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Cams

Is it possible to change the cams while the engine is still in the car on a V6?

Thanks
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Yes, its possible. Its basically exactly the same work as cambelt job so it has sense to join these two. Just get the 4 new camshaft seals as these are worth replacing once you are on it.
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No, you do not take the engine out to change the cams. You obviously need to fit a new belt afterwards as you cannot re-tension an old belt. Make sure you do it properly too. 2 x idler pulleys, tensioner and waterpump.
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Cool thanks guys, there are 4 cams right?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeew View Post
Cool thanks guys, there are 4 cams right?
Yes, 2 intake and 2 exhaust cams.

Out of curiosity, why are you changing them? Are you getting performance ones or are yours worn?
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(Post Link) post #6 of 13 Old 20-11-11 Thread Starter
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performance mostly i think they are a bit worn
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Cam wear on the 24V V6 motors is rare I think. Not the case on 12V V6 motors though!
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confusing? how do you know unless u looked at them? in which case you wouldn't be asking about extraction.

i agree - the arese parts are quite high quality - nitrided crank etc...

unlike TS and JTS... esp JTS with known cam lobe wear issues..

they are NOT the same engines. One is ALFA which always had decent metals in their engines, the other is cheapie iron-block fiat lump.
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To be fair, the T/Spark is an Alfa head on a Fiat derived block.. The JTS is an Alfa head on an Alfa-modified, Fiat derived block.

The JTS cams are probably made by a firm different than made the T/Spark cams.. that's all. And probably the firm(s) that made the cams are neither Fiat or Alfa.

Anyhow... you get more cam wear in engines where there is high lift (i.e. performance cams) or more extreme timing, which may affect JTS more than T/Spark, even if everything else was the same.

My 12v engine cams are supposedly notorious for cam-lobe wear.. but when my head gasket failed I measured them all up and they had hardly any wear on them at all (198,000 miles) go figure..

Use good oil... keep the level topped up and change it very regularly.. and let the beast warm up before you boot it.... seems to suit camshafts... whatever they are.

Ralf S.

No bullets for Chaingun..
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You must be the only person I know who never had cam wear on a 12V Ralf - all of the 12V cams I've ever looked at had wear on the exhaust lobes. Some very bad. Ditto for the exhaust lobe followers.

Consider yourself blessed!
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Also never had wear problems with RWD 12v motors but did have wear on my 155 V6.
The GTA inlet cams tend to wear as well.
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I think the US market seems to consdier cams a service item on the 75 V6

There are some good ones, but as I say, every one I've looked at has shown signs of wear, some shocking. Not a massive sample, probably 10 engines, but 10/10 is pretty conclusive. Of course, history is unkown in most cases, so who knows.

Fundametally, the cam setup on the 12v is a flawed design IMV - the lubrication is iffy and can dry out over time, the rockers don't help the load ratio, nor does the smaller lobe compared to inlet. Not so for the inlet lobes on that engine, nor on the 24V engines as all the followers are under oil and are equal size.

But hey, I'm out of 12V engines now and won't be going back to them in this lifetime!.

Last edited by ChrisS; 16-01-12 at 13:40. Reason: typos as usual
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I was definitely fortunate with my 12v’s but most of them were early 80’s so maybe they changed material on the newer motors.
Like I said the GTA inlet cams also tend to wear for some unknown reason and I found that on a couple of 3.2’s. Fortunately not as bad as the TS cams.
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