Loads more of those nightmare ratchet pins on the upper trim. Managed to get them off but again, some were already broken. I had repair work done on the roof because some idiot thought they would put vehicle height restricting bars in an open air car park without any warning signs. I had three bikes on the roof.. Anyway, the repairers clearly didn’t replace the pins. I imagine it’s near impossible not to break at least one pin on each bit of trim. Once one fastening is loose, best way for me was to peel the trim back and wedge a flat head screwdriver into the gap between the adjacent fitting and twist. A specific trim release tool would be better. The pin should progressively snap out and then peel further along and repeat. The 5 x 4mm hex screws for the spoiler were clearly visible but of course, the spoiler is firmly clipped in too! Thanks for the top tip about not lifting the spoiler, this will snap off the lipped lugs from the spoiler. Unfortunately, nobody told the repairers that as the right hand lug was snapped off already! The spoiler needs lifting just a little at the back before tugging because there are protrusions that will catch on the metal panel underneath. The spoiler can then be carefully flipped over being careful not to tug on the brake light cable and washer hose. The light plug has a finger release tab and the hose is pulled off at the rubber end. A bit of spit for lubrication can help but I was still struggling to get the tube off. Don’t drop the spoiler which is easily done during this procedure! I had a screwdriver at hand and found it easier in the end to unscrew the 2 screws that fix the light to the spoiler and put the spoiler safe on the back seat before carrying on. There is a rubber strip along the bottom of the light unit which seems to perish over time. Mine was very fragile and it’s easy for it to fall off or get broken.
The primary purpose of my excercise was to test if power is being delivered to the third brake light. The plan was to hook up a multimeter to the terminals in the power supply plug but the holes are so small there is no way regular multimeter probes will fit. I ended up carefully stripping a bit of insulation from the positive and negative wires on the light unit and connected the probes to the exposed wire. As I had hoped, ~12 V was being delivered upon depressing the brake. As I was going to bite the bullet and order a new light unit in this scenario, the repairable self inflicted damage to the wires was inconsequential. I’m now waiting on the unit from Autolusso. I hope the new unit comes with the rubber strip as mines cracked in a couple of places. Will probably try and crack open the faulty light and see if it’s repairabe. However, even if it is I am going to replace with a brand new unit. I never want to have to go through this procedure again and don’t have much faith in an amateur repair of an 8 year old unit.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by chichibabin; 18-04-18 at 21:15.