Home alloy refurb - Alfa Romeo Forum
You are currently unregistered, register for more features.    
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Smallville
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Home alloy refurb

So how hard would it be to refurb your own alloys as mine are looking pretty sorry and needs a good going over.

I would of thought it would be like this,

Step 1 - Poly filler of some sort
Step 2 - Sand it all down so its nice and smooth
Step 3 - Spray the wheel the colour you want

What im not sure on is as im going to be doing the whole wheel, should I spray the wheel with some sort of primer or base coat?
 
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Status: Want your car undersealing? PM ME!
AO Silver Member
 
langers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 1,929

Member car:

145 Cloverleaf

Iv done a couple:

Sand it all down to start with, then pay particular attention to the areas of damage. Use something like 600 - 800 wet and dry.

Then clean it all down, make sure its dry. Fill it using standard filler. Wait for it to dry.

Sand the wheel down with 1200gritt to ensure a nice smooth surface.

Clean it all down and ensure its dry.

Spray with the colour you want, do a really thin layer, leave it for 20 mins, then do another layer. Put as many layers as you want on. I would advise on around 4 - 5 good thin layers.

I didnt use any primer on my wheels.
langers is offline  
Status: No more warranty!
AO Silver Member
 
twissler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United Kingdom
County: Cheshire
Posts: 1,051
If your sanding the wheel down to the metal then you will need some etching primer. I would prime anyway, it just makes a better surface for the paint to adhere to.
twissler is offline  
Status: No more warranty!
AO Silver Member
 
twissler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United Kingdom
County: Cheshire
Posts: 1,051
Also, show us some step by step pics. Always interesting to see with something like this.
twissler is offline  
Smallville
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Do you guys recommend leaving the tires on and taping paper around the tire or take them off?
 
Status: No more warranty!
AO Silver Member
 
twissler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United Kingdom
County: Cheshire
Posts: 1,051
If leaving the tires on deflate them and then mask up. If I was doing it I'd pay someone to take the tires off. The better the prep the better outcome and the longer it will last. Make sure you spend plenty of time sanding them down with 600 grit paper and then smooth with say 800-900 grit.

Patience is definately a virtue with this kind of thing.
twissler is offline  
keithyboy
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Tyres are an absolute ******* to mask because the tape never wants to stick. A better alternative is to paint eh tyre with liquid soap. Bosh a good thick layer on (cheapo washing up liquid from Netto is best) being careful not to get any on the wheel, paint it, let the paint dry and hose off. with apologies for the Fraudy Scrote wheel, here's one I prepared earlier.







 
Status: Needs a thermostat
AO Silver Member
 
10,500RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ireland
County: -
Posts: 3,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by keithyboy View Post
Tyres are an absolute ******* to mask because the tape never wants to stick. A better alternative is to paint eh tyre with liquid soap. Bosh a good thick layer on (cheapo washing up liquid from Netto is best) being careful not to get any on the wheel, paint it, let the paint dry and hose off. with apologies for the Fraudy Scrote wheel, here's one I prepared earlier.







Handy wee tip for doing steelies, I never would have thought of that .
I'm going to be respraying my wheels (17 inch multispokes) in the next few weeks, if anyone wants me to take a few pics and do a wee write up just say so.

**edit** fillers is a big no-no on wheels (especially the outer rim) apprently. I heard it cracks and can fall off during tire changes. I have been told it's brazing (sp?) and sanding only.
10,500RPM is offline  
Smallville
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10,500RPM View Post
Handy wee tip for doing steelies, I never would have thought of that .
I'm going to be respraying my wheels (17 inch multispokes) in the next few weeks, if anyone wants me to take a few pics and do a wee write up just say so.

**edit** fillers is a big no-no on wheels (especially the outer rim) apprently. I heard it cracks and can fall off during tire changes. I have been told it's brazing (sp?) and sanding only.
Oh yes please with the small guide fella

Im going to be doing mine but slowly. So what shall I use to fill in the chips?
 
Status: Needs a thermostat
AO Silver Member
 
10,500RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ireland
County: -
Posts: 3,263
I have never painted wheels before tbh but I used to spray kitchen doors with cellolose based paint and I do a bit of metal polishing including lip polishing. My method won't be perfect and I have a small bit of learing to do but I think that a combination of my skills should pull me through.
Basiacally I'm planning
1) Sand the outer lip with 80 grit working up to 800 grit to remove kerbing marks.
2) Sand the rest of the rim down to "key" the paint, grit unknown atm
3) Prime the whole wheel front and back
4) Sand with 1200 grit
5) Paint with silver paint (I'll get the code in a wee minute)
6) Optional sand with 2000 grit to knock back the orange peel for a better finish
7) Lacquer
8) Wetsand (with 2000 grit to remove the flys which will find the wet paint ) and polish, no wax/ sealent for 3 months.

Numbers 3, 5 and 7 should be preceded with a a rub down with something to remove any oils/ dust which may prevent the paint from bonding properly. I will be using Antisil 770/ 3M Aqua tack cloth becuse I already have it. Most people will only use a dry cloth .

Last edited by 10,500RPM; 22-01-10 at 22:03.
10,500RPM is offline  
Status: Needs a thermostat
AO Silver Member
 
10,500RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ireland
County: -
Posts: 3,263
The primer I will be using is UPOL 20:20 Grey HS Primer Filler (3:1)
The paint is 2k and the code is 513VC, it should leave a hyper silver finish.
10,500RPM is offline  
Status: [aluminium undertrayfitted
AO Silver Member
 
springbok's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: South Africa
County: Western Cape
Posts: 2,133

Member car:

Alfa 156 GTA

Looking forward to the "step by step" with pics.
Good luck.
springbok is offline  
keithyboy
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
You can buy degreasing wipes in Halfords to get rid of contamination before you paint. Or you can buy a gallon of panel wipe from your local paint factor for about a tenner and it was last for ages.

As for filler, if it's on the rim where the weights go, it might cause problems but otherwise it'll be OK provided it's only a very thin skim. Anything more than that and I would question the structural integrity of the wheel.
 
Status: No more warranty!
AO Silver Member
 
twissler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United Kingdom
County: Cheshire
Posts: 1,051
Can't you use liquid metal? I'm pretty sure it's got aluminium in it for this sort of job.
twissler is offline  
Status: Needs a thermostat
AO Silver Member
 
10,500RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ireland
County: -
Posts: 3,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by springbok View Post
Looking forward to the "step by step" with pics.
Good luck.


Quote:
Originally Posted by keithyboy View Post
As for filler, if it's on the rim where the weights go, it might cause problems but otherwise it'll be OK provided it's only a very thin skim. Anything more than that and I would question the structural integrity of the wheel.
I have stuff called "stoppers" which apparently goes over fillers (I'm painting my whole car) for a better finish. I wonder if this could be used on wheels on it's own?

Quote:
Originally Posted by twissler View Post
Can't you use liquid metal? I'm pretty sure it's got aluminium in it for this sort of job.
You probably can, I assume that it's too hard to sand back for the average user (from my experience of using it to fix a carb bowl) and brazing is cheaper for professionals. I can't see why it won't work tbh, it can even be tapped and welded so it's definity stong stuff.
10,500RPM is offline  
Status: We got there
AO Silver Member
 
Mr_Caine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: United Kingdom
County: Surrey
Posts: 3,189

Member car:

GTV, RCZ, KTM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 10,500RPM View Post
t and back
4) Sand with 1200 grit
5) Paint with silver paint (I'll get the code in a wee minute)
6) Optional sand with 2000 grit to knock back the orange peel for a better finish
7) Lacquer
Can you sand metallic, I thought lacquer had to go over metallic without sanding?
Mr_Caine is offline  
Status: No more warranty!
AO Silver Member
 
twissler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United Kingdom
County: Cheshire
Posts: 1,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Caine View Post
Can you sand metallic, I thought lacquer had to go over metallic without sanding?
I think this is one of those grey areas. I'm not sure and when I repaired my wheel I didn't sand the metallic because I thought it would alter the finish and once under the clearcoat your screwed.
twissler is offline  
Status: Needs a thermostat
AO Silver Member
 
10,500RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ireland
County: -
Posts: 3,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Caine View Post
Can you sand metallic, I thought lacquer had to go over metallic without sanding?
It does. I will be applying a very thin coat of colour and a very thin mix of lacquer between wet sanding and lacquer stages. It's called a flow coat or something like that. Basiaclly it's 25% paint/ hardener and 75% thinners (same with lacquer) iirc. It helps to create a smoother finish. We had the same issues painting with pearl paints at work.
10,500RPM is offline  
Status: No more warranty!
AO Silver Member
 
twissler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United Kingdom
County: Cheshire
Posts: 1,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10,500RPM View Post
It does. I will be applying a very thin coat of colour and a very thin mix of lacquer between wet sanding and lacquer stages. It's called a flow coat or something like that. Basiaclly it's 25% paint/ hardener and 75% thinners (same with lacquer) iirc. It helps to create a smoother finish. We had the same issues painting with pearl paints at work.
So are you going to wet sand the colour then apply this flow coat before putting the laquer coats on?
twissler is offline  
Status: Needs a thermostat
AO Silver Member
 
10,500RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ireland
County: -
Posts: 3,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by twissler View Post
So are you going to wet sand the colour then apply this flow coat before putting the laquer coats on?
Yep, I'm going to try the wetsanding & flow coat method on one wheel before I mess up all four
It should work though, pearl paints are far more fussy and they respond to this very well indeed
10,500RPM is offline  
Smallville
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Well I got the alloys off today and fitted my spare lot BUT one of the alloys is cracked, around 3" long so I now need a new one
 
keithyboy
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
[QUOTE=10,500RPM;3171392]

I have stuff called "stoppers" which apparently goes over fillers (I'm painting my whole car) for a better finish. I wonder if this could be used on wheels on it's own?
[/QUOTE

I've never been a lover of stopper as it always seems to take ages to harden but I've only ever used cheapo stuff rather than proper trade gear. As you're only filling surface imperfections, it should do the trick.

Have you started a thread on painting the entire car?
 
Status: No more warranty!
AO Silver Member
 
twissler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United Kingdom
County: Cheshire
Posts: 1,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10,500RPM View Post
Yep, I'm going to try the wetsanding & flow coat method on one wheel before I mess up all four
It should work though, pearl paints are far more fussy and they respond to this very well indeed
Don't forget progress pics. Are you gonna sand the wheels down yourself or get them shot blasted or stripped?
twissler is offline  
Status: Needs a thermostat
AO Silver Member
 
10,500RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ireland
County: -
Posts: 3,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by keithyboy View Post

Have you started a thread on painting the entire car?
I have a few "before" and maybe a few of the sanding stage (it's has been stitting like since 5/12/09), I'll take a few during painting etc but there won't be too many becuse the airborne paint won't do my lens any favours. I wasn't planning to do a writeup but we'll see how it goes. The car has to be half assembled to go to the mechanics to get a look at my crankshaft pulley first to see which one I need and that has really threw a spanner in the works becuase I don't get time with work and the road to the yard the car is in is too rough for my bike
10,500RPM is offline  
Status: Needs a thermostat
AO Silver Member
 
10,500RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ireland
County: -
Posts: 3,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by twissler View Post
Don't forget progress pics. Are you gonna sand the wheels down yourself or get them shot blasted or stripped?
I will sand them myself. They will only get a light rub in the areas with no kerb marks.
10,500RPM is offline  
Reply

Go Back   Alfa Romeo Forum > Supported Alfa Romeo Models > Technical & Vehicle Assistance > Car Detailing

Tags
alloy , home , refurb

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome