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Touch up brush...how to use...

Daft question maybe, but I have just had 2 brushes delivered for my 159. A colour and the laquer. But no instructions.

What do I do??? I don't want to mess up the paint with cacking it up, thats why I am asking.

Cheers!
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First of all make sure the area is completly clean, an alcohol wipedown is probably the easiest way to do this if you're doing it outdoors/ a cold gargage (panel wipe takes longer to evaporate).
Dab the least amount of paint you can get away with to cover the primer etc then build the rest of the scratch/ stonechip up with lacquer. You might want to sand the local area with 2000+ wet and dry (used wet) and remove the sanding marks with a compound and polish for the best possible repair.
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Glad I asked! I have a few across the front edge of the bonnet and a big graze under the off side head light, so need to take some time.
Didn't realise about cleaning with alchohol first, assume this gives the paint/laquer something to adhere to.
Thanks for the hints.
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Originally Posted by wynne71 View Post
Didn't realise about cleaning with alchohol first, assume this gives the paint/laquer something to adhere to.
Yeah, the idea of doing this is to remove and old wax/ traffic film that washing may have missed (or failed to remove). After you rub it with alcohol don't touch it with anything because it may introduce contamination (oils from your skin etc). It's probably a bit ott to be honest with you but it's good practice.
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Get yourself a really fine artists brush. They make a much better job. I think something like a no.1 size.
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My first advice is ... don't use the brush

Fold a small piece of paper into a tiny triangle and use this to repeatedly apply
a small amount of paint.... waiting at least 2 hours between applications.

When the paint is perfectly dry (2 days in warm weather) flat it down with
800 grit wet 'n dry.

Then use the same technique for the lacquer.... flat again with wet 'n dry.

Then polish with a propriety paint finisher.
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Since we all started "dissing" the brush, I will add that I use a toothpick
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Yep. Any of these but the brush, you can also twirl/twist up a bit of kitchen towel to a point and use that.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJ View Post
My first advice is ... don't use the brush

Fold a small piece of paper into a tiny triangle and use this to repeatedly apply
a small amount of paint.... waiting at least 2 hours between applications.

When the paint is perfectly dry (2 days in warm weather) flat it down with
800 grit wet 'n dry.

Then use the same technique for the lacquer.... flat again with wet 'n dry.

Then polish with a propriety paint finisher.
that's what I was once told by a professional .He reckoned newspaper had the right level of absorbtion for paint but mixed paint rather than the thick stuff you get in touchup stick.It really a question of building up the paint gradually, apparently
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that's what I was once told by a professional .He reckoned newspaper had the right level of absorbtion for paint but mixed paint rather than the thick stuff you get in touchup stick.It really a question of building up the paint gradually, apparently
I've used a toothpick before but prefer a fine artists brush. Just don't use the brush supplied with the pots, they are way too big.
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Hole punch, cut varying sized discs from 1200 1500 grit wet and dry. Attach these to erasers removed from the end of a pencil , stick the discs to the erasers with super glue, for precise/accurate keying of the chip.

Bar of soap... dip the prepared abrasive disc in a drop of water, then rub the disc on the bar of soap. Stops clogging?

Nicely keyed chip filled with a spot of primer, couple of applications, allow to dry thoroughly then flat this with the disc, before applying the colour coat level with the surrounding paintwork. When dry apply clear lacquer and when this has had a few days to harden then polish with a burnishing compound.

Never achieved a completely invisible repair with this method on horizontal panels, but it looks better than chips?:

PS I use a sharpened cocktail stick or toothpick, lightly chewed at the sharp end or sometimes an extra fine camel haired,(sable if you have one: ) brush. It varies as to which I feel is the better choice of applicator.: Have Fun.
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Good grief! I thought I paid attention to detail, you lot are on a whole other level....

Looks like I will need to get a bit of wet and dry, as this seems to be a popular rec. Then will have another go at the chips. I admit to using the actual brush late yesterday. Should have checked the thread before then!

Thanks, huge help, as always.
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Good luck again. You'll certainly while away an hour or two eradicating chips and so on.:

Last edited by zulu ferret; 07-03-10 at 17:15.
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Check this out Stone Chip Repair Guide - Detailing World May find a few other tips in there. Have fun
In the past, I have got the paint factors to make up an aerosol for me. I find the consistency of this easier to work with as the touch up pots are a bit too thick to work with accurately. You need to be really patient doing this to get the best possible finish.

Top tip with the wet & dry on the pencil ZF. The only thing I would add here is to make sure the W&D is firmly attached as if it comes loose & folds under itself you could end up with a bigger mess, but if stuck firmly you should be OK.

Last edited by rickyw; 07-03-10 at 14:46.
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Quote:
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Check this out Stone Chip Repair Guide - Detailing World May find a few other tips in there. Have fun
In the past, I have got the paint factors to make up an aerosol for me. I find the consistency of this easier to work with as the touch up pots are a bit too thick to work with accurately. You need to be really patient doing this to get the best possible finish.

Top tip with the wet & dry on the pencil ZF. The only thing I would add here is to make sure the W&D is firmly attached as if it comes loose & folds under itself you could end up with a bigger mess, but if stuck firmly you should be OK.
This a very good guide, one I used when attempting some stone chips on my car last year. You have got to brave though and go easy on the wet and dry. Keep it well lubed and check your work every 5 or 6 passes.

P.S. make sure the repaired area stands well proud of the surrounding area as this will help make sure you don't burn through the clearcoat in the surrounding areas.
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Managed a near perfect match on bonnet chips on the old Pug 205 using this fiddling and diddling method. This was a solid colour though, which is much easier than metallic finishes.: PS no problems with the discs coming loose ever, using a fairly light touch, and a good quality super glue.:
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Re-reading what I wrote above.. I realise that Zed is right (again )

I suggested 800 grit wet 'n dry.... 1200 is what I would then use to get a
'polishable' finish..

(and yes I usually punch out discs and superglue them to pencil erasers.. I guess
I nicked that idea from Zed)

Plenty of water...
Plenty of patience...

and you'll get a good result ..... all ready for the next stone from the Toyota in front

[Anyone want any tips on how to sharpen a cylinder mower .... way off topic ]
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