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(Post Link) post #1 of 45 Old 04-02-08 Thread Starter
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Crazed Help!!!! from experts

My 145 had a snap belt caused damaged to engine as told by garage.They put in new belt instaed of checking the actaul damage by opening engine.It now starts but with heavy groaning sounds.Any idea what damage it might have done.Any place where I can get it repaired cheap as I dont want to scrap it off since its been a good drive all through years at the same time I would not like to spead a min of 1600£ as suggested by my current garage.You help is really appreciated.

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Re: Help!!!! from experts

sorry to hear of your troubles. My GTV suffered the same fate last year, unfortunately there is no cheap quick fix, it cost me £1200 to get it repaired with new valves etc. Even if you do the work yourself (just changing a burnt exhaust valve on my 145 as we speak) parts alone and a head rebuild is in the order of £600. Let us know how you get on.

Charlie
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(Post Link) post #3 of 45 Old 05-02-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Thanks for reply,Can i do it on my own?without any expertise.Which tools and knowledge I would need and any pointer where I can get those.
Thanks in advance.
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

WHich engine is it?
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(Post Link) post #5 of 45 Old 06-02-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

its 1.8TS(1745 CC TS)
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

I have just done mine which is the same engine. depends if you (or a mate) have any mechanical experience. if you have experience in doing other fairly large jobs on cars there is no reason why you can't do it yourself and I can email you the manual that details the process. Most of the work is just fiddly, and to be honest a bit of a pain, but get yourself in the right mindset and you can accomplish it.

You will need a fairly decent tool set with spanners, sockets etc. and a must have item is a set of cam locks. usually you need the camlocks before you remove the head, but seeing as your cambelt is snapped you don't need these until reassembly, but they are a must have item. Mine were £30 inc del.
Repairs to the head at a head specialist will run between £250 - £350 depending on how many valves have been dinged. Gaskets, oil, belts etc are going to cost you another £200. You will probably have to factor in some beer for a mate as well.

The way I would look at it is that until you have got the head off and had a look it will have cost you nothing except time. It's knackered anyway so what have you got to lose by taking it apart and having a look?

I found putting it back together easier than taking it apart.

If you do decide to do it post back and I will let you know how I got my inlet manifold off which most people have a right pain with.

Hope this helps.
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Sorry for got to add, you will need some Torx and Ribe bits for the fasteners on this engine. A good Torque wrench too.
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(Post Link) post #8 of 45 Old 07-02-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Thanks for reply.I have alfa service manual.But I have quite a few doubts
1)Do I need to remove complete engine to get head repair or only head removal will be sufficient?
2)How did you got your TDC marked during time of belt fixing
3)did you need to replace variator as well
4)How to remove the values or you had it done from your head specialist
5)Is it possible to rotate Crank pully by hand while doing TDC or you definately need some tool for that as well


Probably I will have further questions for which I would need to bother you again n again.


Thanks
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

1. Head off only, check the pistons and bores for slackness & wear once the head is off by trying to rock the pistons with your fingers. If they wobble then its knackered. if not carry on.
2. Seeing as your belt is snapped, once the head is off, just rotate the crank (19mm socket I think, I just used the wheelbrace out of the boot!) until number 1 piston (piston nearest the pullys and water pump) is a the the top of its stroke. That is TDC for the bottom end. When you fit the camlocks on the head after getting it back that is TDC for the the top.
3. Most people say you should replace the variator at the same time, but mine was quiet beforehand and you can end up changing stuff for changing stuff's sake, so no I did not replace my variator. The worst that can go wrong with that is that it gets noisy over time and starts to make your car sound like a diesel, it does not break anything though.
4. I never did the valves myself, I could have, but that was 1 ball ache too far, take it to a specialist.
5. you can rotate the crank using the wheelbrace, or if you stick the car in 5th gear with the wheels off the floor, you can turn the road wheel.

No probs.

Charlie
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(Post Link) post #10 of 45 Old 10-02-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Hi Charlie,

Thanks for info.Today I started looking my engine.Quite a few observations to confirm

1)TS1.8 does not have a balancer shaft and hence those pulleys?
so it only has AUxiliary and Cam shaft pulleys,so total 2 belts

2)I am bit confused about the intake mainfold removal.Would I need to lift the car to get it removed?How did you do that.your guidance would be helpful

Thanks

Bhardwaj
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(Post Link) post #11 of 45 Old 10-02-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

forgot to ask about TDC

What is Bottom end TDC and top end TDC-how to differenciate
For me a TDC is when pistin in a cylinder is at top of cylinder ,so it can be either during combustion cyle or exhaust(bookish knowledge offcourse) also oce you have your head fitted how would you come to know about TDC

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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Hi Ben,

no balancer on a 1.8 TS so don't worry about that. Intake manifold is a bit of a pig to get off, some say that you lift the front of the car and with long sockets disconnect the bracket and feel for the lower inlet nuts. I didn't if you poke your arm in next to the battery there is just enough room for you to reach all the intake manifold nuts, amazingly they are easier to get on than off once you perfect the routine! You will scratch your arm tho! Leave the bracket on underneath the manifold, The manifold will JUST clear the head both on taking it off and putting it on.
TDC is when number 1 piston is at the top of the cylinder. does not matter about the cycle for the bottom end because the valves control that bit. When you have TDC mark the crank pully and a corrisponding spot on the block with tippex or similar, that way if you do turn the motor slightly (try to avoid it!) you know where TDC is with the head on.
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(Post Link) post #13 of 45 Old 13-02-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Thanks again Charlie,Can you let me know which size torque wrench would I need 1/2" or 3/8",which is best place to but cams and pulleys.
Do you really need cam pully holding wrenches as suggested in manual
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

The only tools you will most definitely absolutely need are the cam locking tools. These hold the cams at the correct angle for cylinder #1 TDC, which answers your earlier question about how to know if you're on inlet or exhaust stroke. With the locks you dont need to think about it.

You can get away without the pulley tools. Inlet cam is easy to loosen off but the exhaust cam pulley is TIGHT. Just be careful when you hold it in place while loosening the nut........ there is a phase sensor and a sensor ring inside the pulley, so you cant stick anything through it to hold it. Do not use the cam locking tools to hold the cam while loosening the pulley nut, make up some tool using the old belt to hold the the pulley
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

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Originally Posted by bhardwajrules View Post
Thanks again Charlie,Can you let me know which size torque wrench would I need 1/2" or 3/8",which is best place to but cams and pulleys.
Do you really need cam pully holding wrenches as suggested in manual
The 1/2" and 3/8" refer to the drive block on the end of the wrench that fits into the hole in the socket. So depending on what size the hole in the socket is depends on what size drive wrench you need, but the real question should be "what range torque wrench do I need?", and I would suggest that you need 2 if you want to torque every bolt correctly. 0-50Nm and 50-150Nm would cover all eventualities.

As for the pulley holders, no you don't really need them, you can fashion one from the old belt (similar to a strap wrench) whilst you tighten up the pulleys. The only tools you really MUST have are the cam locking blocks, and they are engine size specific, you will need the 1.8 and 2.0 TS blocks, they are on ebay all the time.
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Good luck, let us know how you get on.
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(Post Link) post #17 of 45 Old 20-02-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Sure I will keep you posted.I think It will take some more days before I start (busy with some other stuff)
One more qestion for you.Do I need to remove battry connections for carrying out this rebuilding

Regards,
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

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Do I need to remove battry connections for carrying out this rebuilding

Regards,

It is advisable. Just rmember that if your radio needs a code then you will have toenter it afterwards.
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Hi,

Are you talking about Car music system radio or something else?
If I remove the battery I hope It wil not cause any issues with car key code or problems when I start my car after the job.Let me know your thoughts.

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Re: Help!!!! from experts

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My 145 had a snap belt caused damaged to engine as told by garage.They put in new belt instaed of checking the actaul damage by opening engine.It now starts but with heavy groaning sounds.Any idea what damage it might have done.Any place where I can get it repaired cheap as I dont want to scrap it off since its been a good drive all through years at the same time I would not like to spead a min of 1600£ as suggested by my current garage.You help is really appreciated.

Regards
I would definately have the head off that engine and be looking for the bent valves and inspecting the piston crowns for damage as your valves have been bent by impacting the pistons. This is where I would recommend a recon head as repairing yours would prove to be more costly than the price of the recon and would invariably come with a brand new variator, I recon with all the bit's you'd need to do it yourself (Head, Cam Locks, Torx bits, oil + fiter, antifreeze, head gasket set, torque wrench and any other tools you don't have) would cost you less than striping, sending away to get the valve guides pressed in and refitting your current one.
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

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Originally Posted by bhardwajrules View Post
Hi,

Are you talking about Car music system radio or something else?
If I remove the battery I hope It wil not cause any issues with car key code or problems when I start my car after the job.Let me know your thoughts.

Regards
The car key code will be fine, it's just if you've got an aftermarket radio, sometimes they have a code that needs inputing again after power disconnection.
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

if you get really stuck, i will do it for you i know where there is a good head with the valves in for 100 pounds and to do the job in my time 100 pounds total 200 pounds, im in derby area but you would have to get the car to me please.
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Gaskets/oil/antifreeze & belts is the thick end of £200 on there own. Sorry, but I don't see how you can do the job for £200, especially when I have done it myself.
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(Post Link) post #24 of 45 Old 03-05-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

Hello Guys,

Thats for replies and sorry for the reason that I could not get this continued earlier as I had to travel for 3 months on compnay project.
But now i am back and today i have started this rebuild project too.

I have opend the engine cover,removed inginition coils .What I can see here is my inlet fold(plastic part) is opened from back what i mean to say is that back side of it is not sealed its open may be that is casued by the pressure when my cambelt was snapped and it made a blast that time.I have removed my inlet pully but can not remove the part which is sealing my cam(camshaft front cap) I think it sealed tightly so can not remove my cams even i have removed 4 screws of that.Any idea how can i take that out.DO I need to beat to with hammer or something to break the seal .other help i need is reagrding fuel injectors i have removed the screws but I dont have any idea how to take fuel injecctors out afraid of pulling them because i dont know whether that is the correct way.Please provide your inputs
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(Post Link) post #25 of 45 Old 04-05-08 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!!!! from experts

any one outthere can help me with my queries above?I am really stucked .


Regards & TA
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