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(Post Link) post #1 of 18 Old 27-04-09 Thread Starter
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Help!

Ive had a good look through this forum but all of the very helpful detail has got me from clueless to confused. I need to give my GT a good wash/etc but, with my previous bangers, Ive only ever used a bucket and sponge.

I've also got a very light scratch that needs touching up.

So what do I need to do? I want to give the car one really good clean every few months or so, and then be able to do regular but less intensive cleans in between.

I have a bit of a mish mash of products around - have some Collinite 476, some Einzett shampoo, some Meguairs pre-treatment cleaner and Ive picked up a few microfibre cloths and mitts, and some wax applicators

I also have some T-Cut for the scratch.

What else do I need? Polish? Would a polish-and-wax be useful? What are the real basics mistakes that I need to avoid?

Sorry for all the questions.
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Re: Help!

Hiya.

Be careful with that t-cut it is very aggressive. Give Meguiar's a call, you'll get the number from Meguiar's UK - Car Care Products and they'll help you over the phone with choosing the correct products and applicators for your car given the paint type, condition, level of swirling or scratching etc. They'll also explain the difference between a polish and a wax.

I did this once and I have never looked back. I spoke to a guy called Tom and he took the time to ask all about what I wanted and what the paint, trim, chrome and leather was like before he recommended anything and in most cases it was not a case of "the most expensive is what you need", but a genuine knowledge and understanding on Tom's part in selecting the right stuff.

IMHO I can't fault anything they've ever supplied me with.

Like everything else if you trust the pros you'll get the job done right!

Cheers
D

Last edited by tifosi27; 27-04-09 at 11:58. Reason: forgot stuff again coz it's Monday....
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Re: Help!

for the cheap option this is what id do.

I'd start with the einzett shampoo
clay ( yourd have to buy )
use some autoglym SRP
wax with Coli 476

expensive option
wash with einzett
clay ( buy )
zaino AIO ( buy )
Zaino z8 ( buy



Its nice when you do the regular clean use some detaing spray to help drying and final buff to ridd of water marks ( megs ultimate spray ) is good and cheap
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Re: Help!

and between/for big washes always use two buckets with a grit guards in both, one for wash and one for rinse. and if u have a sponge bin it, and get yourself a nice lambswool wash mitt.

that will be a good place to start
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Re: Help!

It sounds like you have the basics so you just need to build on that and maybe work out a programme.

Remember the steps:
1. wash
2. clay
3. polish
4. wax
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(Post Link) post #6 of 18 Old 27-04-09 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!

Thanks lads, that's a great help. Im a bit lost on the claying front in particular. Is it that important and/or difficult to do? I dont want to mess the car up on my first go!
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Re: Help!

1. Wash vehicle very well to loosen surface dirt. Getting the surface as clean as possible will reduce wear on the clay bar and extend the life of your bar by reducing the amount of contaminants that need to be lifted by clay

2. Mist a 2 x2 square foot area generously with lube and spray down clay bar as well. . Hold clay against the surface and glide it back and forth.

3. the clay may grab the surface initially. This grabbing indicates that the clay is encountering contamination so keep it very well lubed with lube.. Continue rubbing gently until clay glides freely.

4. Occasionally check clay bar for heavy contaminants that may be stuck onto bar, you may want to spray lube onto clay or rinse clay bar clean under water prior to every use or if dirty.

5. Using lube occasionally spray surface down and Wipe each section with a micro fiber towel, this process will wipe away contaminates and reduce friction and possible marring of surface through friction.

6. Once you have clayed the Paint, you can clay the windows as well. Follow the same directions for windows this will reduce streaking when using your wipers and accelerate water runoff when it rains.

7. Wash Vehicle again once completed, this will assure that all contaminates that were removed are safely washed off of the surface where they can no longer to hard to paint.

Few...glad that write up is done
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Re: Help!

It's much easier than you think.

It sounds complicated but once you start it goes quite quickly and you will be amazed at the gunk that appears on the clay.

It leaves the surface silky smooth, ready to be polished and waxed.
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(Post Link) post #9 of 18 Old 28-04-09 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!

Cheers lads - the step by step is very helpful for the complete novices like myself. Any particular products you'd recommend? Either for the clay or for the polishing?
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Re: Help!

You said in your first post that you had:

"Meguiars pre-treatment cleaner" which presumably is;

Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner - better known as Step 1

Why don't you therefore try:

Deep Crystal System Polish - better known as Step 2
It is a very good value for money polish, easy to apply (it is a wipe on wipe off product - do not let it dry)

Then you apply the Collinite 476 Wax
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Re: Help!

Meguiars do a "Quick Clay Detailing System" - basically one or two clay bars in a box with a bottle of their Quick Detail spray.

Massage the clay to get it warm.. squirt the Detail spray onto the paint, rub it gently with clay bar until it's smoother than a baby's backside.

You don't need to apply any pressure at all to the clay.. just slide it back and forth ... use as much or little detail spray to keep it moving nicely without "sticking" and turn the clay regularly (you'll see it covered in black/brown stains pretty quickly).

If the clay isn't sticking and you're not pushing hard on it, you can't mess it up with the Meguiars kit. Other clays can be more aggressive and need more care... (clay comes in fine and coarse) but the Meg's stuff is "fine".

Once you got the hang of it.. you'll be confident enough to try different brands of clay and detail spray until you find one you like.. but there's not much wrong with the Meg's to be honest.

Once you're dun-claying.. wash the beast (you'll be surprised how easy it is now) and wax it to buggeration.. use up to 6 coats of that Collinite.. more than that you end up with diminishing returns.


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Re: Help!

I would still polish after claying and before waxing.

If you are going to go to all that trouble do it proper.
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Re: Help!

Aye! It depends what the paint looks like, I suppose.

Ralf S.
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(Post Link) post #14 of 18 Old 28-04-09 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!

Thanks lads - I feel much less out of my depth now. At least until I start! The paint work's in pretty good nick actually, but I live beside the sea so I want to give it a really good protective clean and coat as the salt in the air our here has been known to eat cars alive.
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(Post Link) post #15 of 18 Old 29-04-09 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!

Last question (I hope) - a mate of mine has suggested Carlack for the polishing stage, but when Ive checked it out on the web it seems to be more of a sealant/wax type product. Is that right?
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Re: Help!

I use Carlack and the 68 NS (AIO) is a cleaner polish (if you Google Klasse AIO you will read all about it on the US sites like Autopia).

But you are right in that it is not abrasive so if you want to correct scratches and swirls you would need something with more "bite".

I used my G220 with a polishing pad and Meguiars M83, I then applied the Car-Lack 68 NS by hand and followed up with The Car-lack Long Life Sealant Acryl Wax. These two products are often referred to as "The Car-Lack Twins". Finally I applied a coat of P21S Carnauba Wax.

If you want to read all about Car-Lack I suggest you go to cleanyourcar.co.uk and click on Sealants. Look for Car-Lack

This is the result:

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(Post Link) post #17 of 18 Old 30-04-09 Thread Starter
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Re: Help!

Very nice (both the car and the place)! Am I right in thinking that the clay should have taken out any scratches and swirls, etc? Or does it only remove imperfections like tar and so on?

Would this be the right system, or overkill?

1. Pre-treatment wash.
2. Wash.
3. Clay and lube.
4. Wash again.
5. Polish or carlack.
5. Collinite 476.

And then a bit of a wash and detailing spray regularly in between major cleans.
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Re: Help!

Aye! That'd do it.

Clay doesn't remove swirls or scratches.. in fact a heavy duty ("coarse") clay can add them. Clay sticks to the contaminants in the paint and pulls them out, so clay is generally miles kinder to the paint than polishing. Make sure you change the clay round as you go.. don't let the surface you're using get too dirty.

Polish relies on reducing the level of the paint to the level of the scratches in order to "remove" them.. actually you can see it's the paint that's being removed.

Anyway.. clay clears the grit, polish removes the scratches. Some polishes (especially any designed for machines) start more abrasive so you get a goor initial bite.. and then break down into finer particles so that the polish becomes less abrasive (leaves a deeper finish) as you work it.

You don't have to do the whole job in one go. You can attack the paint with a more abrasive polish and then come back a few weeks later to finish the job with a finer polish. Just wax the final surface you want to protect as clay and polishing will remove any wax on there.


Ralf S.

Just end with a wax..
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