a light green that I haven't seen before but matches the green Momos! Body is good, still on original sills, spot welds still visible between all inner and outer wing lips. The only previous repairs are a fist sized fibreglass patch to the drivers floor, all other usual areas are good though the near side rear wing may be hiding some surprises! I paid 4900 which I think is pretty reasonable.

My plan is to go all out on this one, bare metal then fast road spec. I've got just over 3 years until my 50th so that's my target date. The only downside is that something else has got to go to fund the resto.
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Current cars - 1973 2000 GTV, 1974 Spider 2000, 2002 Porsche 911, 2003 Rover 75 V6.

Gone but not forgotten - 1999 GTV TS, 1987 Alfetta GTV, 1978 Alfetta GTV, 1968 Giulia Super 1600, 1967 GT Junior 1300.

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good project.
the momo vegas look original will bring in a little starting capital
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Originally Posted by spiderserie4 View Post
good project.
the momo vegas look original will bring in a little starting capital
Thanks, yes speced from new apparently, there are 4 green and the spare is a 'normal' black one. What do you think they are worth?
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If original at least a grand.. I would have thought... Looks like you have picked the car up for a great price?

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Thanks, yes speced from new apparently, there are 4 green and the spare is a 'normal' black one. What do you think they are worth?
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well, they won't pay for the full restoration! ()
difficult to say a price, but the replicas cost about 650 (ink Vat) for 4.

selling rims always stumbles a bit on shipping/postage costs...last restored set of 4 went, I believe, for around 1500 $ in the US but shipping them out there would be too costly.

must be a few people who'd want these rims....they always seem to sell when they (albeit infrequently) turn up on fleabay.
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Thanks both, yes that would certainly help out and I think I'm going to need all the help I can muster! I've not decided yet but when you consider the refurb cost plus limited choice of 14 inch tyres I think moving them on wouldn't be a bad idea.
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been keeping my eye out and never seen this come up in the usual for sale places..
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I'm always looking too but I suppose I got lucky with this one. The owner gave it to a small dealer in Manchester to sell who mostly deals in British stuff, he posted on a 105 Facebook page to test the water, I replied straight away and he was good enough to give me first refusal. He wanted to put it on eBay but I knew I had to get it before then, I think it would have gone for more but then you never know?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roony View Post
If original at least a grand.. I would have thought... Looks like you have picked the car up for a great price?
Really! - good job I've got locking wheel nuts and agreed valuation, think you'll find them cheaper than that but they rarely come up for sale, also they do degrade and if the inner rims are affected you'll never get a seal, mine had some corrosion shown up by the blasters but luckily nothing too serious.., great project Simon, good luck, those SA cars can be great buys having seen dickymints GTV
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Originally Posted by SimonGTV View Post
Thanks both, yes that would certainly help out and I think I'm going to need all the help I can muster! I've not decided yet but when you consider the refurb cost plus limited choice of 14 inch tyres I think moving them on wouldn't be a bad idea.
Simon, limited choice of 14" rubber ? There are Continental, Michelin, Dunlop, Firestone, Kumho, Toyo, Avon CR6ZZ to name but a few, all in & around 185 x 70 x 14".
185 / 70's are a good modern compromise for what was in period, not too low a sidewall, (which also looks ridiculous), and more than wide enough to retain the famed Alfa dynamism on 51/2" to 7" rims
I put 185 x 70 x 14" Conti's on my 7 x 14" GTA wheels on the last GTA Rep, and they were superb, also had them last year on my BMW NK 2000 Ti.
I don't hold with this "lack of good tyres" business for 14" rims. As long as you're not going racing, there's plenty of top make, good fast road tyres out there in 14". I've always thought it was a ploy by a certain outfit to sell 15" wheels.
I also think 15" wheels don't look right on a Bertone Coupe., with one exception, the TZ / TI Super 5.5 x 15" , but only on the early low-arch cars.
Best looking in my opinion are either 7" X 14" GTA, or the lovely Momo's that you have.

I think you'll struggle , or be very lucky to get the big money for those lovely Momo's, shipping is expensive and a pain, and the price of a repo set means your market is extremely small, but good luck if you decide to !


BTW, you stole that car. Absolute sheds are going for way more than that. Also, that original metallic olive green is beautiful in the flesh, and very rare !

Steve
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Simon, limited choice of 14" rubber ? There are Continental, Michelin, Dunlop, Firestone, Kumho, Toyo, Avon CR6ZZ to name but a few, all in & around 185 x 70 x 14".
185 / 70's are a good modern compromise for what was in period, not too low a sidewall, (which also looks ridiculous), and more than wide enough to retain the famed Alfa dynamism on 51/2" to 7" rims
I put 185 x 70 x 14" Conti's on my 7 x 14" GTA wheels on the last GTA Rep, and they were superb, also had them last year on my BMW NK 2000 Ti.
I don't hold with this "lack of good tyres" business for 14" rims. As long as you're not going racing, there's plenty of top make, good fast road tyres out there in 14". I've always thought it was a ploy by a certain outfit to sell 15" wheels.
I also think 15" wheels don't look right on a Bertone Coupe., with one exception, the TZ / TI Super 5.5 x 15" , but only on the early low-arch cars.
Best looking in my opinion are either 7" X 14" GTA, or the lovely Momo's that you have.

I think you'll struggle , or be very lucky to get the big money for those lovely Momo's, shipping is expensive and a pain, and the price of a repo set means your market is extremely small, but good luck if you decide to !


BTW, you stole that car. Absolute sheds are going for way more than that. Also, that original metallic olive green is beautiful in the flesh, and very rare !

Steve
Agree, I've got 185/70/14 Rainsports on my Momo's and not from lack of choice, they look pretty good on 6.5 J's, I'd keep them as there's Kudos for having rare originals rather than repro's as long as they are in good condition
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Thanks both, I think you're right Steve especially about a certain bias towards 15's and I must admit I've been suckered in. The Spider has Conti's and the Alfetta Bridgestones, both in 14's so I know you can still get them but when I was looking for some more track orientated tyres for the Alfetta the problem wasn't necessarily the size but the profile, most of the 14's being too low, certainly at the end of the price spectrum I was looking at. Maybe I just need to look a bit harder.

I hope the olive green is the original colour, if so I'll definitely be going back to that. Will have see how green wheels on a green car look though? The only thing that's definite is it's not staying red!
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Thanks both, I think you're right Steve especially about a certain bias towards 15's and I must admit I've been suckered in. The Spider has Conti's and the Alfetta Bridgestones, both in 14's so I know you can still get them but when I was looking for some more track orientated tyres for the Alfetta the problem wasn't necessarily the size but the profile, most of the 14's being too low, certainly at the end of the price spectrum I was looking at. Maybe I just need to look a bit harder.

I hope the olive green is the original colour, if so I'll definitely be going back to that. Will have see how green wheels on a green car look though? The only thing that's definite is it's not staying red!
Simon, you've done really well there. Looking forward to hearing more about the project. What must go to make the room though....
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Simon, you've done really well there. Looking forward to hearing more about the project. What must go to make the room though....
Thanks Dicky.

What's to go, that's my big dilemma, if it was up to my heart it would be the 911 but as it's my DD I would still have to get another car as a daily hack, this would free up some cash but doesn't help my overcrowding problem. The other option is the Alfetta which is a win win as it would free up some cash and space in the garage for the GTV restoration. It's pretty much finished now so maybe it's time to pass it on, it's going to be tough though!
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Got yourself a bargain there Simon. It will be interesting to follow the resto.
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Might as well make this the resto thread.

I wasn't going to start until the spring but I'm itching to get going already!

First job is to get it running so I can give the mechanicals and electrics a once over. Even though everything will be stripped I think it will still be a good idea. Currently the carbs are off and brakes disconnected so you never know it might be straight forward!

Once it's stripped down I'll then have to decide how to remove the old paint. I'm going to try and do everything except the new paint so I'll speak to the body shop first but as I haven't got the money for a dip or blast, it will a choice of sanding or chemical stripping.
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It's all back together but I can't get it to start as there's no spark at all, it cranks over fine but no sign of starting ☹️. I've read lots of old posts, mostly from me! but I'm out of ideas.

Findings so far are as follows.

Battery is fully charged.
No spark to any plugs when engine turns.
I have 12v from the coil and to the dizzy which has an accuspark fitted.
I've tried a couple of dizzy's including one with points but still nothing.
I've ran an ignition lead from directly from the coil with a plug on the end, 12v to the plug but still no spark.
Coil wiring is green ignition wire and red dizzy wire to positive and black dizzy wire to negative.
I've tried, different plugs, leads, coil and dizzy's from the spares box but still nothing.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Simon
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Not quite understanding where you checked for voltage, but

I can only think of checking voltage at the green wire, both when removed from coil +ve; again when fitted to the coil....(IGN on in both cases, obviously)

Then I'd check the little wire from dizzy to coil -ve....that it is not broken somewhere along its length.
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There are two windings in an ignition coil, high tension and low tension, it seems low tension is OK, change the coil and see what happens.
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Thanks both,

Dom, I didn't remove the green wire other than to clean it up, I checked the voltage by touching the +ve terminal on the coil, eartherd to the body whilst the green wire was still connected, ignition on. The accuspark'd dizzy has two wires, one to each coil terminal but I can swap it for the points one I have and check the wire to the negative side of the coil.

TD, thanks I did swap the coil, the one I have is unused that I bought for another car but didn't fit, I will triple check though and try the one from the Alfetta.

I read on another post about connecting a lead directly from the coil to a plug which would bypass the dizzy and rule it out for now. Is this a worthwhile test and if I'm still not seeing a spark does it point to the coil.

Thanks as ever.
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Ok tonight's checks -

Green ignition wire readings:

Disconnected from new coil - 11.99v, connected to coil 11.99v, coil with wire disconnected 0.2v

Swapped to old coil and readings very similar, disconnected from old coil - 12.15v, connected to coil 12.15v, coil with wire disconnected 0.5v.

I swapped back to the original dizzy with points fitted, contacts cleaned and gap checked as ok at 0.35mm. I checked the wire to the -ve side of the coil which seemed fine but swapped it for another to check. I think that's ok as it sparked when connected to the dizzy end as I'd forgetten to turn the ignition off!

Still no spark???

The other side of the coin is I'm not getting any fuel either, there must be a blockage between the tank and the pump as I've disconnected and cleaned the pump, filter and engine bay lines but when I try and suck or push air down the line from either the engine bay or the tank end it feels totally blocked. I'm planning on getting some compressed air shot through there to try and shift it or blow all the joins, which ever first!

Let the fun commence ��
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I take it that you have a very warm garage Simon...




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Ok tonight's checks -

Green ignition wire readings:

Disconnected from new coil - 11.99v, connected to coil 11.99v, coil with wire disconnected 0.2v

Swapped to old coil and readings very similar, disconnected from old coil - 12.15v, connected to coil 12.15v, coil with wire disconnected 0.5v.

I swapped back to the original dizzy with points fitted, contacts cleaned and gap checked as ok at 0.35mm. I checked the wire to the -ve side of the coil which seemed fine but swapped it for another to check. I think that's ok as it sparked when connected to the dizzy end as I'd forgetten to turn the ignition off!

Still no spark???

The other side of the coin is I'm not getting any fuel either, there must be a blockage between the tank and the pump as I've disconnected and cleaned the pump, filter and engine bay lines but when I try and suck or push air down the line from either the engine bay or the tank end it feels totally blocked. I'm planning on getting some compressed air shot through there to try and shift it or blow all the joins, which ever first!

Let the fun commence ��
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I have a cold garage but sadly there's no room in it yet for this one. It was hoody, fleece, overalls, gloves, hat and head torch time. It was a barmy 1c but the rain didn't help!
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OK, time to check th eking lead, the lead from the coil to the distributor. Swap the cap and leads from another car and see what happens.
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OK, time to check th eking lead, the lead from the coil to the distributor. Swap the cap and leads from another car and see what happens.
I was thinking this, especially if with changing out the various dizzies, you used the same cap (did you?)....make sure the little carbon nib inside the cap and the centre plughole of the cap are both good.

When you got the car, was it already fitted with the accuspark or did you fit that?

With a std. points dizzy and good voltage to coil (as you have) I'd normally suspect the condensor (they fail, often, especially aftermarket cheapos)

with the accu-S dizzy I'd suspect the electronic accu gizmo at fault.

btw: did/does your GTV have the old square ballast resistor fitted (a 73 might)?

I believe an accuspark requires a different coil, if ballast is bypassed (Bosch blue I think)

the pump: orig. mechanical one? it might need priming (when you finally get fuel running thru the lines), if you removed and cleaned it....I don't think these have enough pull to suck half empty fuel lines.
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