10w30 for JTS 2.0? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 23 Old 25-06-09 Thread Starter
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10w30 for JTS 2.0?

Hi,

The garage guy made a mistake and filled 10w30 instead of 10w60!!
I could have got it replaced with 10w60 right away. But guy said that it's waste of money and it won't break anything. He promised to replace it at half of price in autumn instead.

What do you think? Is it safe enough to drive like 5000km?
My car is 156 JTS 2.0. Which requires 10w60 to be used *only*.
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I seriously wouldn't risk it and would get it drained and replaced.

The 156 2.0 JTS unit is very sensitive to Engine Oil. I had one and I had to keep on top of the oil levels even with the correct spec (Selenia 10W-60 or Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 Edge).

Mine burned a lot of oil (fairly common with the JTS) hence the reason for the thicker, 10w-60 grade.

Heaven knows how quick she'll burn through a thinner spec which consequently can leave your engine starved of oil, seizure and a costly rebuild.

If the mechanic got it wrong, he should be draining and refilling with the correct spec at no extra charge to you.
 
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What Kalel said..

There is a large difference between 10w-30 and 10w-60 in terms of thickness when hot.

You would probably get away with a 10w-50 but 10w-30 is just too thin.

Even TS engines that are specced with a 10w-40 don't seem to like 10w-30 very much.
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What they both said. Get it replaced straight away.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalel View Post
I seriously wouldn't risk it and would get it drained and replaced.

The 156 2.0 JTS unit is very sensitive to Engine Oil. I had one and I had to keep on top of the oil levels even with the correct spec (Selenia 10W-60 or Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 Edge).

Mine burned a lot of oil (fairly common with the JTS) hence the reason for the thicker, 10w-60 grade.

Heaven knows how quick she'll burn through a thinner spec which consequently can leave your engine starved of oil, seizure and a costly rebuild.

If the mechanic got it wrong, he should be draining and refilling with the correct spec at no extra charge to you.
Precisely. The spec in the JTS is 10w-60 for a reason, get it changed and don't pay for it.
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A local indy bunged 10w40 in my JTS and it did just burn it for the fun. Unfortunalty I only found out after taking it on a trackday. never used so much oil in my life.
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(Post Link) post #7 of 23 Old 25-06-09 Thread Starter
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The noticeable problem with 10w30 in JTS engine would be heat indicator goes higher.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seongtaek View Post
The noticeable problem with 10w30 in JTS engine would be heat indicator goes higher.
I would have thought it would run cooler.

The thinner oil causes less drag and less heat.

It is still wrong though it needs to be changed.

Last edited by symon; 25-06-09 at 21:16.
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Yes true. It's wrong and I am planned to replace it on Tuesday.
The engine sounds/accelerates fine though.
I think oil will be eaten by engine and burned much quicker than 10w60. I think this would be the real problem.
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Change it straight away, it will probally be all gone by tuesday I ran my JTS on 10w 40 for a while when i couldnt get 10w 60 and i swear it used more oil than petrol seriously though get it changed ASAP it will may cause damage, and dont pay for it.....
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(Post Link) post #11 of 23 Old 28-06-09 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richjts View Post
Change it straight away, it will probally be all gone by tuesday I ran my JTS on 10w 40 for a while when i couldnt get 10w 60 and i swear it used more oil than petrol seriously though get it changed ASAP it will may cause damage, and dont pay for it.....
Thanks for your input. In Finland it's not that easy to get a new time for oil change (yes it SUCKS). So I gotta wait a bit.
I am careful to drive. But I've done like 200km already. I checked engine oil gauge this morning before starting the engine (engine being cool and showing correct amount of oil).

Actually it didn't eat the oil yet at all.

But yes a bit darker.
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Can you not buy a filter and some oil and change it yourself?

It is very easy to do on a JTS, as the filter is at the front.
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Just got 5 litres of selenia 10/60 for 20 quid from someone i know
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(Post Link) post #14 of 23 Old 28-06-09 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symonh View Post
Can you not buy a filter and some oil and change it yourself?

It is very easy to do on a JTS, as the filter is at the front.
Hi,

Do I need a special tool or can I open a drain screw by spanner?
Would love to do the maintenance at my own side. As don't wanna be cheated by garage guys anymore

Today I just found my engine room bottom cover isn't correctly fitted after they've done some lower wishbone job



I bought Castrol TWS 10w 60 which is claimed to be for BMW M series. I've been reading threads about this. Some say this is a differently packaged Castrol sport edge 10w 60. But Some says that TWS has some "engine protector?" which sport edge doesn't have.

What you guys use?

Alfa Romeo 156 2.0 JTS 2003 SW
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The castrol TWS should be ok. Does it carry API specs such as API SL or any ACEA specs. It should do..

You don't think you need special tools to change the oil, although you will need to see whther your sump plug has a hex cutout or a Ribe and get one that fits.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seongtaek View Post
I bought Castrol TWS 10w 60 which is claimed to be for BMW M series. I've been reading threads about this. Some say this is a differently packaged Castrol sport edge 10w 60. But Some says that TWS has some "engine protector?" which sport edge doesn't have.
Castrol TWS will be fine.
It is comparable to Castrol Edge 10W60, not Edge Sport 10W60.
Edge Sport 10W60 is comparable to Castrol RS 10W60.
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You might need a filter strap or similar as they can stick tight .. unless you use the old tried and trusted, but messy method, and drive a screwdriver through the filter. But there isn't much room to work between engine and rad. I used to use the chain-type, but I've just invested in the Draper one with three legs that adjusts to fit as you tighten it onto the filter body (had to buy it to get the filter off our Clio!) and it's the dogs danglies ...
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I use the rubber strap type.
It actually came from Tescos for jam jar lids, but was liberated from the kitchen while she was out and never went back in...

The screwdriver method has the downside that if it still won't shift after you have stuck it through, you are screwed...!
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I have a cup type removal tool that I bought specially for Alfa/Fiat Filters

It was only £4 from ebay IIRC, the only thing is it will only work on genuine filters.
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(Post Link) post #20 of 23 Old 30-06-09 Thread Starter
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After changing oil back to 10w 60 I found the engine/exhaust sounds slightly lower. I felt 10w 30 provided a bit faster acceleration but maybe just a feeling
I saw nasty 10w 30 was being changed and it was pretty dark already (done like 200km)

Also another thing is that 10w 30 seems to consume more gasoline than 10w 60 according to "actual fuel consumption" shown on monitor (checked in different situations)

Last edited by seongtaek; 30-06-09 at 06:50.
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10W30 oil would be thinner probably allowing the engine to rev more freely, but once up to temp it would be more likely to get too thin to protect the bearings, etc.
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Once I've killed my JTS by using 10W40 on a track day. it just has burned away too quickly
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I have changed from Castrol Edge 10W60 to Gulf 10W60, consumption is definitely now better (less). It actually feels thicker despite being the same grade.
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