AO Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The land that Time forgot
If the system was leaking coolant out of the cap, then it's because the pressure inside the system had passed 1.4 Bar (blue cap is it?) or whatever pressure is needed to activate the release valve.
You ONLY get high pressure in the system if there is gas in it, so;
1) You have an air-lock, or
2) You have a head gasket problem.
Forget the fan(s) ... your fans work. The car overheats because it has no coolant in it, or can't circulate what it does have. Any further discussion about fans is irrelevant.
The hose being split could be a result of the pressure in the system... more likely it was damaged by being taken off (if I read that right) .. the standard clips are not easy to remove and probably the metal cut the hose which was then weak and split under pressure.
Job Number 1: Replace the hose. Use new clips.
Job Number 2: Get the air out of the system. With a cold engine (Saturday morning job) take the cap off the reservoir and squeeze the hoses. This will tell you if the hoses are empty or not (you'll feel the coolant in the hoses and the reservoir level will go up and down as you squeeze).
Add a 50:50 mix of coolant and water (use the same colour stuff as you have in there now.. probably the new pink stuff. Don't mix green/blue and pink types). Pour it into the reservoir so the level rises to about 1" off the Max mark. Squeeze the hoses.. that'll suck coolant into the bowels of the system. Add more coolant to that minus-1" point.
If there is a radiator bleed screw on the back of the rad (top left or top right) loosen it off slowly until air or coolant comes out. One or the other WILL come out. If/when coolant comes out, the rad' is bled. Don't take the screw all the way out, otherwise when coolant comes ******* out, it'll be difficult to put the screw back in. It's not fatal.. just messy.
Add more coolant to that minus-1" point. Squeeze the hoses some more. The level in the reservoir should drop and you should hear the coolant being sucked in to the system. When the level doesn't drop any more, we're almost done.
With the cap off, start the engine and set the heater to MAX and put the fan on. This will make coolant circulate through the heater and push any air out of there. Leave it for a few minites until warm air starts to come out of the heater. Job done. Turn the engine off.
Top up the reservoir to Max. Replace the cap. Have a cup of tea and a bacon sarnie.
Start the beast up and take it for a short drive. Don't go tooooo far in case it blows up but drive around enough for the car to warm right up. Open the heater as well.. give the system a good work out. Make sure the beast doesn't overheat.. but also that it warms up and stays warmed up (neither too cold or too hot.. i.e. working properly).
Arrive home, leave the engine running while you put the kettle on and wait until the fan comes on. Switch off, have a cup of tea and let the beast cool right down.
Many hours later (stone cold engine) have a peak under the bonnet. Coolant should be at Max still, though if it isn't take the cap off and top it up a bit. There should be no coolant leaked out of the reservoir cap and no leaks anywhere (especially hoses etc.). Repeat the quick drive around to warm it up and then let it cool down again until the coolant doesn't go down any more.
If the coolant is being pushed out of the cap still, there is still gas in the system. When the beast is still hot, touch the rad (don't put your fingers through the fan) to see if it's cold. If it is, when the engine cools down, bleed the radiator again and top up the coolant.
Basically you want to get it to a stable condition, repeating the bleed-top up-drive routine until the beast is sorted (should take one or two attempts) or it becomes clear you keep getting a gas lock.
Persistent gas lock would suggest a head gasket. You won't always get the CO detector giving you an indication as the ECU will be doing a fine job of burning whatever's in there. My h/g had a split 4" long in it and that didn't give any gas-in-coolant indication.
Hopefully it's just a combination of not-properly bled/topped up system that a quick tinker can sort. The system is self purging of air, so in theory at least it's a simple job to get air out.
Waterpump: I don't think so, yet. There's so many other variables that are way more likely.
No bullets for Chaingun..