Have I stuffed up with a DA? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 12 Old 15-07-14 Thread Starter
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Have I stuffed up with a DA?

Posted this on DW but just thought there are plenty of experts on here too....

Got a swirled re-sprayed Alfa 159, so decided, from reading on DW and watching on Youtube, that Iíd remove the swirls, give it a good machine polish and glaze over the top.

So bought a 850w DA Polisher, set of sponge pads (Or, Yell, White, Green, Grey), Farecla G3 scratch remover, and Resin Polish and Autoglym Glaze.

Started off by washing the car and claying it all over till smooth. All good
Next step was G3 on a primed orange pad over 2 ft square area, then hand wiped off. Then resin polish on a white pad and hand wiped off followed by hand applied glaze and hand buffed off.


All done on a dull day and all looked good until the sun shoneÖ.then I could see loads of haze deep below and swirls and holograms. Aaargh!

Iím know I have not cut through the clear coat but the base colour ( red) now seems hazy and when initially doing the swirl removal I never got (as some of the videos say) the swirl remover to go clear ( I did 6 passes over a 2 foot square area at a time). Did not go with a softer pads as I had what I thought were quite heavy swirls initially , was this a mistake? Can I go back and work this haze off: I bought a DA polisher on the basis I could not do to much damage or have I not gone deep enough? Iíve read somewhere that DA Polishers may not cut through enough..? I've latterly been recommended to ditch the G3 for something that works with a DAP.

Any advice would be welcome, I appreciate that a description is not the same as seeing, but there may be something that stands out to someone experienced that I have missed.

Cheers

Keith
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Have I stuffed up with a DA?

How good was the paint condition before you started? You mention a respray was this a good quality one?

You've got to be going some to do damage with a DA it's nigh on impossible so wondering if something else is at fault hence my questions.
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having never polished anything other than by hand, i was always under the impression you had to wipe down afterwards with ipa, to get rid of the polishing oils.
i'm sure lowejackson will put you right.
you may have to use a detox shampoo and start again grrr nightmare.
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(Post Link) post #4 of 12 Old 16-07-14 Thread Starter
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Pretty decent respray for the stone chips....and they didn't do the roof anyway and that is hazed
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It is a bit strange responding over two forums but I guess there are some key elements at play. Firstly a process one whereby the strongest combination was used first rather than the starting with the least aggressive products. Secondly, the G3 (consumer polish) does not seem to be used by many so there is a lack of experienced people to give advice.

Lets assume the G3 is related to their compounds. The older compound from most firms would slightly dull the surface and would traditionally be followed by a polish and a finishing polish. In this case the compound was not refined by a conventional polish to increase the gloss but rather SRP was used which is probably asking it to do more than it was capable.

2 foot square working area is a little big, I would reduce this to 18" or even 12"

If it was my money I would buy something like Meguiars 101/105 or Ultimate Compound (Halfords etc) and a small bottle of 205. Do a test section with 205 on a finishing pad and step up to 205 with a polishing pad if required. If this has not worked then try 101 (or 105 or UC) with a polishing pad or finally try it with a compound pad.

This all sounds a bit complicated but in reality it does not take that long and you now have a good idea what combination works on your paint. As for the hazed paint, my starting point would be 205 on a finishing pad, review to see if you need another set of polishing or to try a 205 with a polishing pad. As long as the panels are cool, 205 will keep working for a a very long time
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(Post Link) post #6 of 12 Old 17-07-14 Thread Starter
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The resin polish was actually the Farecla G3 one but point taken! Have ordered M101 and M205 and will try a small area as suggested. Thanks for your input on both forums!!
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Take your time and I am confident you will get the car looking great again
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I can't imagine you've screwed up because of the DA, they are so user friendly you'd literally have to stand still for a few minutes on one area to do any damage. I did the Mazda bonnet on Wednesday morning it took 3 hours just to do this I panel. I'm a Chemical Guys product user so its hard to understand other companies codes for products and colours of pads etc, but all I can say given your comments is make sure your using the right density of pad for the right products it really makes a difference. I'm sure you'll get your head round it and sort it, don't forget to clay off again to remove the products you used first time round then you've a clean surface to work on again Also if possible post up some pictures so we can see your problems and more after your second attempt
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(Post Link) post #9 of 12 Old 19-07-14 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morris260309 View Post
I can't imagine you've screwed up because of the DA, they are so user friendly you'd literally have to stand still for a few minutes on one area to do any damage. I did the Mazda bonnet on Wednesday morning it took 3 hours just to do this I panel. I'm a Chemical Guys product user so its hard to understand other companies codes for products and colours of pads etc, but all I can say given your comments is make sure your using the right density of pad for the right products it really makes a difference. I'm sure you'll get your head round it and sort it, don't forget to clay off again to remove the products you used first time round then you've a clean surface to work on again Also if possible post up some pictures so we can see your problems and more after your second attempt
Good point re the claying before I restart. Shame I don't live up in Yorks now...!
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Haha your always from Yorkshire, you've just chosen to move somewhere else lol
Keep us posted on how you get on.
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(Post Link) post #11 of 12 Old 22-07-14 Thread Starter
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Well, I've half way there in my quest for a shinier car....! I used the bonnet of the 147 as a guinea pig for my new regime of DA and M101 and 205 and got rid of the swirls, haze and gave me a deep shine. Tried the 205 first but there was still some swirling so went down to the 101 and then back up to the 205. Looking back I think I was wrong on so many counts....
1. Wrong Product, don't think G3 (black bottle) is actually suitable for a DA. On the bottle it talks about hand application...
2. I was working too fast, took me 2.5 hours to do just the bonnet today (101.205, polish and glaze)
3. I was working too lightly
4. I was working too wide

So hopefully with your help of your knowledge I'll get onto the 159 once I've finished the 147!
Incidentally, do experienced detailers do the whole car in one step? What I mean is Swirl remove the whole car, then polish whole car, then glaze whole car or do they just give each panel the full works, panel by panel?

So thanks again for your input, I feel a lot more confident now although the 159 is different paint and a respray....!
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(Post Link) post #12 of 12 Old 08-08-14 Thread Starter
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159 now done, all good apart from some corrosion showing on the tail gate. Ironically having using Farecla G3 products and found them wanting, I have just won and received a box of every item in their G3 range! Now have a spare clay mitt, super resin polish, scratch remover and 2 hand pads.
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