Upper rear wishbone bushes - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 35 Old 12-04-19 Thread Starter
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Upper rear wishbone bushes

Hello all,

I bought a full set of powerflex bushes for the spider and I've discovered the upper wishbones ones won't fit by a country mile.

Where is the best place to get replacement metalastic ones?

Also if anyone wants a brand new set of 4 poly bushes make me an offer
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Do they fit without the supplied washers? I've fitted mine without the washers, believe others on here have done so too.
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its the fork shaped upper not the lower. the bushes from powerflex are the right size but won't fit the wishbone shape.
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I was referring to rear upper fork bushes. Try contacting Powerflex with your problem, they might be able to help.

Last edited by antonius_2; 13-04-19 at 11:39.
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oh right - these don't come with washers. I wonder if I have the right part as they don't even fit the hole.
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I suspect that too, hence why it's a good idea to contact Powerflex, they are quite helpful with inquiries. In the past these bushes for the rear forks were supplied with washes even though they were not required, it was a nice tight fit without them. Thats the reason why I ask you if you had been attempting to fit them with the washes.
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I've had this problem and sent powerflex a detailed explanation of what it was doing to my rear suspension. they never replied to me which is annoying. So basically they were so tight a fit that it was restricting the movement in the upper arm so the spring wasn't forcing the suspension back to the start position. Once I got that stuff out and replaced with originals the ride height went up 4cm and I didn't get the weird bouncing effect from the rear end.. I guess they are the hard black plastic ones.. not good as far as I'm concerned..
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I'm in contact with someone at powerflex so i'm going to raise it with them on Monday. I've managed to get the black plastic part in the the arm but now the metal sleeve won't go in.

I'll reply back with any response.
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Originally Posted by wictod View Post
I've had this problem and sent powerflex a detailed explanation of what it was doing to my rear suspension. they never replied to me which is annoying. So basically they were so tight a fit that it was restricting the movement in the upper arm so the spring wasn't forcing the suspension back to the start position. Once I got that stuff out and replaced with originals the ride height went up 4cm and I didn't get the weird bouncing effect from the rear end.. I guess they are the hard black plastic ones.. not good as far as I'm concerned..
Ah you got to the bottom of that problem in the end did you, good to hear, it was a bit of a mystery.
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Ah you got to the bottom of that problem in the end did you, good to hear, it was a bit of a mystery.
cgc, yes what a hassle.. like most of these suspension related issues, theyr'e a real pain as once they're in and not working you have to really make good the time fixing it because of the ball ache ripping it out again, especially if you don't have your own facilities. When they tried to remove them it was a right struggle so i knew something was wrong.. thinking about it now, how did they get them in there in the first place.. must of been in the same position as jonesy1976 ..

Did you get your front end suspension rebuilt with no issues?
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cgc, yes what a hassle.. like most of these suspension related issues, theyr'e a real pain as once they're in and not working you have to really make good the time fixing it because of the ball ache ripping it out again, especially if you don't have your own facilities. When they tried to remove them it was a right struggle so i knew something was wrong.. thinking about it now, how did they get them in there in the first place.. must of been in the same position as jonesy1976 ..

Did you get your front end suspension rebuilt with no issues?
It's being done on Tuesday, I'm not embarrassed to say I'm quite excited.
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Are you sure that the fork on the subframe just doesn't want opening up a bit ? Don't fit them without the washers

To be honest I don't think they are that good .You will probably find that once tightened they restrict the movement of the the arms especially when they have been used to replace the bearing type bushes

in theory those poly bushes once tightened with the washers in place should only give light pressure on the side of the bush up against the washer ,leaving the metal sleeve to move quite free . In other words the washers should tighten up against the metal sleeve leaving only light pressure on the sides to stop them coming out , if you don't use the washers they can start to come out asine did on the lower rear hub .Use the right grease

Last edited by Markalfa15; 14-04-19 at 05:42.
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in theory those poly bushes once tightened with the washers in place should only give light pressure on the side of the bush up against the washer ,leaving the metal sleeve to move quite free . In other words the washers should tighten up against the metal sleeve leaving only light pressure on the sides to stop them coming out , if you don't use the washers they can start to come out asine did on the lower rear hub .Use the right grease
Are those washers really required? After all there are no washers for the dogleg arm to subframe joint Powerflex bush.
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Yeh but the original bushes are not in 2 Half's .When I did mine ( I only put poly bushes on the spring pans ) , on the hub side they started to come out

I never used the washers to begin with, because I couldn't get them in .It dawned on me a couple of months later that I should of opened the fork section on the hub .Did this with some threaded bar and a couple of nuts .Opened up a couple of mill and they went in

As far as the subframe side goes there is more meat on the subframe to hold the bushes in and the sides of the subframe are smoother,so the sides of the subframe work like the washers would

The spring pan pivot is a lot tighter at subframe end when tightened up .Always think this has in effect stiffened the suspension ,but also put more tension on the welds of the tubular spring pans .I was useing Strongflex bushes probably just as good but cheaper

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My GTV is polybushed and rides really stiff. Bumpy. Is that just something you have to live with to have the control?
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I’ve found there’s no way to fit washers on the upper wishbones, there’s no physical space, not a chance. Plus they don’t come with washers. If anyone has done this then I suspect your rear travel would be seriously reduced if you’ve forced washers into the subframe. I also think that the engineering tolerances used on the rear subframe are not that great. I’ve fitted rear uppers on one subframe and the same poly’d upper forks did not fit another.

I have some on now and they work absolutely normal, good travel. I was careful to use the correct torque settings when tightening them back up.


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Thats right the subframe sides don't need the washers as the sides of the subframe are flat and cover a fair part of the sides of the bush .But the hub side of the spring pan is different ,and the same goes for the dog legs ,you cannot fir them without washers .There is nothing else holding them in

At the end of the day the when tightened up you are tighening on the centre steel bush with minimum interference on the sides .This is when things stiffen up
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I never used the washers to begin with, because I couldn't get them in .It dawned on me a couple of months later that I should of opened the fork section on the hub .Did this with some threaded bar and a couple of nuts .Opened up a couple of mill and they went in
As I've mentioned on mine it was a tight fit without the washes, to make room for the washes it would have needed opening up by 4-5mm, and that was something I was not comfortable doing with aluminium.
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I am going on about the hub and not the subframe .Like you say I wouldn't attempt to open up alloy subframe it will end in tears

When the bushes are fitted to the suspension arms and the centre steel tube incerted there shouldn't be much in the way of the poly bush hanging over the sides of the steel tube

If there is when tightened this will restrict even more how free the arm moves The original bearing types bushes are better ( where used),but don't last as long and more akward to replace ,as well as more expensive
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I am going on about the hub and not the subframe .Like you say I wouldn't attempt to open up alloy subframe it will end in tears
I thought you were referring to the upper fork subframe joint. I have experienced that too with Polybushes on the spring pan hub joint, on one side it fitted with washes, and the other side it did not. I made not attempt at widening that gap to get the washes in, it was very tight to begin with.
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I only changed the spring pan bushes on mine the subframe side didn't have any washer ,and doesn't need them ,but the hub side did .It is worth going the extra effort to open hub fork and get them in with washers

Like I have said though they are tight on the subframe side when tighened ,probably the same for upper wish bones .All this adds the make the suspension stiffer or bumbier as a previous poster has said
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I think I'd use the original bushes, it sounds a lot less hassle if you're not going to be doing many miles. Also the original sephical bushes allow the necessary easy movement needed to take full advantage of the geometry setup, certainly keep them in the spring pans and dog legs.

Last edited by cgc; 14-04-19 at 17:37.
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Think I've found the root cause of the problem - the upper wishbone hole is 30mm wide whereas the bush is 32mm. Every other dimension is sound.

Going to throw that one at powerflex tomorrow and see what they come back with.
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Whats the difference of the sleeve of an original bush and the sleeve of poly bush ? And does the sleeve of the poly bush fit in the fork with or without washers ?
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my poly bushes are spot on width but not thickness - washers would be difficult to insert.

If anything the original bushes were hard to get out, but there was a lot of rust to contend with.

In fact you could say that about most of my restoration tbf.
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