Ive damaged my mito paintwork!!!! Help!!! - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 16 Old 20-07-09 Thread Starter
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Ive damaged my mito paintwork!!!! Help!!!

Hi guys

Ive been so stupid and put insect remover on my ETNA BLACK mito and left it on there for 20 mins!!!!!! I went into the house to answer a phone call and totally forgot about it!!!!!!!

It has left 4 patches of dull paint and scratches where the dead bugs have possibly scratched the paint work from the product taking a layer off.

I immediately washed off the residue with car shampoo but when it dried there was still the dullened paint!!!!

Help!!!! Ive never had a car before my mito so i dont really know what to do. I dont know any people who are into cars. What can i do to get the shine back? i doesnt feel scratched and the paint work still feels smooth. What has it stripped off?

Does anybody know what product to buy to get it out? Ive heard of T-cut? Does this work or is it better to take it into a garage and get it buffed out?

Will the paintwork ever look the same again. Ive got it in ETNA BLACK!!!!!

Would it be better to take it back to my ALfa Dealer where i bought it? I know they would be dearer but would they do anything different to fix it???

Lastly does anybody know of any good reliable body shop company's? I live in South east london but would travel anywhere around London.

Thankyou in advance for your advice and help
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Sorry to hear about this but don't panic:

1. Do not under any circumstances start attacking it with T-cut!! (Especially T-Cut!!!)
2. What brand of insect remover? Is it one made for cars? (Meguiars Tar and Bug Remover for example will not damage your paintwork but it will take off any wax that was present)
3. If the paint looks and feels perfectly smooth then it does not sound as if it is etched into the surface.
4. Your paintwork has a clearcoat layer on top of the colour. This protects the actual paint and helps to give it gloss. When you polish and wax your car you are actually applying product to the clearcoat not the paint.
5. I would not normally recommend you go near a dealer as they are clueless when it comes to detailing and are likely you st*ff it up even more. However since it is a new car there is probably some sort of waranty on the paintwork so you might have to go in to the dealer.
6. What you need now is some good honest advice from a professional detailer in your area. Hopefully someone will step forward.

Good luck
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Are you sure it's proper dull paint and not something still on the paint?

Get some strong soap solution (washing up liquid) on a damp cloth and wipe the surface carefully... just to make sure there's no residue or anything on there.

Next try a gentle solvent on a cloth to see if that removes anything (you may have some furniture polish lying around the house).

If these don't shift it, then it's probably damage in the top-coat... but stay calm. It sounds very minor.

You need to get some very mild polish and a damp cloth. Dab some of the polish on the cloth and just rub it gently on the affected paint. Apply more pressure if you need to but don't be too hard and before you start make sure the cloth and the paint are spotless, or you may put marks in the paint.

Polish... T-Cut is very abrasive, so avoid it. If you have some Colour Magic or any of those coloured polishes Halfords sell, they would be a good place to start. They're not as abrasive but do have some cutting ability. Also, you can try Autoglym Super Resin Polish.. but that's very fine and you may need several goes with it - most people use it like a "wax" rather than a polish.

I don't think you need to bother a pro' just yet. Tell us what products are in your garage and we'll tell you which ones to try.


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Take some photos so we can see just how bad it is (which I'm sure it's not) - you may just need to polish the area up (as the others have suggested) with a gentle polish such as Autoglym Super Resin Polish, but you may need to cut the area back a little too BUT DON"T USE T-CUT!!! Autoglym Paint Renovator is more subtle and gives excellent results.
 
(Post Link) post #5 of 16 Old 21-07-09 Thread Starter
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thankyou for your advice

Ive just tried a little patch with mr sheen and the shine has come back and it seems to have got rid of the dullness !!!! Pheeeeew!!!!

Ive noticed that it has left minute scratch circles and was wondering what product to use to buff those out with and what sort of cloth? I have a halfords near me.

Also once ive polished the 4 patches out should i wash it all with car shampoo and then apply a buffing product (which hopefully someone will recommend)

Sorry if i sound stupid and panicy but i dont really have a clue about cars!!!!!

Thanks
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(Post Link) post #6 of 16 Old 21-07-09 Thread Starter
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i think what i was trying to say there was do i need to wash the polish off?? Will it damage the car if i dont wash off the Mr Sheen polish?

Cheers
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(Post Link) post #7 of 16 Old 21-07-09 Thread Starter
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An update!!!!

Ive got rid of all of the dullness which is excellent. The flecks of red are there still so i think it just dulled the top coat!!!!

All that is left are very faint patches were the polish has been (when you look at it from certain angles) , so im presuming that i will just need to get something to buff it out?

If i was to do this would i need to do this to the whole bonnet and the front panel?

Apologies for all the questions
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No.. Mr Sheen is harmless. It has a bit of silicone wax in it so it'll help the water run off the paint and give a nice shine! At least for a few days, after when it will have evaporated away.

Some people polish their whole car with it.. but I think that's a bit eccentric. Use proper car-valeting products.

The minute scratches (swirling) are probably minor enough to be reduced or even eliminated using Autoglym Super Resin Polish.

When you're in the Big H. buying the SRP, buy a couple of the small foam applicator pads (e.g. Meguiars). Apply the SRP to the marks using a damp pad and polish away. Light to moderate pressure will do it. You don't have to get rid of them completely.. they'll vanish over time, if you keep on it. SRP also contains fillers that will mask them for a while.

Next time you wash the car (search for car washing advice.. you'll wonder how it could be so complicated! ), use the SRP and the pad to "polish" the whole car. You won't need to press too hard, as your paint is new but if you have any bonded on contaminants (paint feels like grit is stuck to it) look at clay (search for "clay"... yes.. you are turning into an anorak! )

When you're done buffing that SRP off...(use an old terry towel or a Microfibre cloth) .. apply a coat of wax. This protects the surface better, hides some minor marks and also makes the beast easier to wash next time.

Wax is a pub-discussion topic. If you want to start "basic" you can do worse than the Simoniz or Turtle Wax paste wax in a tin (the second foam pad comes in handy for that) from the Big H. while you read up on all the different varieties of waxes and other potions available.

Read Polished Bliss - Car Care Products - Car Care Advice - Detailing Services - Scotland - UK to see what's available and how to use it... but at the very least you should own:

1 x bucket (2 buckets is better.. see "two-bucket method")
1 x Car shampoo
1 x Wash mitt (sheepskin or Microfibre) Sponge if you really want to make the fellas on here cringe...
1 x Drying towel
Then...
2 x applicator pads
Super Resin polish
Wax
Microfibre (Terry will do) towel (for buffing)

You can optionally own a clay bar kit (use it after washing, before polishing) but your paint is new so you have time to build up to that.

Good luck....

Ralf S.
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Sounds like it should tidy up with a bit of polish. Give the car a good wash then polish with some autoglym Super resin polish then you'll need to apply a wax or sealant. Either that find a local detailer and get them to do it, could be around £100-200 for a thorough job though.
 
(Post Link) post #10 of 16 Old 21-07-09 Thread Starter
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Thanks for your advice Ralf

Appreciate it
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Try posting some pics of the swirls. Might not be as bad as you think.

To remove bugs and bird poo, tissue paper, warm water and leave tissue for 10 mins. All comes off easy then, no rubbing or chemicals needed.
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And you don't have to... touch it! Groooooooo!


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(Post Link) post #13 of 16 Old 25-07-09 Thread Starter
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hi guys

Im going to buy some SRP to help get rid of some of the swirls that the car has after the insect remover saga!!!

Should i do just the patches that are effected or should i do the whole bonnet and the front bumper section?

Also do i apply it with a foam applicator in a circular motion or a straight motion?

Thanks
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I'd going to buck the trend here and say bring on the T-cut(metallic)!

I heard nothing but bad things about t-cut but a fter reading a thread on Detailing Wold a few weeks back I tried it and liked it (I bought t-cut metallic, apparently it's completly different). I would never t-cut a full car (simply because it's hardwork ) but it's handy for any rough spots. Just remember to refine it with a lighter polish and a wax/ sealent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deano9 View Post
hi guys

Im going to buy some SRP to help get rid of some of the swirls that the car has after the insect remover saga!!!

Should i do just the patches that are effected or should i do the whole bonnet and the front bumper section?

Also do i apply it with a foam applicator in a circular motion or a straight motion?

Thanks
Use a slightly damp applicator.

Make sure the area where the swirl is is washed clean (no grit or dirt).

Use a small amount of SRP on the applicator. Circular motion is easiest but since you shouldn't be rubbing it on any dirt likely to mark the paint, it doesn't matter if you use back-and-forward.

Cooncentrate just on the swirled area so you can give your attention. Applying moderate pressure for longer is better than really leaning on it too hard.

Afterwards do the whole car but you won't need to be as intense. SRP should go on with just minor pressure as you're applying fillers to the surface as well as giving it the faintest of polishes.

Afterwards stick some wax on it, though SRP is reasonably durable as a top-coat protection.


Ralf S.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10,500RPM View Post
I'd going to buck the trend here and say bring on the T-cut(metallic)!

I heard nothing but bad things about t-cut but a fter reading a thread on Detailing Wold a few weeks back I tried it and liked it (I bought t-cut metallic, apparently it's completly different). I would never t-cut a full car (simply because it's hardwork ) but it's handy for any rough spots. Just remember to refine it with a lighter polish and a wax/ sealent
Aye! I think the problem with T-Cut is that it's very easy to do damage with it, if you don't take care. It's amore abrasive than just about anything else you can buy, outside specialist body-shop compounds. Otherwise, used carefully, it can be very useful.


Ralf S.
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