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jay w
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Cambelt change on a V6

i am currently on the look out for a V6 engined Alfa, it's most likely going to be a 166...

Now having read all the thread there seems to be this great mistique about doing a cambelt change on a V6.

At the risk of sounding blasee what it is about the V6 that makes doing a cam belt so difficult?

I have done Vauxhall's V6 a few times' it was a job that required precision and re-adjustment as it had a number of tensioners, the water pump needed changing as well but that's about it.

now i have no doubt that someone will read this and go there is a lot of difference between the engine, that's as maybe, but the principle of fitting a cam belt is the same the world over, accuracy, tension and correct torque settings.

I know that locking tools are required, and so that makes the first cambelt change a little dearer, but once those have been bought it gets cheaper from there on
 
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The "hard bit" is simply the amout of time it takes imo. You need to remove the rocker covers to lock the cams and that involves a lot of stripping (removing the inlet manifold is time consuming). Another issue is that there the pulleys/ tensioners are fairly close to the inner wing (or chassis leg?) and they need changed, working in tight areas usually takes a lot longer. You might want to change the waterpump wile you're at it, I stand to be corrected here but only the 3.0 V6 GTV came with metal impellors as standard.
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I stand to be corrected here but only the 3.0 V6 GTV came with metal impellors as standard.
That is correct, only the GTV 3.0 got the metal pump, all the other 24v V6 got the plastic pump.
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I picked up a Quinton Hazel metal impellor pump for my car for £59 on ebay.

Mine does already have the metal impellor, but as it has done 107k its probaly best to change it anyway.


All I need to do now if find the time (and reasonable weather) to get on with the job, I have all the parts in a box ready including tensioner tools, cam locks, dial gauge and extension and a windy gun for undoing the crank nut..
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I picked up a Quinton Hazel metal impellor pump for my car for £59 on ebay.

Mine does already have the metal impellor, but as it has done 107k its probaly best to change it anyway.


All I need to do now if find the time (and reasonable weather) to get on with the job, I have all the parts in a box ready including tensioner tools, cam locks, dial gauge and extension and a windy gun for undoing the crank nut..
Windy gun didnt touch my crank nut when I did it...

..but a cheap 12v battery powered impact wrench / gun did it first time! Would recommend to anyone doing this job...
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I paid a guy to do mine, I just didn't fancy it myself, clutch or gearbox, no worries, and the above mentioned inlet on the V6 is a cinch, but my fat fingers and the limited space on a 156...
As to the w/pump even with a metal impellor the bearings will wear out...My guy wouldn't do mine unless I changed the pump too.....
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Windy gun didnt touch my crank nut when I did it...

..but a cheap 12v battery powered impact wrench / gun did it first time! Would recommend to anyone doing this job...
I have one of those as well.

Borrowing the windy gun from work was for the "Belt and braces" approach.
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Windy guns vary enormously. Mine couldn't shift the nut on a Lancia twin cam so had to drag the whole engine down to the local tyre fitting place - 10 seconds later and it's off. Keep the things well oiled and remember a £30 job from Machine Mart cannot be the same as a £300 thing from Snap-on...
 
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I just use my massive strength to open nuts.
 
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When you get one why not just have a trip to Wiltshire and get our local expert to do it for you. He did my 166 that crank nut was a pig though, he drilled it off in the end and fitted a new one, think he has an impact wrench now, if not you can borrow my DeWalt haven't managed to beat it yet
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i have an 18V snap on windy gun that so far hasn't met it's match, that not to say it wont in the future

I was toying with asking our wiltshire friend if he would have a looky, it will really depend on my available time and funds
 
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The one I have here is an Ingersol-Rand

It has yet to meet its match at work and we use some pretty big nuts and bolts. The biggest we have used is M42 (Thread size not head size)
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Ok, enough willy waving on the impact wrenches
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Ok, enough willy waving on the impact wrenches
Feeling inadequate?
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Feeling inadequate?
He is jealous that the one I have is bigger then his.


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My Clarke one wouldn't budge the crank bolt from a TS yesterday. But, neither did a big breaker-bar, so it much be on hella tight! I was using a non-impact socket though, and didn't want to wreck the one I was abusing.

And yes, I was turning it the right way!

Admittedly, reading its Nm-rated torque (450) as foot-pounds (332) was a bit of a mistake
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Why does the pulley need to go off?
When i changed the belt on my 155 ts i just pushed new belt around the pulley onto the toothed wheel.
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Why does the pulley need to go off?
When i changed the belt on my 155 ts i just pushed new belt around the pulley onto the toothed wheel.
The TS is a bit different.

In both cases though it is only the auxillary belt pulley that has to come off, however on the V6 is is held by a large nut, where as the TS has 4 Ribe head bolts.

It is the large nut holding the Aux pulley that is the issue.
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Changed the cambelt myself recently without any previous cambelt experience, so it's not impossible! I would however be fairly familiar with the engine at this stage having replaced sparks and other jobs previously.

The aux pulley nut is an issue. The pulley has to come off as you can't access the cambelt otherwise. I used a 3/4 drive breaker bar and the nut came off easily enough to my pleasant surprise. But I then needed to buy a pulling tool to get the actual pulley off as it was jammed tight.

Its difficult to get at the water pump on the 156 (you might have more space on the 166 though). To remove the water pump pulley I had to loosen the front engine mount and lower the engine slightly using a jack for support.

As long as you have the right tools (allen keys, lots of spanners, cam locks, tensioning tool, cam pulley holder etc) and are methodical, and have some experience with spanners it is doable. But it took me a very long number of hours to finish (I'd estimate about 24 in total.. over 4 weekends!).

hope that helps..

Gav.

Last edited by GavinH; 02-01-10 at 11:51.
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On the 12v, you can sneak the belt through a miniscule gap at the crank pulley end. First time matey mechanic did it... then second time when I was wondering how the hell I was going to get the crank pully off, I remembered matey mechanic had done it without removing the pulley... and sure enough, you can just stuff the belt into the gap with no ill effects.


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