159 - Replaced dud battery and diagonal indicators now don't work - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 13 Old 05-04-19 Thread Starter
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159 - Replaced dud battery and diagonal indicators now don't work

'Diagonal?'
Let me explain...
When I replaced the battery, the front left and rear right indicators stopped working, but there is no warning on the dash, and the indicators don't flash rapidly when put on so unless you can check externally you wouldn't know.
The side indicators and front right rear left all work fine.
Hazard and security activation also show the same problem.
Replaced the bulbs (which look ok on inspection but replaced them anyway) and still no result.
There are some other grumbles but that's for another post.

Fuse is ok - was hoping there would be a frontright-rearleft fuse but there is only 1 apparently.

I reckon there is some single point of failure for both indicators, but I don't know where it would be.
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Had very similar happen on my last Jeep....disconnecting the battery and leaving it for half an hour before reconnecting cured it.
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(Post Link) post #3 of 13 Old 08-04-19 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaitalia View Post
Had very similar happen on my last Jeep....disconnecting the battery and leaving it for half an hour before reconnecting cured it.
Gave it a go and reconnected the battery after 40 minutes.

Didn't work, but also the radio code didn't need re-entering, so maybe I needed to leave it some more to fully drain any reserve...

Got it booked into auto spare for that and turbo system err code.
Will see what the outcome is one way or the other.
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If you have the original radio (in the one it left the factory with) then the code will NEVER need re-entering as it's code is in the cars BCM....if your need to enter the code after the battery had been disconnected then it's not the original radio.....My battery was off for days when I was working on it...radio fired right up when I reconnected it. Just as well as I don't have the code!
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I had to enter the code after replacing the battery actually, but it was the correct radio code, so I am a bit unsure of why that was.
I still haven’t resolved the problem and need to find a trusted auto electrician who deals with Alfa’s - I am not sure if I correctly followed the …CU reset procedure as what I did was pretty simple, just disconnecting for a few hours then reconnecting, and I don’t want to keep trying variations of that.
Would be good if someone had such a number in their contacts list in midlands or Cheshire areas
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(Post Link) post #6 of 13 Old 12-04-19 Thread Starter
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So far worst case scenario seems to be BCM replacement...
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(Post Link) post #7 of 13 Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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ok stakes went up: key fob set off alarm when unlocking, at first, now fob doesn’t register at all, and I can’t get the key to rotate in the lock. Am I right in thinking all this may be BCM? Or am I jumping to worst case too quick?
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(Post Link) post #8 of 13 Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Dear monologue diary,

It seems I am alone on this desert island 🏝️, with nothing to eat but cloverleafs ☘️ , and a flat calm silently mocking my ears.

The red vessel stands inscrutable, all efforts to penetrate its mysteries futile.

Viking burial seems like the simplest option in this darkest hour.
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(Post Link) post #9 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Right, not promising I can help in any way, but at least you/re not being ignored!

Firstly, have you found an auto electrician to take a look at it yet? BCM is probably the worst case scenario, but can't say I've heard of too many - on the cars whose BCMs fail it's usually down to water ingress or other factors.

If not, have you got a multimeter? start by checking the battery voltage - anything less that 12.8V is not good enough - have you checked the connections are secure, and the battery terminals are clean-ish? more often than not most of the electrical gremlins are symptoms of low voltage/bad earthing.

Secondly, check the condition of the earth straps, if they're suspect, undo them and clean them, depending on your car you will most likely have at least 2, one battery to chassis, and 1 chassis to top of gearbox - you can test by rigging up another using a jump lead from the negative terminal to a clean piece of metal on the engine.

Check the fuses on top of the battery, these are often neglected - also, you should find an inertial terminal which cuts all power in the event of an accident - mine is a black box with a yellow button - press that button.

Apologies if this is teaching you to suck eggs btw, as you've been working in that area, I'd suggest its something following your work - you didn't short anything out at all when removing the battery at all?

Anyone in the area with a copy of MultiECUScan could easily check if your BCM is gone.

You also mention other grumbles, it'd be helpful to know what they are, as they may be related, despite not seeming possible - also, please let us know what car and engine you have - in case I've missed it.

Posting from my phone - excuse spelling mistakes
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(Post Link) post #10 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Many batteries don't get above 12.6 when charged....so saying anything under 12.8 is not good enough could cause him to think that his perfectly good battery is faulty . Optima say that ...Quote "12.4 is the Magic Number for Batteries" with there red tops, when new, averaging 12.6 charged and only some of their high performance and specialist batteries giving more...some expensive ones producing 13 to 13.2. But this is when they are brand new.....a battery does not have to be that old to only just make 12.4 volts. Anything below 12v is bad and will cause the plates to sulphate and the fast demise of the battery. Also dont check the battery voltage for at least an hour after charging or switching the charger off.....if you do it will give an artificially high voltage until the battery has settled. Not saying that a battery is not the OPs issues.....just that you cant really generalise about the voltage.

My battery has been around the 12.1 to 12.2 volts since I bought the car 15 months ago.....the dealer had to use the pack to start it! I used that to chip the price a bit...expecting to have to replace is soon....15 months later its still going fine with no electrical side effects....so far....but there are always a set of jump leads in my car for when it dies! Luckily we are a battery dealer at work ( although we only actually stock leisure batteries) so I can get one for good money when the time comes!!
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(Post Link) post #11 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I stand corrected - well actually, I've only ever used 12.7 as a benchmark, but googled it to be sure....

Anyway, OP - if it's not making 12V, chuck it on charge, or get a new one - I recommend Tayna for batteries.
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(Post Link) post #12 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Have you plugged in mes to the BCM and seen if any faults are logged?
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(Post Link) post #13 of 13 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Thanks All -

Remote worked when the weather warmed dip, and the probably cause of that was poor terminal connection tasty improved on warming.

I did initially engage and auto electricianto check what was going on when the indicators went down and simple checks didn't resolve them, and they recommended pessimism due to costs of investigation.
I am not typically pessimistic, and think keeping a classy car on the road is just, well, better, though sometimes its hard to believe.

Got in touch with a long time posting pro on this forum (alfatunemotorsport) - and will be dropping the car by in the next week or two for an opinion.

Some of the other issues:
  • auto lights on stopped working
  • key volume doesnt change
  • auto wiper function is patchy
In other words small various things that seem twitchy, and can fail for all sorts of reasons
The air conditioning wasn't working, but now it seems to be working again for the first time since I bought it !
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