2.0jts FAULT CODES p0120,p1120 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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2.0jts FAULT CODES p0120,p1120

Hi
I had the P0120 before, it went away for a 500 km after cleaning the contact splines in the electrical part of the Throtlle housing and reseting the fault. Now its back. When a do the cleaning and resetting again the fault thous not come back for a day or two. When the motor managment light comes on the car is not driving as it should ( not enough power ) When i cut the contact and start again the motor managment light stays on butt the car has all his power. With an other trottle housing it had exactly the same symptons?????????????
P1120 say there is something wrong on Pot motor track 2??????????
Please help

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Just in case you haven't seen this thread https://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...is-enough.html. You say you have cleaned the contact splines, did you use contact cleaner spray? The type you need to use is the one that contains a contact lubricant, and you need to connect/disconnect several times to help remove any tarnish etc.
P0120 = throttle body, P1120 = accelerator pedal position.
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I used the correct cleaning spray.
In the other thread i read the following
" Have you tried removing the multiplug for the pedal sensor behind the glovebox and soldering the connections together instead?"

As he is talking about an 156, is this plug at the same place in the spider?
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The throttle actuator goes via one of the two rear bulkhead plugs (G133b), I do not know which one of the two plugs is G133b.

The accelerator pedal position sensor connects direct to the ECU according to the Alfa Romeo wiring diagram for the GTV/Spider.

JTS_throttle_dagram.pdf
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Originally Posted by sensingsys View Post
The throttle actuator goes via one of the two rear bulkhead plugs (G133b), I do not know which one of the two plugs is G133b.

The accelerator pedal position sensor connects direct to the ECU according to the Alfa Romeo wiring diagram for the GTV/Spider.

JTS_throttle_dagram.pdf
I have cleaned all the plugs exept one ( the one on the pedal, my back is not so good), on the throttlehousing the one on the pictures and the ones on the ECU.
We are two day later and untill now everything is ok, lets hope it stays that way

Last edited by Afco; 04-02-16 at 09:53.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Afco View Post
I have cleaned all the plugs exept one ( the one on the pedal, my back is not so good), on the throttlehousing the one on the pictures and the ones on the ECU.
We are two day later and untill now everything is ok, lets hope it stays that way
The faults are back

Last edited by Afco; 04-02-16 at 09:53.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Afco View Post
Hi
I had the P0120 before, it went away for a 500 km after cleaning the contact splines in the electrical part of the Throtlle housing and reseting the fault. Now its back. When a do the cleaning and resetting again the fault thous not come back for a day or two. When the motor managment light comes on the car is not driving as it should ( not enough power ) When i cut the contact and start again the motor managment light stays on butt the car has all his power. With an other trottle housing it had exactly the same symptons?????????????
P1120 say there is something wrong on Pot motor track 2??????????
Please help
Could well be the throttle pedal
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Could well be the throttle pedal
Cleaned the one on the pedal..................no result
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JTS fault codes

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Originally Posted by Afco View Post
Cleaned the one on the pedal..................no result
It could be the actual pedal switch itself, rather than the connector.

Philip
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Today, i replaced the not original tube between the throttle rubber hose and the airfilter rubber hose by the original resonator ( you know the stupid black plastic box ) and leaved the yellow MM light on.
My girl friend ( who is the usual driver ) who did not know i changed something to the car took the car for a 75 km drive and came back saying what did you do to that car, it drives like never before and the MM light whent off by it self.
ehuh, me no comprendo anymore , hope it stays this way
S.H.I.T. ( Self Healing Italian Technology?????????????)
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Originally Posted by Afco View Post
Today, i replaced the not original tube between the throttle rubber hose and the airfilter rubber hose by the original resonator ( you know the stupid black plastic box ) and leaved the yellow MM light on.
My girl friend ( who is the usual driver ) who did not know i changed something to the car took the car for a 75 km drive and came back saying what did you do to that car, it drives like never before and the MM light whent off by it self.
ehuh, me no comprendo anymore , hope it stays this way
S.H.I.T. ( Self Healing Italian Technology?????????????)
Damned at least the car is!
After 4 days and +/- 200 km yesterday evening at the start up the light whent on and the car was directly going in
sort off sos run ( dont know in englisch ) 6 faults . p0120, P1120, 2 related to the throttle /sensor housing and 2 concerning th catalic converter who are a i think the result of the 2 first ones.
Reseted the faults and car drives perfect.....................for howlong?
After the reset i wiggeld the pedal in every sens as to mayby create a fault.......... nope no fault.
Should i go for a 3 thrd throttle house?
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You would be better off trying a replacement throttle pedal potentiometer, a new one if available would be about £600, the Alfa part number is 46810176. According to eper the same potentiometer was used for the twin spark CF2 & CF3 Spider/GTVs.

This one should be correct http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/02-ALFA-ROMEO-GTV-SPIDER-Potentiometer-THROTTLE-ACCELERATOR-PEDAL-POSITION-/262069143874?hash=item3d0489c942:geEAAOSwFnFWCUa c, unfortunately the number given is the Bosch number - maybe you can check the Bosch number on yours. The number beginning with the zero is the Bosch number, I presume the other one is the serial number.
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Thanks Sengsinsys for the tip.
However it is practicaly impossible to read any numbers when the thing is mounted and it is verry verry really verry difficult to take it out of the car ( and put it back temperorly ) Also on E per there is a difference between the one for a left hand sx ( sinistra )and right hand drive dx ( destra ).
I will cheque with e per and hope it is the good one
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4 days and an 200 km ago i tryd something else.
I disconnected the lmm and the car drives perfect of course the MM lamp is on because it dont find the lmm connected. Every evening i read out the fault codes and guess what...........untill now the initial faults dont come back. Could it be a faulty lmm...............lets hope so.
However is it normal that the car drives perfect whitout an lmm??!! So what is his function

This evening the 2 initial faults are back? Stll wondering is de LMM no good. Strange in any case as reconnected i receive no direct fault cc LMM butt there is no differece at all in the cars behavior connected or not connected
( runs perfect )!

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What's an LMM?
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What's an LMM?
LMM = ( Dutch ) Lucht massa meter = Air Mass sensor/device
Sorry cant remember the real name in englisch.
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Running issue JTS

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LMM = ( Dutch ) Lucht massa meter = Air Mass sensor/device
Sorry cant remember the real name in englisch.
Change the Air Mass Meter for a new unit (Bosch). When the meters are faulty and you disconnect them the car will run better.
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Quote:
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LMM = ( Dutch ) Lucht massa meter = Air Mass sensor/device
Sorry cant remember the real name in englisch.
MAF .. Mass Airflow Meter ...

As Phil pointed out the MAF rarely provides a code until it is completely dead. The most obvious sign is a flat-spot around 3.5/4K. Disconnecting the MAF will cause the EML (engine management light) to come on but the engine should rev cleaning all the way to the red-line again.

MAFs are easily destroyed by trying to clean them (may work once or twice but once they start to fail that's it) and non-Bosch mafs are often used .. and Alfa's seem to dislike that .. same with the Lambda sensor(s).

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2 weeks and 500 km ago agian i cleaned the electric parts of the throttle house, AND SECURED THE CONNECTOR WITH A VERRY TIGHT STRAP.
Also for the first time in 2 years i was able to drive the car on the higway for about 160 km at a speed of 130 km/h, maybe this helped to. However untill now NO Faults anymore I think the strap did it
As i ame an optimistic i ame very hopeful that it stays like that this time
If they come back, you guys will be the first to know
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Quote:
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2 weeks and 500 km ago agian i cleaned the electric parts of the throttle house, AND SECURED THE CONNECTOR WITH A VERRY TIGHT STRAP.
Also for the first time in 2 years i was able to drive the car on the higway for about 160 km at a speed of 130 km/h, maybe this helped to. However untill now NO Faults anymore I think the strap did it
As i ame an optimistic i ame very hopeful that it stays like that this time
If they come back, you guys will be the first to know
Reviving the old thread. I have exactly the same problem, only my errors are less frequent - I can drive completely normaly even for a month, I can reach 200+ km/h without a problem as well. But from time to time, completely randomly I get MCSF light and faults P0120 and P1121.

Did you figure it out in the end. Was it faulty LMM or throttle house connection?
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How strange it maybe, the strap did it for awile How ever after a month the faults came back butt it It was not the Maf and it was not the throttle or pedal sensors. After changing a one of the ifnition coils the faults did nit come back and the run fine for a few months. Again the faults came back changing a second ignition coil resolved the problem again? Butt again the faults came back after a few months, finaly changing a third ignition coil solved the problem. Now the car is running fine since +/- 2 years. A friend mechanic told me that when they have cars with that kind of problem ( ignition coil ) they simply change all 4 of theme at once as when one fails the others will follow soon. This story proves he is right for 75 % :-) An ignition coil cost +/- 65 €
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