TS timing and belt change - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 13 Old 01-09-17 Thread Starter
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TS timing and belt change

I've finally got everything I need for changing my TS timing belt, except a torque wrench, cam pulley lock tool and larger sockets.

Before I start trying to find tools to borrow this weekend, would there be any problem with bolting on the cam lock tools, marking the block and crank pulley and just doing the belt, tensioner and pump and not re-setting the timing? I guess the timing should be the same as when the current belt was fitted and I'd rather get the work done ASAP as the last recorded belt change was over 120,000 miles ago! I can do the timing at a later date as I won't need to remove the belt to do it.
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Get the engine to TDC using your dial gauge (or long screwdriver/suitable stick) and see if the cam locks bolt on. If they do, the timing is correct (as it should be) and you can go ahead, change the belt, set the tension, and check all's well by removing the cam locks, rotating the engine a few times, getting it back to TDC and refitting the cam locks. If that's all good, then job done.

Of course if the cam locks don't fit at the start, then you'll need to loosen the cam pulleys. If you're confident in improvising with whatever tools you have to hand then no big deal. Otherwise, you'll need the correct tools. From memory, one of the cam pulleys (inlet cam I think) is held on with 4 cap screws or similar, so no need to hold the pulley to undo those. Just the exh cam one.

It's all pretty straightforward really, you're just replacing a toothed rubber drive belt and associated bits, not performing brain surgery.
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(Post Link) post #3 of 13 Old 02-09-17 Thread Starter
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Can't do anything on it as the water pump was due today, and hasn't arrived. I did check the tensioner and it's almost as tight as it can be (that little lever is up pretty much as far as it goes), so seems there's little to no stretch on the belt. Teeth look good and everything is clean under the cover. Tensioner looks like the new and not as liable to fall apart type. I'm going to wait until next week when I can take it to a garage and use tools, ramps and not be laying on the ground trying to wiggle belts into place in the rain.
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Make sure you have a tool suitable for removing the fixed tensioner on the auxillary belt. You cannot get a socket on it due to the chassis rail being in the way, and a standard ring spanner won't get in far enough.

You either need to modify a socket by cutting the square drive off and then welding a bar on top, or find a recessed ring spanner.

Also I found the mark on the lower cam cover and mark on the auxillary belt pully a more accurate method of finding TDC than with the DTI gauge.

There is a dwell on the dial gauge at TDC that corresponds to quite a few degrees of rotation at the crank.

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You can't correctly set the tension without locking the cams and loosening the pulleys.
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(Post Link) post #6 of 13 Old 02-09-17 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pud237 View Post
You can't correctly set the tension without locking the cams and loosening the pulleys.
That's what I thought may be the case. I have the cam lock tools, but no torque wrench or pulley holding tool. I'm doing the job at a garage rather than driveway as my jack doesn't go high enough for comfortable access underneath so will have use of all the tools I need. May as well do it right first time rather than on the new engine after I balls the job up first time round.

Quote:
Originally Posted by symon View Post
Make sure you have a tool suitable for removing the fixed tensioner on the auxillary belt. You cannot get a socket on it due to the chassis rail being in the way, and a standard ring spanner won't get in far enough.

You either need to modify a socket by cutting the square drive off and then welding a bar on top, or find a recessed ring spanner.

Also I found the mark on the lower cam cover and mark on the auxillary belt pully a more accurate method of finding TDC than with the DTI gauge.

There is a dwell on the dial gauge at TDC that corresponds to quite a few degrees of rotation at the crank.
Spanners will be no issue, and I'll mark each end of the dwell and use the centre point of that as TDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symon View Post
You either need to modify a socket by cutting the square drive off and then welding a bar on top, or find a recessed ring spanner.
grind down the top of a 3/8" socket slightly and use a 3/8" breaker bar .. I borrowed a modified socket to start with and purchased a shortish breaker bar. It was still a close fit between the rail but it was also bl**dy tight!!

I found the balance belt tensioner was the hardest to work with without the correct tool due to the location and space (or lack of!). It is also a faff to line up the three marks with the pulleys. I bought the other tensioning tool later as I managed it with screwdrivers once but the second time, I could not get it to stay put.

Must dig them out and sell them .. along with the cam locks and the longer 7mm bolts .. don't try it with the standard cam bearing bolts as the locks are thicker. All you do is strip the threads from the head .. as someone had already done on mine!!

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For the aux belt idler I just stuck a normal 15mm socket on it and gripped the socket with a pair of stilsons. No mucking around with a grinder or whatever and 10 seconds to remove it.

Yeah the balance belt tensioner is a bit awkward when you're using screwdrivers and the like. One of those times when a third arm would be helpful.
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If you had heard the "crack" my tensioner bolt made when it let go you wouldn't have got it off your way ..

I actually thought I'd snapped the bolt off ... or my new breaker bar!!!

Still trying to work out how the last "specialist" managed to do it up so tight without stripping something vital!
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(Post Link) post #10 of 13 Old 07-09-17 Thread Starter
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Doing it this weekend along with helping with a Fiesta O/S driveshaft and support bearing. Garage full of tools to use
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You mean the aux belt idler bolt Gazza? Actually stilsons are my go to when things get tough. The harder you lean on them the tighter they grip. And they really grip ordinary sockets well, I guess they're tough enough that they don't crush but a bit soft so the stilson jaws can dig in. Works for me anyway.

And Puds comment about the tension, though undoubtedly correct, I wonder just how much difference it really makes. I've not tried it on a TS/JTS, but on other engines with similar systems I've tensioned the belt with load on the cams from valve springs, then removed that load and checked and retensioned the belt, and it's made so little difference to the tension that it would barely be within a margin of error. But of course if you want to be 100% sure, then loosen both pulleys, it's not difficult.
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Member car:

Spider 2005 jts

If it is a TS you dont have to putt the balance shaft belt on it There is no need for. Thous a 1.6 ts has one? a 1.8 ts has not
If it is a JTS then you have to putt the balance shaft belt on again
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(Post Link) post #13 of 13 Old 10-09-17 Thread Starter
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Glad I did it properly yesterday. Timing was way off, made a few mistakes but nothing major. TDC was found with the help of a long screwdriver and some guesswork. Got more torque at the bottom end now which was the only thing I didn't like about the car, although it does idle a bit rough. I did find that I missed reconnecting lambda 2 so ECU possibly decided to go into limp mode, not too sure. Will probably clear the fault today and see how it goes
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