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Originally Posted by alfyandmay View Post
hi there

the problem is if you have springs from a 5 pot diesel on a 4 pot diesel the ride height will be to high and because the engine wont compress the springs enough so ride will be very bouncy and choppy

cheers

mark g
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Sorry again I'm little confused

So if I change my self-levelling unit with koni str.t kit and use top mounts from self-levelling unit on koni springs and srt.t shocks. Will my rear and front height be the same?
If the rear will be 10 to 15mm higher that no problem, on the contrary if will be lower
Can somebody correct my confusion here?
Thanks

Last edited by blazo; 02-02-11 at 14:17.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazo View Post
Sorry again I'm little confused

So if I change my self-levelling unit with koni str.t kit and use top mounts from self-levelling unit on koni springs and srt.t shocks. Will my rear and front height be the same?
If the rear will be 10 to 15mm higher that no problem, on the contrary if will be lower
Can somebody correct my confusion here?
Thanks
get some saloon top mounts for rear and fit your suspension and it will be as koni designed
when fitting rears there is hardly any pre load on spring so you can work it out
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davealfa11 View Post
get some saloon top mounts for rear and fit your suspension and it will be as koni designed
when fitting rears there is hardly any pre load on spring so you can work it out
What will happen if I use nivomat top mounts?
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blazo

hi there

i think if you put the rear mounts off your self levelers on with the konis i think it will be 20-30 mm lower at the front and the back will be quite hi. if i was you i would just bite the bullet and go for the kit your car will handle loads better because if the back is a lot higher than the front the handling will become a little bit out of control i think??

cheers

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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfyandmay View Post
hi there

i think if you put the rear mounts off your self levelers on with the konis i think it will be 20-30 mm lower at the front and the back will be quite hi. if i was you i would just bite the bullet and go for the kit your car will handle loads better because if the back is a lot higher than the front the handling will become a little bit out of control i think??

cheers

mark g

no no i think we didn't understand or i don't understand
I will use 4 koni shocks that a fact. if i use rear nivomat top mounts on konis back car probably wont be a 20 mm higher in back or what ?
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Quote:
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no no i think we didn't understand or i don't understand
I will use 4 koni shocks that a fact. if i use rear nivomat top mounts on konis back car probably wont be a 20 mm higher in back or what ?
ones ive seen on here are too high in relation to front
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Quote:
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What will happen if I use nivomat top mounts?
I don't think any of us knows for sure what difference is between the standard and Nivomat top mounts

Safest thing is to fit the standard ones with your kit, but please compare the mounts for us!
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hi

i am fitting my konis this weekend so will take some photos of the saloon top mounts and the self levelling mounts to see if there is any difference and of course the car when everything on. my left rear shock is knocking like a good un now there cant be much fluid left in it everytime i jack the car up there is always a puddle of the stuff on the drive when i drive away.

cheers

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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfyandmay View Post
hi

i am fitting my konis this weekend so will take some photos of the saloon top mounts and the self levelling mounts to see if there is any difference and of course the car when everything on. my left rear shock is knocking like a good un now there cant be much fluid left in it everytime i jack the car up there is always a puddle of the stuff on the drive when i drive away.

cheers

mark g
when you do put tape measure on unit prior to fitting so they can see difference
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when you do put tape measure on unit prior to fitting so they can see difference
+1
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Hmmm

hi

no problem will take a few photos of bits and pieces and different stages i think the front will be the hardest bit either way i think it will be an all day job.

cheers

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hi

no problem will take a few photos of bits and pieces and different stages i think the front will be the hardest bit either way i think it will be an all day job.

cheers

mark g
backs are harder if bolts seized in hub
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backs are harder if bolts seized in hub
+1

I REALLY thought mine weren't gonna come off for a while. Fronts would have been more successful if I hadn't mashed the head off the driver's side clamp bolt.

Be VERY careful if they're the external torx variety. I thought (wrongly) that an E16 was working and it turned out to be too big, hence the mashed bolt head - made from some kind of metallic cheese it would appear

E14 is the right size! Have a blowtorch handy. + I can't recommend Loctite 8040 spray highly enough. It's fantastic stuff! (See pic)
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I spent 26 hours over 3 weekends removing and re-fitting 4 x shocks and springs on my old 156.. A big eye opener and I learnt a lot, but would I do it again in a small garage with just a pit, screw jacks and hand-tools? Would I B***ocks!

Last time I did it in the workshop over a weekend it took me about 9 hours all in, I didn't have air tools but I did have a battery gun. So much nicer when the car is at chest height, rather than having to get down on the floor all the time..

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hi there

thanks for that it really fills me with loads of confidence

can you not just cut the torx bolt off and use a nut and pin to clamp the fork ?

all the suspension has been apart over the past couple of years for wishbones etc but will spray releasing agent everywhere on friday night ready for saturday

where did you get the loctite from photodave and is there anything similar if i cant get it ?

cheers

mark g
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Once stuck they take a bit of shifting! I replaced my bust one with a bolt using the existing threads (and anti-seize!)

I got the loctite from my local motor factors - Romac in Ripley. Not sure if Halfrauds stock it?
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alfy, don't drink tonight, tomorrow you have work to do

BTW photodave
is your kit working fine, without any problems? because i read a few warranty claims about it..
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Hmmm

hi there

yes your right blazo i have been to get a breaker bar,the torx sockets and some freeze spray today after work couldnt get the loctite one photodave was on about got europarts own brand need to go get some spring compressors in the morning then its all systems g. i will be realistic and say tomorrow get the rears done and anything else will be a bonus any less i will not be happy

cheers

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Quote:
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alfy, don't drink tonight, tomorrow you have work to do

BTW photodave
is your kit working fine, without any problems? because i read a few warranty claims about it..
It's absolutely spot on SO FAR! 7 months on and MOT just passed. Drives well on it too

Mark: good luck chap. Hope all goes well with it!

edit: While you're down there (ahem) check the state of the rear hub bushes out. You don't need to do them as part of the shocks change but if they're bad get a set of poly ones ordered - it transforms the car (IF the old ones are shot)
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Moaning

hi there

thanks for that will do is there just 1 set on each side or 2 sets (might sound thick but never replaced bushes of any description before) but we also have a spider which i am going to do the whole rear end in poly bushes sick of the dam thing sounding like creaky old door.see what tomorrow brings

cheers mark g
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One bush in each hub at the back, if they haven't been changed before you will find you need to remove the brake disc to get the bolt out, for some reason they put the bolt in from what would appear to be the wrong side from the factory.

You can put the bolt in the other way around when re-fitting if you like, although you won't need to change them again for years.
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Cry Like A Baby

hi

cheers for that dont know how they fit but will see once i am underneath

rain stopped play on the suspension its p*****g it down i was young and stupid once but now i am old and wise(or just chicken) i have left it see what the weather is doing tomorrow otherwise it will be next weekend got all the tools ready been out this morning and got some spring compressors then started raining on the way back got up early in the mood and ready for some serious work and am now dissapointed

oh well

sorry guys

cheers

mark g


Last edited by alfyandmay; 05-02-11 at 17:50.
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hi

just had a look on tinterwebb they are on the end of the tie bar is that right?

£45 quid for the 2 powerflex ones rude racing

cheers

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eb spares: about £30 with the VAT

Powerflex replacement trailing arm to hub bush set for Alfa Romeo 156 parts and spares

not actually ON the tie bar but flush fitted in the rear hub. Like Pud says it's a brake disc and heatshield (i think? dodgy memory strikes again!) off job and I would also put the bolts in the other way round afterwards.

Drill through the rubber of the bush a few times and push it out, taking the inner sleeve with it. Use a hacksaw with the blade inverted to cut a slot in the metal sleeve and then knock it out using a screwdriver. The poly ones have a thick metal sleeve that you knock into the hole, then you can push the two halves of the bush in from each side (use plenty of the grease - including on the leading edge of the sleeve). I used a couple of sockets, some large washers and a long bolt + nut as a driver and it worked really well, just using a lump hammer to CAREFULLY start the sleeve off.

Definitely worth doing!

edit: just noticed they've also got a pair of replacement front shock clamp bolts for £3. Might invest!
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