AO Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The land that Time forgot
Yes.. the key is to take it easy.. but if you have a Dual-Action polisher (e.g. Meguiars G220) and a mild polish (Porboys SSR 2.0) and a regular polishing pad, then it's almost impossible to damage the paint.
Start using the mildest polish that does the job.. Poorboys do an SSR 1.0 and a 2.5 (T-Cut would be a "3.0)") so it's easy to understand what you're attacking the paint with.
If you have deep swirls.. you may needs to start with a 2.0 and then finish with a 1.0 though a lot of polishes get "finer" as you work them in anyway.
Yes.. always clay the car first. It gets most of the contamination and any residual dispersant/silicone based polish (car-wash All in 1s) off the paint so you don't clog the polishing pad.
Do one panel at a time so your polish doesn't dry on...
Rinse off the residue.. then glaze.
Glaze can be applied by machine too.. use a glaze pad (it's non abrasive) .. otherwise a micro-fibre cloth or applicator. You don't need to rub.. it's not an abrasive.. just spread it on and caress the paint with it.
Buff it off... but then apply a wax.
Not a wax polish (e.g Autoglym) otherwise you'll remove the glaze. It has to be a proper wax (look at Poorboy's Natty Blue wax) to seal the surface.
Apply 4 coats for more shininess.. after that it doesn't make any difference.
It'll take 4 hours to wash-clay-polish-glaze-wax your car the first time... but you'll be able to wash it in 20 minutes flat because the surface will be so smooth. And it won't get quite so grimy.. since it's super-smooth, you wash it more regularly (as that doesn't take as long) .. so you won't have to repeat the "big" detail again until next year.
No bullets for Chaingun..