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(Post Link) post #1 of 39 Old 09-05-15 Thread Starter
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Blooming paint!

My Spider S2 paint (blue) must be at least 10 years old now and is starting to go white (presumably its blooming) on the bonnet and boot, I cant use conventional cutters or polish as it just makes it worse and leaves marks so all I use is Meguires wash and wax and Showroom Shine - is there anything I can do to get rid of the bloom or is it a repaint job?
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Any chance of some pictures so we can see what's happening ?
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(Post Link) post #3 of 39 Old 09-05-15 Thread Starter
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I can try but its really difficult to get the light right to show it - tomorrow
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If its oxidizing then you could get away with having a two stage machine correction and then protect the paint with a good quality wax or sealant with UV protection.
Post a couple of pics if possible but ideally someone needs to actually look at the car to assess what can be done.
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(Post Link) post #5 of 39 Old 11-05-15 Thread Starter
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Thanks - I think its oxidation rather than blooming, what compound do you recommend to bring it back?
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Meguiars M105 on a cutting pad followed by M205 on a polishing pad (obviously done using either a DA or rotary polisher). The car will also need to be properly decontaminated first (pre-washed, washed, tar & glue, fallout and clay).
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156 JTD 20v

For older paint, have a read of this article about Megs No9 paint The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum

Even if you intend to polish, the Megs No9 can be applied several days beforehand. It is not as super easy to work with as many modern products but I cannot think of any other product which seems to be able to rehydrate paint.
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Thanks both - is the Meguiars ultimate compound any good?
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Thanks both - is the Meguiars ultimate compound any good?
Yes, it's pretty good.
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I started using the Meg Ultimate and have to say am pretty pleased with the results - I've had to go over it quite a few times but the oxidation is coming off - just need to be careful I don't go too far
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I started using the Meg Ultimate and have to say am pretty pleased with the results - I've had to go over it quite a few times but the oxidation is coming off - just need to be careful I don't go too far
If you're doing it by hand then it's unlikely you'll go too far.
Did you try clay barring the car first?
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No but i will if you think its worth it - the compound is taking a lot off paint off so i guess its never been done before
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I have a Ryobi random orbital sander which i use round the house for decorating - can i use this (witch appropriate pads to do the hard work? - if so what pads do you recommend?
Thanks
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I have a Ryobi random orbital sander which i use round the house for decorating - can i use this (witch appropriate pads to do the hard work? - if so what pads do you recommend?
Thanks
I wouldn't recommend it. There's no variable speed and I dare say it has what's called forced rotation. You could cause irreversible damage to your paint.

I would recommend claying before trying to polish. Claying removes surface contamination that washing cannot remove. If you polish without claying you're simply forcing that contamination deeper into the paint and causing more damage. It will also remove oxidation to some degree making cleaning easier.

Saying all this, you've still not posted a pic so my advice is still based on guesswork.
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Thanks again - it really difficult to get a good pic because it only shows in certain light - I'm sure its oxidation as its getting much better with the meg and a fair bit of paint is coming off my sander is vs - I'll clay bar it now and see what happens
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Thanks again - it really difficult to get a good pic because it only shows in certain light - I'm sure its oxidation as its getting much better with the meg and a fair bit of paint is coming off my sander is vs - I'll clay bar it now and see what happens
Clay on an inconspicuous area first. Use LOADS of lubricant and wipe down after each section.
Have you tried something like AutoBrite Cherry Glaze? Amongst other things it is great at cleaning paint. I'd try that after claying.
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So clay then compound then cherry? - blimey its a bit intense this detailing lark but I'm getting a bit addicted
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So clay then compound then cherry? - blimey its a bit intense this detailing lark but I'm getting a bit addicted
Tell me about it... Beginner here too...

So far (as I understand it), a good order for a proper deep clean is:

1. Snowfoam (optional)
2. 2-Bucket wash
3. Dry
4. De-Tar/Organic contaminent remover
5. Iron fallout remover
6. Clay
7. Rinse/wash/dry - remove residue (optional)
8. Polish/compound - work through the variety of compounds you want to use
9. Rinse/wash/dry - remove compound residue (optional)
10. Sealant
11. Glaze
12. Wax

Currently I hand-wash, and top up the wax with QD spray.. Got some AutoGlym HD Wax and Blackfire Polish in the garage though to try out this weekend!

Thinking I ought to pick up some clay and have a go with that next...
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Tell me about it... Beginner here too...

So far (as I understand it), a good order for a proper deep clean is:

1. Snowfoam (optional)
2. 2-Bucket wash
3. Dry
4. De-Tar/Organic contaminent remover
5. Iron fallout remover
6. Clay
7. Rinse/wash/dry - remove residue (optional)
8. Polish/compound - work through the variety of compounds you want to use
9. Rinse/wash/dry - remove compound residue (optional)
10. Sealant
11. Glaze
12. Wax

Currently I hand-wash, and top up the wax with QD spray.. Got some AutoGlym HD Wax and Blackfire Polish in the garage though to try out this weekend!

Thinking I ought to pick up some clay and have a go with that next...
Very close.

Ignoring the wheels.

1) snow foam and rinse.
2) 2 bucket wash, rinse and dry.
3) tar & glue remover, rinse (drying optional)
4) fallout remover, rinse leave the car wet.
5) clay bar and rinse.
6) 2 bucket wash, rinse and dry.
7) polish or glaze (or both but glaze after polishing).
8) this is optional - if you've used an abrasive polish wipe down with panel wipe or IPA to remove the lubricating oils the polish contains. Don't do this if you've used a glaze as it will remove the fillers.
9) sealant (optional)
10) wax (optional)
11) apply gloss enhancer (optional)

Things to bear in mind are if you're waxing/sealing over a glaze don't expect the wax/sealant to last as long as claimed. Glazes break down faster and this has an effect on the longevity of your protection.
If you're applying both a sealant and wax always apply the sealant first. Sealants last longer than waxes do so doing it the other way round means you'll be reapplying your protection again in a short space of time.

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Very close.

Ignoring the wheels.

1) snow foam and rinse.
2) 2 bucket wash, rinse and dry.
3) tar & glue remover, rinse (drying optional)
4) fallout remover, rinse leave the car wet.
5) clay bar and rinse.
6) 2 bucket wash, rinse and dry.
7) polish or glaze (or both but glaze after polishing).
8) this is optional - if you've used an abrasive polish wipe down with panel wipe or IPA to remove the lubricating oils the polish contains. Don't do this if you've used a glaze as it will remove the fillers.
9) sealant (optional)
10) wax (optional)
11) apply gloss enhancer (optional)

Things to bear in mind are if you're waxing/sealing over a glaze don't expect the wax/sealant to last as long as claimed. Glazes break down faster and this has an effect on the longevity of your protection.
If you're applying both a sealant and wax always apply the sealant first. Sealants last longer than waxes do so doing it the other way round means you'll be reapplying your protection again in a short space of time.
Dangit! Got the sealant/glaze the wrong way round!

So if you don't mind me threadjacking temporarily to check my understanding of the different products....

Polish - abrasive that mechanically smoothes the surface finish
Glaze - liquid filler that fills defects to smooth finish (also some colour enhancement?)
Sealant - Synthetic transparent coating, bonds to paint/glaze layer and provides protection
Wax - wax is wax, sits on top, makes it shiny and slippery!
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Dangit! Got the sealant/glaze the wrong way round!

So if you don't mind me threadjacking temporarily to check my understanding of the different products....

Polish - abrasive that mechanically smoothes the surface finish
Glaze - liquid filler that fills defects to smooth finish (also some colour enhancement?)
Sealant - Synthetic transparent coating, bonds to paint/glaze layer and provides protection
Wax - wax is wax, sits on top, makes it shiny and slippery!
Yeah, pretty much. Many glazes and polishes also contain cleaners and waxes too (they're know as 'all in one's ' or AIO's in detailer lingo). This is why I said to try AutoBrite Cherry Glaze after claying. It has some great paint cleaners in it and it's one of only a few products that I will ALWAYS have in my kit bag.
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Yeah, pretty much. Many glazes and polishes also contain cleaners and waxes too (they're know as 'all in one's ' or AIO's in detailer lingo). This is why I said to try AutoBrite Cherry Glaze after claying. It has some great paint cleaners in it and it's one of only a few products that I will ALWAYS have in my kit bag.
Coolio! Would you say glazes are more hand-job friendly?

From what I've read, you can only ever really achieve a certain quality result with hand application/buffing of polishes.. After which a proper DA buffer is the way to go.. I can't see myself spending a few hundred on a buffer/polisher any time soon, but could probably stretch to a nice bottle of glaze for application a few times a year...
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Yeah, a glaze is by far the better option by hand. In fact most hand 'polishes'are glazes now, even Autoglym Super Resin is mostly fillers. Modern clear coats are not hand polish friendly. Once you start to get swirl marks it's time to break out the DA.
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Just ordered some cherry glaze but its just failed the MoT so that might have to wait a bit
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Maybe if it's really shiney the MOT tester won't see all the structural rust and holes
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