Should I get a pro to cut and polish - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 20 Old 02-03-10 Thread Starter
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Should I get a pro to cut and polish

Recently, some kind person back into my car, this has resulted in my need a new front bumper. While at the crash repairer last Friday I asked if they could do some touch up work on my paint.

The person who I was talking to noted that my paintwork in that light and a bluish tinge to it. I have noticed this as well from time to time when the car is wet or in certain light. They have suggest that I get a full cut and polish. From what I understand this is beginning of my paint fading.

They use megs products, not sure which exactly but I figure I could get these products myself. They want 300 hundred AUD to do it.

I don't have a proper polishing tool so I would be doing it by hand, I am also a bit nervous about using a harsh polish.

Assuming I did get it done could I expect the results to be long lasting? I was my car at worst every fortnight and use AG car shampoo and aqua wax. I did give a coat of super resin and paint and the ultimate gloss stuff back in May but haven't done any polish or sorts since then.

Do people think its worth me getting it done while they have my car?

Regards

Sam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samfromaus View Post

They have suggest that I get a full cut and polish.

Sam


That expression alone would put me off. Nobody, least of all experienced detailers, would use that term anymore. I cannot coment on the price is Aussie dollers but a full correction by a really top class detailer will probably set you back.

Steer away from the "valet" shops and look for a good detailer who will give you professional advice. If your paintwork is genuinely fading in the true sense of the word then there is not much you can do about it as it is covered by a clear coat. This is what is showing the swirls and minor scratches. As long as there is a reasonable thickness to the clearcoat (this can be checked with a gauge), it can be worked on to return it to a beautiful finish and deep gloss but nothing can reverse fading.

Your car need the following:

1. A good wash
2. Inspection under halogens and checking paint thickness.
3. Claying
4. Another wash
5. Machine polishing
6. Application of a wax or sealant

Good luck.
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What is the paint code for your car?
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(Post Link) post #4 of 20 Old 02-03-10 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback I guys. The car is alfa rosso
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Ah.. It could be fading. 130 is famous for it.

But as above.. a polish will remove swirls and scratches and make the shine very deep and clear.. which your wax will protect. Fading is in the colour coat, so if the beast is turning pink, there's not much to be done. Wax protects it better than no wax.. so keep the waxing bit up.

But if I were you I would get a polishing kit (dual action polisher) and do the polishing part yourself. A gentle polish like Poorboys SSR2 (or even finer SSR1) with a dual-action polisher is virtually impossible to wear out the paint.

A rotary polisher.. is best left to the pro's. Your paintshop will probably use one of these.. but even a pro' can leave holograms (swirls) so stay away from it.. they'll give the job to the Saturday lad. You want their top fella to do it.

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That expression alone would put me off.
What he said ^^^^

It sounds to me like you will be getting the (outdated) Megs diamond cut and a wool pad treatment. Alfa paint is typically soft and a medium polish/ finishing polish on a foam pad should take care of most "light scratches" (RDS).
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(Post Link) post #7 of 20 Old 04-03-10 Thread Starter
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Thanks guys

I had another chat to them yesterday about what exactly they do.

The job would basically be:

Machine polish with 3M cutting polish
Follow with 3M black polish
then finish with megs products.

The person I spoke to basically said its probably not worth doing it now and to wait until October. I have no knowledge of 3M car care products, however, my initial though is that I didn't ever associate 3M with paint care, maybe I was wrong?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by springbok View Post


That expression alone would put me off. Nobody, least of all experienced detailers, would use that term anymore. I cannot coment on the price is Aussie dollers but a full correction by a really top class detailer will probably set you back.

Steer away from the "valet" shops and look for a good detailer who will give you professional advice. If your paintwork is genuinely fading in the true sense of the word then there is not much you can do about it as it is covered by a clear coat. This is what is showing the swirls and minor scratches. As long as there is a reasonable thickness to the clearcoat (this can be checked with a gauge), it can be worked on to return it to a beautiful finish and deep gloss but nothing can reverse fading.

Your car need the following:

1. A good wash
2. Inspection under halogens and checking paint thickness.
3. Claying
4. Another wash
5. Machine polishing
6. Application of a wax or sealant

Good luck.
Good advice. I've heard quite a few reports of bodyshops leaving the paintwork in a bit of a mess. Bodyshops and detailers are completely different. If you want a professional job i'd go to a dedicated detailer.

If you can't find one give it a go yourself. You'll probrably do a better job than a bodyshop anyway.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samfromaus View Post
Thanks guys

I had another chat to them yesterday about what exactly they do.

The job would basically be:

Machine polish with 3M cutting polish
Follow with 3M black polish
then finish with megs products.

The person I spoke to basically said its probably not worth doing it now and to wait until October. I have no knowledge of 3M car care products, however, my initial though is that I didn't ever associate 3M with paint care, maybe I was wrong?
3M make some very good polish/compounds. Usually used by pros. LIke i said above, seriously consider a detailer rather than a bodyshop for this.
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Yeah, 3M are very good but they don't sell retail, but to the trade.

They actually now own Meguiars.
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Machine polish with 3M cutting polish
Follow with 3M black polish
then finish with megs products.
That gives me a fair bit of confidence in him.
3M polishes all come in black bottles with green (Fast cut plus- compound), yellow (extra fine -heavy polish) and blue caps (ultrafina- great finishing polish) caps (I'm ignoring glazes and waxes for simplicity). Then he wants to finish with Megs? I hope he doesn't plan on waxing a new paintjob, as long as he doesn't wax it you should be fine
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I don't think Sam is getting any new paint.. just a cut and polish of the existing.. in which case he definitely should have a wax put on at the end of it.. otherwise all that new shiny surface will quickly get faded again.


Ralf S.
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(Post Link) post #13 of 20 Old 06-04-10 Thread Starter
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Hi all,

thanks for all the great feedback. I did not end up getting them do anything. Instead I gave it a go over with AG SRP and EGP and I will wait until after winter and then look around and get a full detail.

I did in fact get some new paint as the bumper got replaced other then that a few brush touch ups. Could someone explain to me what is bad about putting wax on a new paint job?
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Hi all,

Could someone explain to me what is bad about putting wax on a new paint job?
I'm no expert but I think it will effect how the paint cures. It takes quite a while for the paint to fully cure and as you would effectively be sealing the paint with the wax or sealant it won't be getting the air to it which it needs to cure properly.

That was a bit of an educated guess though, someone should be able to tell you for definate on here.
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someone should be able to tell you for definate on here.
a +1 should sum it up nicely

If the paint is sealed before it cures (60-90 days) it may cause defects. Solvent pop is the correct term iirc and the problem is the solvents build up until they pop (can't think of a better explanation) and ruin the nice new paint, repainting is the only solution.
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(Post Link) post #16 of 20 Old 07-04-10 Thread Starter
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thanks for that guys.

all thought not really want I wanted to hear as I have put super resin polish and extra gloss protection on it about 3 weeks after it happened

I have also used aqua wax on it.

Guess I should have asked sooner, hopefully nothing bad will come of it.

Last edited by samfromaus; 07-04-10 at 07:52.
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EGP is a funny one, it's not a wax or a paste sealent and it might not cause any issues because it is solvent based and hopefully the solvents can evaporate through. Go easy on the aquawax though.
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thanks for that guys.

all thought not really want I wanted to hear as I have put super resin polish and extra gloss protection on it about 3 weeks after it happened

I have also used aqua wax on it.

Guess I should have asked sooner, hopefully nothing bad will come of it.
It might be worth stripping the EGP off then to be on the safe side. A good claying should do it.
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(Post Link) post #19 of 20 Old 08-04-10 Thread Starter
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Thanks again.

Is it safe to clay new paint? Also is solvant pop likely to appear sooner or over a longer time?

One last question regarding auqa wax. Normally I use it after every wash. Typically I wash the car every fortnight. Is it ok to use so often and so soon after polishing.

Many thanks

Sam
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It should not be necessary to clay new paint. Why would there be bonded contaminants on it already? Keep it clean and let it cure.
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