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(Post Link) post #1 of 12 Old 26-04-10 Thread Starter
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timing question

hi guys...

wonder if any of you have seen this good vid on cam belt changing for the TS...

YouTube - centroricambi's Channel

can you guys pls see the 8th minute? here he appears to be turning the engine with the piston @ TDC... bit then the indicator rises as he turns the crank to a higher point... then as he checks the timing again with the cam blocks the indicator appears to be at the lower position again...

also, while he is turning the crank, why isn't the indicator bobbing showing that he was at TDC, moving it from that point show show the needle dropping right? just wanna make sure i got this conceptually down before i do this myself...

it all made sense till i saw this...

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Agreed there seems to be some discrepancy there. My dial gauge (and all the others I've used) increase clock-wise so in the clip it should not be at a higher reading subsequent to setting TDC. I wonder if the zero has been reset during the filming. There is some movement on the gauge as the piston is moved away from TDC but his arm obscures that movement. You'll also need to see how the tensioner is set at maximum before the engine is rotated through two complete rotations and then the tensioner is set with the indicator pointing at the centre of the hole in the back-plate.
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When doing mine at the weekend, I used the dial gauge in combination with the marks on the lower cam cover and the Auxillary belt pulley.

That way it is easy to see at a glance if the crank has moved.
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(Post Link) post #4 of 12 Old 27-04-10 Thread Starter
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ok stupid follow up....

if you are at the belt off stage, doing timing, variator etc... is it that big of a deal to remove the head and replace the head gasket?

plan on also doing the big ends w/ standard shells - all in one hit...

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joe
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It wouldn't be too difficult to remove the head, most people remove the sump and replace the shells from the bottom without removing the head though.
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oh i know, the big ends are sump jobbies, but i was gunna remove the head to clean the pistons and chambers and do a general inspect (2nd hand car) and replace the head gasket with the goetze composite head gasket...
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If it ain't broke...
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What symon said. If you take the head off you risk all kinds of problems, head warping, scratching the surfaces, damaging the gasket, blah blah. If the head is tight, leave it.

Also why replace big end bearings? Same reasons!
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I can sort of understand why someone would want to replace the big end shells, especially if you think it has had a belt snap or been run low on oil in the past.

But a head gasket either leaks or it doesn't, and chances are the pistons and valves will not be too dirty anyway as all fuels since around 1995 have had cleaning detergents in them.
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thanks guys.... maybe my prejudices have been built up from 12v 2.5 alfa engines (and the old 2.0 nord)... i'd expect after 10 yrs and almost 100k, that the original HG would be about done....

symon is spot on about the big ends... both items only cost around 40 quid, i see that as cheap insurance?

maybe it's over kill.... apart from removing fuel rail TB (which i will be cleaning) and disconnecting the PS reservoir and intake manifold - on the face of it, does not seem to be too much work to remove the head after you've locked the cams and removed the belts/tensioners... just saying... (varitor is a cam out PITA job itself, so it's not like the major belt/pump/variator job is quick or easy)

I ask to find if i'm way off here and there is a lot more work involved, and if anyone has done it... etc...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wankski View Post
... i'd expect after 10 yrs and almost 100k, that the original HG would be about done....
That would be wishful thinking or do you know all the history of that engine?
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(Post Link) post #12 of 12 Old 28-04-10 Thread Starter
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haha, i know nothing of it, hence the "break it apart and see what's what approach!"
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