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(Post Link) post #1 of 34 Old 06-06-12 Thread Starter
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Hmmm 147GTA not starting - clicking sound

Hello everyone!

Have '04 147 GTA that's causing me some head ache right now.

During the winter the battery lost charge, and the car refused to start. Reconditioned the battery and fully charged it only to get the error message "Immobiliz. failure" which seems to indicate that I need to do enter the CODE-code to start the engine. Unfortunately my bad luck doesn't end here:

The engine makes a rythmic clicking sound (seems to come from where the air intake connects to the block of the engine (sorry about my lack of better english terms to describe where the sound comes from). Also the Check engine-lamp blinks in sync with the ticking sound - what could this be? A stuck relay? Is there an easy fix for this? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

// Olmok
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Does actually sound like your batt is dead.

Have you tried to jump start it?
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It does sound like your battery is dead/weak. That clicking sound is probably your solenoid for your starter trying to engage but hasn't got the power.
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Thanks for the quick response!

I'm pretty sure the solenoid isn't the issue - I removed the air hoses (?) and noted that the throttle thingy was ... eh ... spazzing out This is all when in MAR btw. I tried disconnecting the throttle thingy and both sound and Check engine disappeared - of course the engine wont start tho, as no air is let in..

//Olmok
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So is the starter engaging then? - Trying to turn the engine over.
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Did you try jumping the car?

Will save you getting your hands dirty and will prob tell you if your batt is dead or alive....give it a shot, bet it starts
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Did you try jumping the car?

Will save you getting your hands dirty and will prob tell you if your batt is dead or alive....give it a shot, bet it starts
DO NOT JUMP START you can blow the ecu...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olmok View Post
Thanks for the quick response!

I'm pretty sure the solenoid isn't the issue - I removed the air hoses (?) and noted that the throttle thingy was ... eh ... spazzing out This is all when in MAR btw. I tried disconnecting the throttle thingy and both sound and Check engine disappeared - of course the engine wont start tho, as no air is let in..

//Olmok
throttle thingy will do that ......you need to get your codes read and with you disconnecting you have put more fault codes in ecu

get your battery checked
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ps is your key code light going out when you turn ignition on
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(Post Link) post #10 of 34 Old 06-06-12 Thread Starter
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Sorry for the late response - been out and only been able to check replies on my phone!

I'll try to get my codes read and reset tomorrow (have a ODBII-reader that should do the trick, if not I might have to get another one).

I did try to jump start it before I reconditioned the battery - I've read somewhere (Owner's Manual?) about that being hazardous to the ECU, and am somewhat afraid that I might have damaged it. Hopefully that isn't the case!

Current status is:
With the throttle body (I think that's the name of the part) disconnected and key on MAR - no sound, no Check engine, no Immob. failure. Turned the key real quick to see if the starter engine would engage, and it did.

With relay #10 (I think it was #10, have left the garage and am at home now, it's the topmost right relay (12V/30A/red)) pulled out and key on MAR - no sound, Check engine light on and Immob. failure warning. Haven't tried turning the key like this yet.

With throttle body and relay hooked up properly - clicking sound (which comes from the throttle trying to open just to close at once again), flickering Check Engine light and Immob. failure warning. When I turn the key, the starter engine engages, but the engine doesn't start (which is to be expected due to the Immob. failure).

I have the CODE-code needed to do an emergency start, but fail to get in to that mode (the Owner's Manual states that I should put the key on MAR, and press the accelerator for 8 seconds to get the check engine to start flashing). When I first got the Immob. failure warning, I figured that the car had forgotten about my keys while being unpowered for an extended period of time (during winter).

I guess I have a few options - testing a different battery will probably be the first, after that getting a new relay (which seems unlikely, but cheap enough to test). If that fails it's either the throttle body or the ECU that's fried.

Any other suggestions are highly appreciated!

Thanks,

Olmok
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list error codes here ....the ones you first read and secondly your new ones after clearing
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(Post Link) post #12 of 34 Old 06-06-12 Thread Starter
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I'll make sure to do that!

Any help understanding the codes will be appreciated - don't have a service manual for the car (where I suppose the codes will be listed, unless standard codes)!

// Olmok
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just hope its not codes of death of an ecu
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(Post Link) post #14 of 34 Old 06-06-12 Thread Starter
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Yeah :/

What would my options be if the ECU is fried? Can it be replaced? At what cost? I get a bad feeling in my gut just thinking of it o_O

// Olmok
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Yeah :/

What would my options be if the ECU is fried? Can it be replaced? At what cost? I get a bad feeling in my gut just thinking of it o_O

// Olmok
read codes first ...maybe simple fix .......ive asked for this thread to be moved to gta forum ..you may get more positive input
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(Post Link) post #16 of 34 Old 06-06-12 Thread Starter
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You're right, better not skip ahead down a depressing route such as the one of a fried ECU

Oh, thanks. Was unsure if this was the right forum or if the GTA was the one. Thanks!

// Olmok
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Tjena. There was somebody in the gta Forum with similar problems a while back https://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...ve-i-done.html

Let's hope it turns out better for you.
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(Post Link) post #18 of 34 Old 06-06-12 Thread Starter
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Ouch, that wasn't fun to read

Well, hopefully there's an easy fix, at least I'll keep my hopes up 'til proven wrong
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I've encountered this before... flickering engine light and throttle body chattering is indicative of ECU failure, and ties in with the flat battery/ jump-start scenario.
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Quote:
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DO NOT JUMP START you can blow the ecu...
OOO sorry for recommending that!

That I didnt know.....wont be doing that again.
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Hi... I hate to be the bringer of bad news, but I had the same thing 3 months ago or so....

In the last 2 or 3 months there have been at least 6 or 7 ecu failures on GTAs, all with these exact symptoms... just on these forums. I guess the cars are getting to an age where the ecu is dying. Very strange though.. it must be a weakpoint in the ecu.. I even sent the ecu to be fixed but didn't have any luck. Only options are a new ecu from Gus (alfatuner) for £700, new from Alfa for about £1100.. or buy a 2nd hand ecu, body computer, locks and key .. and replace them all. But who knows, maybe that ecu will die after 1 week.. so not a good option really. And there's never any for sale anyway. If you search the forum there is at least 4 other threads about the ecu failures for you to read. Honestly I spent about £100 and many hours over a 4 week period trying everything to fix it.. I think it is a soldered connection maybe getting brittle and breaking connection inside the ecu. I could fix it very briefly by pulling the ecu into the engine block with all my weight, but as soon as I let go it would die. Disconnecting the throttle body fixed the error, but obviously the car didn't work. Reconnect and it wouldn't work again.. It sucks!

The new ecu just 'plugs and plays' and learns the code from the body computer the first time you turn it on..

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I had a problem with the code light on , my specialist dismissed a blown ECU straight away stating that he had not experienced a blown ECU on a GTA in his years of experience. He said it would be a faulty relay (£13 part). Once he had it in his workshop he ran the diagnostics changed all of the relay's (at the front of the engine) cleared down the 30 or so faults showing on the diagnostic computer and now it runs as sweet as before. Bad contacts on the relays and possible relay failure is the commonest problem. So don't despair. Cost of repair - £120
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Originally Posted by Maser3200 View Post
I had a problem with the code light on , my specialist dismissed a blown ECU straight away stating that he had not experienced a blown ECU on a GTA in his years of experience. He said it would be a faulty relay (£13 part). Once he had it in his workshop he ran the diagnostics changed all of the relay's (at the front of the engine) cleared down the 30 or so faults showing on the diagnostic computer and now it runs as sweet as before. Bad contacts on the relays and possible relay failure is the commonest problem. So don't despair. Cost of repair - £120
Was your 'CODE' flickering, the dash flickering, and the throttle body clicking open and closed rapidly? These are the indicators of a f0rked ecu, and he seems to have them
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(Post Link) post #24 of 34 Old 07-06-12 Thread Starter
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Hi everyone,

thanks for all the interest shown! The intertubes really is awesome at times

I tried pulling the codes with my ODBII-reader, but didn't receive any errors - this makes me even more certain that the ECU is dead It should be possible to read the codes with a standard ODBII-reader, right?

Anyway, I'll start looking into how to get an ECU, if ordering one from UK or sourcing it locally (Sweden) is a better way. I'll keep updating this thread with my progress!

Thanks again everyone!

// Olmok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olmok View Post
Hi everyone,

thanks for all the interest shown! The intertubes really is awesome at times

I tried pulling the codes with my ODBII-reader, but didn't receive any errors - this makes me even more certain that the ECU is dead It should be possible to read the codes with a standard ODBII-reader, right?

Anyway, I'll start looking into how to get an ECU, if ordering one from UK or sourcing it locally (Sweden) is a better way. I'll keep updating this thread with my progress!

Thanks again everyone!

// Olmok
I think you will have very limited options on where to buy it. Gus (alfatuner on here) or Alfa Romeo basically.
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