You'd need to turn the crank to get at all the bearing caps, I'm almost certain of it. You can undo the bearing caps and lift the liner, piston & half the rod out through the top without disturbing the crank. Re-fitting them means turning the crank before the heads are on to replace the bearing caps, so you would need to insert certain liners, lock those particular liners down, replace bearing caps, turn crank, fit remaining liners, lock down, replace caps etc etc.. Can't remember if you'd need to turn the crank just once or twice - this is not the way we do it though, we would take the full engine out and do a bare block rebuild if it needed liner seals. It makes sense to do big end bearings, main bearings, thrust washers, grind/polish crank, dynamic balance of the bottom end, re-face flywheel, re-hone liners and change piston rings, change front & rear crank oil seals and all the other oil seals, rebuild oil pump, replace clutch etc. If you don't have a ramp though this adds a lot of difficulty but I can't see that you are replacing the cylinder head gaskets and liner seals just to sell the car on, you would be mad to do that. So assuming you're planning on keeping the car long term, it might make sense to give it a full rebuild rather than half a rebuild.
I can't remember what O-rings we use, we don't keep these parts in for the 2.5 V6, only the 3.0 and 3.2.