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(Post Link) post #1 of 69 Old 12-01-10 Thread Starter
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permanent 2.0jts solution

i have been searching this for months...i have collected a lot of information and i need you to help me pou this together....direct injection engines have problems with inlet manifold- valve deposits...
-i have seen most of audi engines with carbon build up which is a massive problem all audi owners face(direct injection again).there solution as i have read is to fit an oil catch can to prevent oil vapour getting into the engine....
-getting to alfa again i have heard that early engines like mine 2002(2.0jts 156engine) are suffering from this problem....mine seems to have it as it seems that it pulls only about 100bhp....
-some people have decided that changing the inlet camshaft and ecu update will solve the problem(post 2004 jts engines had this update by alfa romeo)but 2002-2004 had the old ecu and cam.
-spectial machinery (chemicals)can be used to clean the engine but then again after 6 months you will have the same problem(no solution there)
- my car burns oil can this affect carbon build up?(new piston ring will solve oil consumtion problem??)
i am prepared to rebuild the engine to Permanent fix this problem.please give me your advice.

key pointsil catch can,ecu-inletcam,piston rings.
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Give Gus aka Alfatuner a ring and ask his advice...
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i have talked to him a month ago and he had given me some advice on how to clean the engine (which i havn't done yet) but now i am looking for a permanent solution.....i know "biffa"you have done a lot of work to your engine....have you suffered from this?have you made any changes to your engine?
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sorry biffa but i haven't received your pm as my inbox was full....cleared it now....if you would like to send it again(sorry for that)....
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Possible to keep any interesting stuff in the forums and not just via pm's if ye dont mind please. Easiest way to clean it? Much work in doing so, never actually opened an engine up...
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There are chemical cleaners available but Gus form alfatuner knows more than me as i did it the convensional way and cleaned it whilst i had it stripped down doing the rebuild.
During the clean and rebuild the only changes i made was to make the ports smoother with a dremel, i dont expect it makes a masive if any preformance change be mad it eastier to clean... Parafin seem to do the trick, if can get enough to dip and soke the head over a night or two i will speed things up...

Daryl- what are you symptoms?
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daryl:have you had any problems with your engine?what is your millage??
biffa:how was the engine when you opened it??(regarding carbon,on valves,manifold,head)what is your millage after rebuild??any loss in power?
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Hey, no symptoms really but always curious about anything JTS related. Mileage is 80,140 ish

Flat spot around 2k revs but thats nothing to do with a coaked up engine. How long to strip the engine to get at the inlets? Any gaskets need replacing once you have it opened up?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petros4x4 View Post
biffa:how was the engine when you opened it??(regarding carbon,on valves,manifold,head)what is your millage after rebuild??any loss in power?
Mileage was 78k miles, i cant say i remember and power issues just that it seemed very flat on power it had alway been like it. But since the rebuild i havnt taken he over 3000rpm as i'm running her in, there are improvement even just upto 3k rpm...

There was a huge build up, check me rebuild thread i have posted pic's (biffa's JTS ill going 70 on M4)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfa_Daryl View Post
Hey, no symptoms really but always curious about anything JTS related. Mileage is 80,140 ish

Flat spot around 2k revs but thats nothing to do with a coaked up engine. How long to strip the engine to get at the inlets? Any gaskets need replacing once you have it opened up?
If your going to remove the head its a good mornings work for somone who hasnt done it before make sure the injectors are unplugger before you try to lift off the head. as far as gaskets are conserned i'd buy the full head set and change all that you can as this in my opinion is best practice and the difference in cost is same if you buying more than a head gasket anyway...
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(Post Link) post #10 of 69 Old 13-01-10 Thread Starter
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i will remove the head and the inlet manifold tomorrow with my mechanic....any advice??i am thinking to remove the manifold first(its easier isn't it??) to see what is going on....and the procced.thank you for your advice....so i will need a complete head gasket set for that...
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Its very difficult to remove the inlet manifold bolts whilst the head is in the car on a JTS. The PAS Res is a PITA too, try to suck as much fluid out first. The injector conectors are easy to forget and they can onlt really easily be reached from under the car, the manifold suport is also easier from below with extra long extensions. Be carefull of the CAM shaft sensor cable it takes the long way round if you know what i mean. Remove the cam shafts too to make sure you dont bend the valves when you remove the head...It really wasnt that hard to remove...
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Sounds like something I should of had checked when I had the belts done last time round, only another 20k to go!
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well if your car feels as fast as a 2.0 twin spark then the engine is at very good condition.......my car now feels and performs like a 1.6t.s......something like 120bhp.......so its not ok:P!
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I've soldered the preCAT lambda's and the results are a deffinate improvement, it idles smoother it rev's easier and the power is in all gears from idle. Knowing my engine to already feel better after the rebuild this has put the cream and cherry on top...

Method is to split connections, on the lambda's side using a hacksaw blade score the base of the socket and brake off the socket cover, using a soldering iron (i found my gas solder iron to be better than my mains one as it holds the heat better) tin the spade connections, then in turn snip strip and tin the loom connetions off the plug and solder them to the correct spade Dont for get to slip the heat shrink sleeve on before you solder...
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why it does't show it with check engine??
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Because unless they are really bad the post cat lambda's compensate for the pre cat one's...
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this is getting very interesting now. i haven't opened the engine but i have used direct injection power 3 aerosol by wynn's.....you spray it into the air intake to clean the inlet valves and manifold egr valve......it does the trick as the car gained alot of its lost power...so the problem is upto carbon deposites clearly now....its is not full power yet but i will spray once again in 3000miles and the car will be close to full power again.....so you can use this spray and the solution together every 6000-8000miles to ensure your engine stays clean.
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To list the process so far, after a bigend failure i striped the engine down. My intention wasnt to do the head but after seeing the condtion of the valves and the ports i thought i might as well clean them... So after the rebuild i saw imediate improvment but there was still a little roughness in the idle, i had already spoken to gus and he made some suggestions and i follow through with these and now the car has more power again and idles smoother and there is an improved throttle responce...

If i was to do this again without having to rebuild the engine i would
1. Solder the precat lambda's
2. I would remove the head and clean it propely
3. when cash alows get gus to remap it for me ( not needed but a would like )
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have you got any pictures of post cat lambda mod? cheers
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Recommended tools and supplies are:
Gas soldering iron or an iron with a large tip (hold heat better)
Solder,
Heat shrink sleeving,
Hacksaw to cut connector outer cover
Wire cutter/stippers
and a hot airgun/paint stripper


Quote:
Originally Posted by rashskitz View Post
have you got any pictures of post cat lambda mod? cheers
I'll try to sort one out this week.

Ever since i've had the JTS its hunted at idle but since the lambdas were soldered its sorted that out a treat...
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yeah nice one id like to try it on mine - im having power loss issues - changed maf ect still feels a little bit down so would like to try lambdas - had ecu read recently and had 2 lambdas after maf showing as faulty
cheers biffa
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my solution cost 5 and 5 minutes, my TS is 10 years old, sprayed the MAF sensor with electrical contact cleaner, bingo, its like a rocket again. I did the head 2 years ago, ground the valves back, lapped them in reskimmed etc etc it felt real good knowing it would go great for years, this cleaner has put it back to its former glory
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please i need a help .i have an alfa romeo 146 with engine 1.6 i replace the engine with 2.0 can any one tell me how to make the egr valve work on the new engine since the ecu haven't a plug for the egr sensor
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you need to get a wiring loom, engine ecu from the doner car, also if your taking the engine ecu you will need the code box and immobilizer chips from the keys.
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thanks for info,some freind tell me if the new engine 2.0 haven't the egr plug simply take off the egr and put something in the two hole to close it well and then returned back ,is that right ? or there is other solutions? please help
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