What's the best polish? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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What's the best polish?

Just wondering if there's a polish that'll make the 156 sparkle? I've partially polished (roof, bonnet and wings) the car using Turtle Wax liquid. It looks good, but being 14 years old the bodywork could do with a buffing, but I'm not spending hundred quid or so on a electric 'duel action' poilsher.

*EDIT* The colour is Arctic (light green)
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Mmmm... there's too many sub-sections on the forum. Never know which one is the best.
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Most modern polishes will improve the look but the real answer is just how much time you want to dedicate to doing so.
Give it a good wash and then apply your chosen polish one panel at a time. I would suggest roof first and then work your way down. If you have tar spots then sort them first. Once the car has a good coat of polish then all subsequent cleaning sessions will be easier.
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I find the best polish is the Polish carwash.


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To get a good finish you really need to "clay" your car first. If this has never been done then all the polish you apply is somewhat wasted.


http://www.autoglym.com/valeting_bay

Atb,Alex
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Poorboys products all the way
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So you wouldn't recommend T-Cut then?
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In rough terms you have several options in terms of polishing.

Firstly, to use an abrasive product which removes some paint to level it and increase the gloss. This can be done via machine or hand. Machine is generally much easier and will give better results but hand polishing can yield reasonable results

Secondly, use a 'polish' which effectively hides any minor marks by filling any groves in the paint. Absolutely nothing wrong with this approach. There are a huge range of product which can help such as Autoglym's SRP, Poorboys Blackhole etc

If it was my car and I was looking for a hand (abrasive) polish, I would buy a bottle of Meguiars Ultimate Compound and a applicator foam pad. I really rate the 'german' pads as these give you a soft and firmer sides so you can alter the amount abrasion. The Megs UC can be bought from Halfords and most online places. As for the german pads, not sure if they are sold in places like Halfords but might be worth looking

This is an example of a german pad Ultimate German Applicator - Clean Your Car, there is a huge range of this type of applicator and the several different brands I have tried have all worked well.

If you have T-Cut you can use it if you wish although I would suggest the more modern polishes will be easier to use
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Thanks all. I'll check out the above suggestions.

Don't feel T-Cut is the right choice. Too harsh on any paintwork.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plastic penguin View Post
Thanks all. I'll check out the above suggestions.

Don't feel T-Cut is the right choice. Too harsh on any paintwork.
Definitely not T-Cut unless your paintwork is crap.
AG SRP is a good starter choice. But make sure you apply some wax afterwards and keep it topped up with something like AG Aqua Wax.
Read SRs sticky post about cleaning with AG products.
There are loads of alternatives but T-Cut isn't one of them. That said I do use T-Cht in her Ford Kuga sometimes because she makes a mess of her car but never on the Alfa's
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Quick update:

This morning I washed the car down by hand and added proper liquid Turtle Wax polish. What a difference that makes. Certainly looks better in the flesh than in photos. I can only conclude that my camera is rubbish.
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polishing improves the finish of your car by removing small scratches in the clear coat layer of your paint work. These small scratches effect the way light travels through the clear coat therefore and how the base boat color is displayed to our eyes.

Before you attempt to polish your car you need to know.

- Do not attempt to polish your car if you dont know how to clean your car properly beforehand

- Do not attempt to polish your car if you dont know how to clay bar clean a car beforehand

- generally trying to polish your car by hand is close to pointless and polishes that contain emulsifiers to try and fill the scratches are also a bit silly. Yes they can be effective in masking the spiral webs/defect lines but as the scratch is still there the path of light through the clearcoat is still effected in a negative way. Based on this statement your aim or intent when your polish a car should be to remove/correct the scratches on the clear coat. To achieve this you need an appropriate abrasive for the level of correction you require and a machine polisher.

Once flattend you then protect that flat clearcoat finish with a good wax or sealant. Anything else is a waste of time. As is autoglym SRP. But autglym EGP is a good(ish) sealant to use after the clearcoat has been flattened. (although theres better ones)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A l f a View Post
polishing improves the finish of your car by removing small scratches in the clear coat layer of your paint work. These small scratches effect the way light travels through the clear coat therefore and how the base boat color is displayed to our eyes.

Before you attempt to polish your car you need to know.

- Do not attempt to polish your car if you dont know how to clean your car properly beforehand

- Do not attempt to polish your car if you dont know how to clay bar clean a car beforehand

- generally trying to polish your car by hand is close to pointless and polishes that contain emulsifiers to try and fill the scratches are also a bit silly. Yes they can be effective in masking the spiral webs/defect lines but as the scratch is still there the path of light through the clearcoat is still effected in a negative way. Based on this statement your aim or intent when your polish a car should be to remove/correct the scratches on the clear coat. To achieve this you need an appropriate abrasive for the level of correction you require and a machine polisher.

Once flattend you then protect that flat clearcoat finish with a good wax or sealant. Anything else is a waste of time. As is autoglym SRP. But autglym EGP is a good(ish) sealant to use after the clearcoat has been flattened. (although theres better ones)
Clay bars aren't necessary for a 14-year old car, unless you own a high-end showroom or you're a complete geek.

The bodywork on my car has come up beautifully and a dry cloth slides down the bonnet without any drag.
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Which polish is a bit like which tyres or which oil. You'll get 30 different answers and it ends up being no help at all because you don't know if you're machine polishing, buying Autoglym, poorboys, Mr Sheen or what. If it's an old car and you can't be arsed with machine polishing, Autoglym super resin polish with extra gloss protection will make it look great. You'll have to redo it periodically but when was polishing a 156 a chore?

Other products may be better or cheaper or dearer but they'll do the job for you.
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Quote:
Clay bars aren't necessary for a 14-year old car, unless you own a high-end showroom or you're a complete geek.
yer your right, spot on.

Actually I recommend Halfords Super Sparkle Polish for you. Its easily available and well priced. Specifically aimed at "the fonz" catagory of customer like yourself (the showroom finish and geeks wont like it)

No need to clean your car before hand just rub this on your paint work as hard as you can. Its so good you can use toilet roll to rub it in. Takes no longer than 5 minutes to rub in all over your car. Guarantee'd sparkle....
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Originally Posted by A l f a View Post
yer your right, spot on.

Actually I recommend Halfords Super Sparkle Polish for you. Its easily available and well priced. Specifically aimed at "the fonz" catagory of customer like yourself (the showroom finish and geeks wont like it)

No need to clean your car before hand just rub this on your paint work as hard as you can. Its so good you can use toilet roll to rub it in. Takes no longer than 5 minutes to rub in all over your car. Guarantee'd sparkle....
Yeah, there needs to be a modicum of realism -- my car's bodywork is very good for the age, but there is one slight flat spot (top of one wing). I'm okay with that... the car does exactly as it says on the tin. It is older than most in my area, but it doesn't look out of place (from a distance) amongst the newer Beemers, Range Rovers etc etc.

Up close it has a few digs and scratches... it's an honest car.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithyboy View Post
Which polish is a bit like which tyres or which oil. You'll get 30 different answers and it ends up being no help at all because you don't know if you're machine polishing, buying Autoglym, poorboys, Mr Sheen or what. If it's an old car and you can't be arsed with machine polishing, Autoglym super resin polish with extra gloss protection will make it look great. You'll have to redo it periodically but when was polishing a 156 a chore?

Other products may be better or cheaper or dearer but they'll do the job for you.
Absolutely. Bang on!
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I have used a clay bar and polish to clean the car so it feels like glass. Then used a polish with canuba in it.

Turned out a treat.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr156_2.0 View Post
I have used a clay bar and polish to clean the car so it feels like glass. Then used a polish with canuba in it.

Turned out a treat.
Pics or it didn't happen!
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As you're not bothered about machine polishing, decontaminating or claying then I'd agree with what the others have said, you ideally want a glaze type product rather than an abrasive polish.
If you try to use an abrasive by hand you can often end up making the car look far worse because you can't really generate the speed and heat needed by hand. A glaze will cover (fill) most minor imperfections and leave a great shine, just be warned, the finish doesn't last very long because when it rains the fillers get washed away unless you add a protective wax or sealant coat over it but be aware that the longevity of the wax/sealant is affected by the longevity of the glaze, so don't expect the wax/sealant to last as long as it's advertised on the packaging.

As for which product? The suggestions above are all pretty good. Autoglym Super Resin Polish (which is a glaze now rather than a polish) is a popular and readily available choice. It has it's drawbacks though. It can be difficult to remove sometimes and very dusty and you have to work hard to avoid getting it on your trim as its an absolute bugger to get off!

My personal favourite is AutoBrite Direct Cherry Glaze. It's very easy to use, doesn't get dusty at all, can be used on trim (honestly, its as good as many dedicated trim cleaners) it also contains paint cleaners and waxes. A 500ml bottle is around 10 from most detailing stockists (have a look on eBay etc) and there's enough in a bottle to last for months of regular applications. It's one product that I'll always keep in my kit bag.

www.facebook.com/tjr5150 For all your valeting and detailing needs.
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