Cf3 engine into a Cf2? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Cf3 engine into a Cf2?

Hi,

The engine in my 98 2.5 V6 will have to come out(head gasket failure).

I have another 156 I use for spares but is a cf3 engine. Is it possible to fit this later type into mine and if so what headaches can I look forward to?

Thanks
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Yes you can use the CF3 in your CF2.

I used a CF2 3.0 in my 156 that was previously a CF3 2.5.
Just use your CF2 loom and it'll be a straight swap.

I have a spare loom and engine, so if you need anything let me know.
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excellent, thanks for that.

Just wondering what would be the best route to take:

Swap out my other 2.5 (roughly 60,000 mls and not sure when belts where done)

Or

Go for a 3.0?

Any suggestions most welcome.
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If you can get hold of a 3.0, go for it; it's definitely worth it!

You'll need to use your CF2 loom if you get a CF3 3.0, plus keep your 2.5 ECU, engine mounts, MAF, clutch, flywheel and gearbox.
If your clutch is near renewal time, fit a GTA clutch as they are much stronger and only a few quid more. If you can afford it, get a Q2 diff, as you will find traction hard in 1st - 3rd without when you decide to boot it!
Note that on the 3.0 from the 166, you also need to change the upper mount for the engine stabiliser which will involve removing the cambelts and pulleys (good time to fit new ones anyway whilst the engine is out).
You don't need to do this on the 3.0 from the GTV however.


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I've got a cat back system (wizard) on order from Dan, would this still link up with a 3.0?

Either the cf2 or cf3 3.0?

Thanks for the response BTW.
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Yes it will fit, just use your CF2 manifolds.
It doesn't matter whether you use a CF2 or CF3 3.0 as you will be using your loom etc from the 2.5.
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The breather pipe set up is different on the 2 engines, would this cause any problems?
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No, that won't cause any issues.
The plenum on the 166 3.0 is slightly different to the 156, in that it is longer and the inlet is at a different angle.
That won't be a problem to you though, as you have a CF2 and you can use the 2.5's plenum.
The problem comes when going from CF3 2.5 to CF2 3.0 as there is nowhere to mount the oil separator on the CF3 plenum.
I had to use the 3.0 plenum, which makes the inlet ducting very tight.

I also forgot to mention that you need to use the heat exchanger from the 2.5 (the bit that the oil filter bolts onto).
When you have the two engines next to each other, it will be easy to see what needs to be swapped over.
I also had to use my 2.5 fuel rails, but make sure you stick to the 3.0 injectors.
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Cheers for the info Phil, much appreciated.

Let the hunt begin for a 3.0. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions, I'll keep this thread updated.
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Not a problem mate. Happy to help.
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If you're going to that trouble.. why not just fix the head gaskets on your 2.5? It's really not difficult.. just a million pieces to dismantle..

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Because doing a 3.0 conversion is far more worth it in the end.
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Thought about going down that road but I think with already having another 2.5(only 41,000 mls not 60+) or get hold of a good 3.0, then I can do some other jobs before the engine goes back in.

Belts, pulleys, water pump, clutch etc.

Once my poorly engine is out will strip and look at the damage and decide what to do with that one then.

Thanks for the suggestion anyway.
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Hi, is it possible to remove the engine from the top rather than drop it out? I'm at the point where the engine is ready to come out bar the subframe being removed.

From what I can see I just need to get the engine on a hoist and remove the engine mounts and lift it out. I'm I missing something before I go down this route or do I need to remove the subframe and drop it out the bottom?

Thanks
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Not really, unless you took the box off it first which would be almost as much work as dropping the engine & box out from below. When we do it we leave the subframe on, and take the front bumper off and radiator out for access, then the engine & box come out from below together without issue. Its handy as you can always re-bolt up the suspension and roll the car around with no engine & box
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Cheers Dan. I've taken the bumper and radiator out, so what your saying is I can take the weight of the engine, move it forward of the subframe and drop it out?
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Yeah, if you have an engine crane you can support it from above, unbolt it, wiggle it forward and then lower it maybe onto a pallet or a dolly or something placed underneath, without it touching the subframe. An extra pair of hands would help.

The way we do it is with custom-made trolleys, so that we bolt the trolley up to the bottom of the engine/box with the car in the air, then lower the car so the trolley just takes the weight of the engine/box, then unbolt the mounts, wheel the trolley forward 6 inches and then raise the car off the engine/box. Works great

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Nice one. I can work with that. Let the fun begin.
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Originally Posted by Pud237 View Post
Its handy as you can always re-bolt up the suspension and roll the car around with no engine & box
You unbolt the suspension? Never bothered myself to be honest, Dan.

  • Remove coolant, power steering and aircon pipes
  • Remove rad and front bumper
  • Disconnect wiring loom, battery and battery tray
  • Disconnect drive shafts at the cups
  • Remove exhaust downpipes, support engine with crane, undo engine mounts
  • Lower engine slightly then forward, down and out

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Originally Posted by rhysenna View Post
Cheers Dan. I've taken the bumper and radiator out, so what your saying is I can take the weight of the engine, move it forward of the subframe and drop it out?
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We don't split the driveshafts, we take them out complete so upper arm balljoint is undone, driveshaft is out of the hub etc. You can leave them half in but its nice to have the bit of space and not exactly a lot of additional work especially when the car is up on a ramp
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That makes sense.
The way I do it does mean that you do have to do a fair bit of manoeuvring to get the alternator past the off side drive shaft, but that becomes easy once you've done it a few times!
Your way would of course give you a fair bit more space, I've just never found it necessary - especially when working on stands.
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