My car died on the side of the road heading to work the other day.
So I got it lifted and taken home.
It will not start, the starter motor turns but sounds very free to move, as if its not connected to anything. The Engine does not turn at all.
I opend the cam belt cover at the top enough to see into the belts, and notice that the cam belt is very loose, so I am not sure if its broken or slipped?
Can anyone shed any light on this, would it sound like the belt has broke and the car may now be a very expensive repair. I am willing to strip off the cam cover to see about doing the belts but not sure if this is a broken belt or fault tension point?
What would you recommend?
PS: Bought the car at 86k and had belt done at the time, there is now 111k on the clock.
Sorry to say this, but little or no chance of getting away with no internal damage. You will have bent some valves, and possibly some valve guides. Also the impact of the valves and pistons hitting will have compressed the big-end bearing shells so these will need to be replaced as well.
It's likely the belt is intact but the tensioner has let go or seized which has stripped the teeth of the belt. Happened to me on the starter motor ... and even that cost me most of my valves ....
I'd get a recon engine fitted mate, or a full rebuild. Don't just put in new valves and guides where necessary, or in a few thousand miles you'll find you probably have bottom end rattle, meaning its a strip down again just to put in new shells.
Agree with the above - all four pistons will need to come out for inspection. As well as compressing the bearing shells, they can apparently fracture across the top. This is why the garage repairs the bent valves etc and 1000 miles later the big ends let go. Also the valves can punch the top of the piston down and 'nip' the top piston ring.
So it's either a new engine or repair this one. It should be possible to lift the head, drop the sump and rebuild it in situ as long as the crank is unmarked. Given the propensity for these things to knock big ends out at over 100k a new set of shells and con rod bolts is a good plan anyway.
I'm on the case of a 1.8 156 with exactly this problem. Why didn't they keep the old 8v engine??
It is a major job and you're probably looking at around £500 in parts and around 15-20 hours' labour for a home mechanic. Nothing difficult or challenging, just time-consuming.
You could pick up a used engine for around £600, but there's always a risk in doing so, unless you're certain of it's history and/or can see it running.
That's what I was afraid of, but since there was no drama when the car stalled I was thinking maybe its not that bad.
Is there anyway to test the vavles, I assume taking the head off and looking at them, is taking the head off a big job?
My valves didn't need testing the fact that one snapped & the rest were bent made me think they might need replacing! Personally I'd probably go for a re-conditioned engine if mine went again rather than a re-build