AO Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The land that Time forgot
Wash the car really thoroughly first. You want to remove any "loose" grit or dirt using the shampoo/water/mitt rather than leaving it for the clay. This helps the clay to work on just the bonded-on contaminants, it doesn't foul it up so much and prevents the clay (actually the grit) from marking the paint.
Knead the clay in your hands to make it soft (keep it indoors overnight, so it's already warm and soft) and then form it into a shape you can hold in your fingers but with a flat surface.
Use a bit of the spray on a panel or 12" square section, then just rub the paint surface with the flat surface of the clay. Don't press, just glide the clay over the surface.
Every so often, have a look at the clay. If it's getting too soiled, fold the surface over, knead it some more and then form it into a fresh flat surface and carry on. The dirtier the clay, the more chance of swirling the paint, so turn the surface often.
Some people state "use LOTS of lube". I found that you can tell how much lube you need.. if the clay starts to "stick" to the paint you need more lube. Too much lube makes the clay eventually go "sticky" in your hands (you'll know when it happens) so at that point the clay is on its way out. The Meg's bar is "fine" and not very likely to scratch your paint (some clays are more aggressive) so you don't need too much lube.
I found the Megs claybar did my 155 half a dozen times before it started going too sticky. I'm going to still have the second bar (I had the bigger 2-bars kit) when the Meg's lube runs out.
No bullets for Chaingun..