2.0 JTS poor tickover and hesitancy - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 26 Old 25-03-10 Thread Starter
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2.0 JTS poor tickover and hesitancy

Hiya,

I've recently picked up a GT 2.0 JTS and I've got an annoying niggle with the engine tickover.

Most of the time when the engine ticks over every 3 or 4 seconds there will be a slight lurch of the engine. If sitting in the car you can actually feel through the seat. When driving there is also a hesitancy for the engine to pick up again when changing gear (most noticable in low gears). I did take it for an Alfa guru to look at, and without putting a rig on, they felt it might be to do with a bad connection in plastic wiring loom block (the one that sits at the top of the engine just under the windscreen edge) as this can be a weak spot on the JTS.

I was on the verge of just living with it except that.....on some occasions its as if everything clicks into place. The engine runs as smooth as silk, it genuinly feels faster too, much more eager to pick up. After experiencing how it should be I'm keen to get the problem fixed.

Has anyone else experienced anything like this, and did you fix it and also how did you fix it.

Many thanks
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sounds like classic JTS connection issue, the engine loom connectors are a main issue also the pre-cat lambda sensor connector blocks would also help things... The slight wobble at idle is more the lambda connectors...
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Any mileage in me opening the connectors and reseating them? (I know this can sometimes do wonders for a PC but thats a much more delicate piece of equipment)?

Oh and I guess I'd need to discaoonect the battery before trying that too.
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There isnt a need to dis the battery but is good working practise, Reseating them might work for a short while but the only true fit is to solder them.
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Looks like I'll need to get this sorted then. I'm kinda hoping its not a big (expensive) job. Many thanks for the guidance.
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So, earlier on I had a fiddle with the connector, making sure it was firmly pushed home. Then I went for a bit of a razz. Happy to report that so far its fixed the problem, question is for how long.

Best guesses below gents (if you feel like it) and I'll post again when it starts playing up again (hopefully a long time away)

Cheers!
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Well the problem came back this morning, no build up or anything, just there from the moment I started the car. It was a very wet and damp morning, but not sure if this would have any affect.

I may try doing this again but seeing if I can slightly crimp the female connectors, make it a tighter fit (not looked at the connectors in the plastic block, Iím assuming they are standard male/female in design).

Iíll let you know how this goes.
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I dont like having to solder connections especially on the lambda side as a right PITA if you wanted to change lambda and just plug out the in the new one. I found electrical spray works well. Take the plug apart, use plenty of the spray and clean any connectors you can. I've done this for that engine block connection and also the lambdas.
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Useful tip, many thanks. I know I'm being a bit dim, but whats an electrical spray?
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Electrical contact spray. Pick it up in most diy shops or halfords. Not sure what the contents are though, a quick google will tell me though.
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Well after the return of the problem the other day it has since gone away again (with no intervention from me). The car was fine driving home from work the same day and its been fine ever since (even this morning when it was cold, damp and the car covered in a layer of sleet). Probably goes to show how flakey that electrical connecter can be.

So in summary, the car was running lumpy about 80% of the time. I then reseated the plug (and thats all I did). Ever since then its run fine 90% of the time.

Not sure how big (or expensive) a job soldering the cables together would be, but as an interim fix there does seem to be some merit to just reseating the plug.
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hi.I want to ask you for what can i do for my exhaust in alfa romeo 2.0 jts.And how many horsepower i'll have if i change her.thanks
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Originally Posted by alfa4eva View Post
hi.I want to ask you for what can i do for my exhaust in alfa romeo 2.0 jts.And how many horsepower i'll have if i change her.thanks
Sorry I don't know. You might get more replies if you start a new thread about this.
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hi had similar problem on my v6. turned out it was taking in air through[dont know proper name] big black plastic air flow pipe on top of engine. above airfilter and maf unit. you might want to check for any splits in it . nice easay job. taped and glued mine up, gwd as new.
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hi.I want to ask you for what can i do for my exhaust in alfa romeo 2.0 jts.And how many horsepower i'll have if i change her.thanks
Probably the same as you have now with the standard zoorst ... maybe one or two more horses with no cat, but the quotes don't usually match reality.
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OK so after about a fortnight things had deteriorated back to where they were when I started. A quick fiddle with the connector block at the back of the engine and all is well again. But this only lasted for 2 weeks last time, probably only last that long this time too. Thats a bit too short for my liking, think I'll have to see about getting the wires soldered.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhogan View Post
OK so after about a fortnight things had deteriorated back to where they were when I started. A quick fiddle with the connector block at the back of the engine and all is well again. But this only lasted for 2 weeks last time, probably only last that long this time too. Thats a bit too short for my liking, think I'll have to see about getting the wires soldered.
Where abouts is the connector located, i think I need to have a go at mine!

I have started feeling a slight hesitancy in my GT JTS as it picks up - a little like a flat spot which then clears one revs are above 2000 RPM.
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Hmm, lets see if I can describe where it is.

As you look at the engine, the plastic connector block sits in between the far side of the engine and the bulkhead. It should look like two wiring looms joined by a plastic connector block and should be attached to a bracket mounted on the engine. The block shoould be vertical (one loom comes in the top, and the other leaves through the bottom). On mine there is a slider clip that I have to slide out before I can seperate the connector.

I'm not an expert (far from it) but I'm not sure your syptoms match mine, so no idea if it would help.

Hope that helps
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From experience just solder the buggers, for someone with the ability to solder and a large enough soldering iron to do the lambda and the rear loom connector isnt more than an hours work... and if you do need to disconnect them or remove the engine 99% of the loom can be left in the car... honestly the change you see in the car is very noticable...
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My JTS had a similar problem recently which turned out to be an ignition loom issue
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My JTS had a similar problem recently which turned out to be an ignition loom issue
Same issue...
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As a technical person with alfas i would suggest that an erratic idle and your other symptom could be (depending if youre over 40.000 miles) a worn variator since if its in the 'off' position you'll run very rich at idle, or simply youve accumulated too much carbon on your inlet and exhaust valves as i have in the past. I have had to do a full cylinder head rebuild which is basically a good clean. However there is something you can buy which is called seafoam. this frees up the valves in their guides and leads to them no longer sticking. The best diagnostic advice I can give is to look for wear on your inlet and exhaust cam lobes. They will start to round if you have sticky valves. this is most easilly evident where there is no shamfer on the edge of the cam apex. I only give this advice if remaking ALL of your electrical connections fail to solve your problem. Electrical contact cleaner works miracles. Especially with the connectors for the four lambdas and the maf. Theres no such thing as luck only methodology. Eliminate all other faults and your solution will make itself known.
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PS. dont solder your lambdas. it makes no difference. you just need to know if they are functioning within tolerance which a decent alfa specialist can do. All soldering achieves is a good electrical contact, which the connectors should achieve anyway. Another thing to check is the egr valve for its functionality. Failing all of this chances are its your throttle body stepper motor. (might be worth a try cleaning the throttle body with some carb cleaner spray. Hope this helps. Lots to think about, but it will usually be sorted out for less wonga than you expect.
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PS. dont solder your lambdas. it makes no difference. you just need to know if they are functioning within tolerance which a decent alfa specialist can do. All soldering achieves is a good electrical contact, which the connectors should achieve anyway. Another thing to check is the egr valve for its functionality. Failing all of this chances are its your throttle body stepper motor. (might be worth a try cleaning the throttle body with some carb cleaner spray. Hope this helps. Lots to think about, but it will usually be sorted out for less wonga than you expect.
Not true after soldering my precat lambda's my idle became rock steady and no hunting and all hesitation disappered... And this was after a full rebuld...top and bottom... I did this after a lengthy disscusion with Gus (aka Alfatuner)
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hi everyone I am new here and significantly non technical, i have a 3 year old alfa gt 1.9jtd that has recently started creating a flat spot when revved to just about 2000 rpm, it just feels sluggish, once over that it seems to be fine, it comes and goes but mostly stays, could my alfa dealer (car still under warranty) fix this in a day - they are 2 1/2 hours away. Will it damage the car to drive it to the dealer? Thanks in advance
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