2.5 V6 engine timing and belt replacement - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 6 Old 31-07-10 Thread Starter
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2.5 V6 engine timing and belt replacement

Hello everyone this is my first post on the Alfa owner forum and I would like to ask for some advice on timing and replacing a timing belt I have owned the 156 for over two years and when I purchased it it had a slight overheating problem in that it crept slightly over 90 at high speed I had it initially checked out on the examiner at a local independent Alfa specialist and informed it was a faulty temp gauge and ignored it.

A week ago the car lost all its coolant the leak coming from the offside and appeared to losing coolant at the rate it was being replaced

I decided to replace the water pump and at the same time belt & tensioners and the crankshaft pulley nut I chiselled it off as it was so tight! I am at the stage now where I have replaced the WP the original WP impeller was plastic and had a very visible 1mm crack across its radius!!

Now in the process of replacing the belt I had camlocks and a DTi gauge in place before i took the belt off but it looks like the needle on the dial has moved 0.01mm 3 degrees during the process should I simply turn the crankshaft back to the original position on the gauge? although how do I know if this was correct originally? Also should the cam lobes fit perfectly in the camlock profile as there seems to be slight movement. Finally can I ask what is the correct method for tensioning the belt.

This is my first attempt at replacing a water pump its a difficult job for a beginner but has given me immerse satisfaction getting this far just don't want to "****" it up in the final straight.

Thanks
Darren
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Yes, you can turn the crank with the camlocks fitted to re-adjust TDC (assuming all the cam pulleys have been undone).

Some info here: How to change an Alfa Romeo V6 Cam Belt

Cheers,

Iain
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(Post Link) post #4 of 6 Old 09-08-10 Thread Starter
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Thanks Chris155 for your excellent guide I have completed the job although the car idles poorly there is a initial ticking noise on pressing the accelerator could this be the tensioner requiring further adjustment? also the engine runs rather lumpy? and the exhaust sounds rather farty as if the A/F ratio is not balanced correctly I had also taken the MAF off during the cambelt change to give it a clean with IPA so i suspect I may have "overdone" it although I will try an ECU reset.

Also I didn't loosen the cam pulleys when fitting the new belt is this critical? the belt appears tight on the sprockets and I can't believe I could have stretched the belt a further notch.
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The idea behind loosening the cam belt pulleys is so that you can apply an even, consistent tension ove the length of the belt. When I 1st did the job I couldn't work out how too release the cam pulleys off their taper lock so I did the same thing as you. I don't think it's absolutely critical but it does depend on the individual circumstances.

With regard to your problem I'd be check the connections to the coil packs and injectors, the condition and colour of the spark plugs and finally the cam timing. I would also refrain from reving it too hard just in case it is cam timing that's causing the problem.
 
(Post Link) post #6 of 6 Old 10-08-10 Thread Starter
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thanks I'll follow your check list did initially attempt to loosen the sprockets but couldn't pull them off the taper started the car this morning and the noise was quite loud more of a regular clattering than a ticking noise sounds like a diesel! the noise virtually disappears when the engine temp reaches around 70C just a slight tick when you press the accelerator and disappears completely >1000rpm wondering if it could a sticky valve lifter as the car has been sat for a couple of months?
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