1.9jtd starting issues - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 15 Old 19-07-10 Thread Starter
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1.9jtd starting issues

Hi all, anyone had a problem with cold starting on a 1.9 jtd (2004) Car is usually difficut to start in the morning or after sitting for a few hours (long time cranking it over), I've done the easy stuff i.e leak off pipes(but not the T-pieces ontop of the injetors) have also done the glowpugs (blind hope!) I'm thinking that the fuel is leaking back? I sometimes turn on the ignition 3-4 times b4 trying to start it, don't think this makes alot of difference though. Previous owner had the alternator and battery replaced (possibly in error due to this problem) Then this numpty bought it! Any pointers much appreciated.
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Do you mean in cold as in now, or as in last winter? My car, a 1.9 jtd struggled in the real cold, needing turning over for a few seconds before it started. If there is anything wrong with your glowplugs, I checked mine during the winter and found no real problems, the dash will tell you and to be fair the engine doesn't rely on the glow plugs like deisel engines of old.
 
(Post Link) post #3 of 15 Old 19-07-10 Thread Starter
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Sorry I mean starting after sitting overnight and after it sitting for 9 hrs at work, even in the hot weather. I just did the GP's any way, and each one I pulled out was good, I knew I was clutching at straws, but the mrs thought I was fixing her car, it kept her quiet for a while.lol
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Have you checked crank sensor? Worth a look
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(Post Link) post #5 of 15 Old 27-07-10 Thread Starter
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Thanks paulies, is it possible to test the crank sensor? Car is now stalling on hill starts, this too would point to crank sensor I think?
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Crank sensor will fail when warm and start from cold, search the forum as there's a crank sensor replacement how to thread somewhere.
Incidentally, On Landrover td5 engines and v8's when we get a crank sensor fail were able to get them started depending on the position of the crank, say after 10 attempted starts, maybe worth trying 5-10 times to see if she'll start.
TBH it does sound like the crank sensor mate.
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(Post Link) post #7 of 15 Old 05-08-10 Thread Starter
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Changed crank sensor today, and it's still difficult to start from cold. took out the map sensor which was totally coked up, so I cleaned it and put it back, although I think it needs a new one. I don't think the map sensor would cause starting probs? Any thoughts gratefully recieved.

Also replaced split hose fron vacuum pump...no difference


Thanks.
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Understand your pain mate, but before spending any more yankie dollars on sensors either get the car read diag wise or buy a diag lead with alfadiag on, see rarebear! Lead will pay for itself in the long run where as getting read will only hurt your pocket.
Without looking at car and symptoms it could be a number of issues so best getting fault codes as next step.
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hello chris
does your car also smoke alot after it fires up?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikstor View Post
hello chris
does your car also smoke alot after it fires up?

There is a bit of smoke, I dont think it's any more than is normal, the car is fine in every other way except for the starting issue. Did 1500 miles in it last week with no problems.
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I know this is an old thread but did you ever sort this problem out? i am having the exact same symptons. Very long time cranking after it has been sitting a while. i too have changed GP and crank sensor and no difference. Think you could be on to something with fuel leaking back as when it does fire there is no or very little smoke so it is clearly not injecting fuel the whole time whilst cranking or there would be a huge plume!
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(Post Link) post #12 of 15 Old 21-02-12 Thread Starter
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Starter motor! After replacing all the injectors on the advice of a garage after leak back tests etc it was still difficult to start. I was about to give up but checked the current that the staerter motor was pulling meter maxed out at 600 amps! Replaced the starter motor, all was good for a while, but its now eaten that one too. Although it was 50 off ebay. Forests & trees
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That's interesting. What should it draw normally? So you got another year and a half out of a second hand one. Do you think it failed again because of an underlying problem or just cus it was old?
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(Post Link) post #14 of 15 Old 22-02-12 Thread Starter
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I think it should be 200-300 amps, can't remember now. The rotor bearing was worn, when I took the old one off I couldn't believe it still turned because of the amount the shaft was slopping around (about 4mm). I can't think what would cause it to fail, other than the alloy rotor bearing being weak, so yes I think it's just cause the replacement is old and used? Any suggestions of what could cause it?

I'm going to put a Refurbed (by Bosch) one on and see how that goes. (if I ever get round to it)
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(Post Link) post #15 of 15 Old 07-03-12 Thread Starter
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Any luck?
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