Selespeed woes - need help diagnosing. - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Selespeed woes - need help diagnosing.

This past week I've been experiencing an increasing number of problems with the Selespeed system in my 2002 156 SW 2.0 JTS. I replaced the gearbox last winter reusing the actuator from the old gearbox. The main problems are as follows - it often won't shift into 2 or 4 or drops out of 3 and sometimes won't select R. Also when accelerating it will shift into 2 and then the indicator screen will show it shift directly into 4 even though the gearbox has not shifted gear in this scenario, I have to downshift into 3 (upshifting shifts directly from 2 to 5).
Sometimes it drops into neutral and won't shift at all and I need to pull over, switch off/remove key and wait before starting it again.

The other problem it has had since I replaced the gearbox a few months ago is that it doesn't like to start unless you fiddle with the shifter - shifting into 1 or R, switching off and then starting it

The problems are intermittent but has become very common this past week. I've cleaned all the electrical connectors, ran diagnostics with Multiecuscan (no DTCs) and adjusted the clutch position (which was way out despite me having set correctly it when I replaced the gearbox). System pressure is within spec and selespeed fluid level fine.

None of these problems existed before the car came off the road for the gearbox replacement.

I'm flummoxed - but my educated guess is that it's one of two things.

1. There's a short or shorts in the selespeed wiring loom - possibly damaged/disturbed during the gearbox replacement.
2. The EV2 solenoid valve needs replacing - I've only ever driven the car in autumn/winter before the gearbox replacement so perhaps the hot weather is causing it to act up.

But as I said, these are just guesses.

If anyone can shed some light on these problems it would be much appreciated.
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(Post Link) post #2 of 25 Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I hooked up the diagnostics - this time I got one trouble code relating to engine speed but that's it. Battery voltage is fine. I ran the clutch drain and then attempted the reset/calibration which failed - the first time on the 1-2 upshift, and the second time on the 3-4 upshift. Unfortunately the car is completely fubared now as it won't shift out of N. It will try to shift to 1 or 3 but then drops back into N. Occasionally it shifts into R but trying to shift it into a forward gear just puts it into N. All the parameters seem to be within spec according to the diagnostic software, it's just that before, selecting a gear didn't always translate into engagement. Now it's not even showing an attempt at selection.

Last edited by mrabody; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:48.
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@bazzbazz , can you help?
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First thing i would look at is the clutch rod length and make sure it is 28 - 28.5mm.

Then check the "Pinch Bolt" is torqued correctly. This is the bolt that joins the selespeed actuator to the gear selector horn that protrudes from the top of the gear box.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzbazz View Post
First thing i would look at is the clutch rod length and make sure it is 28 - 28.5mm.

Then check the "Pinch Bolt" is torqued correctly. This is the bolt that joins the selespeed actuator to the gear selector horn that protrudes from the top of the gear box.
Clutch rod is correctly adjusted. What's the torque reading supposed to be on the pinch bolt?
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I've gone and checked the pinch bolt and it's tight.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrabody View Post
Clutch rod is correctly adjusted. What's the torque reading supposed to be on the pinch bolt?
30Nm

What diagnostic software are you using?
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(Post Link) post #8 of 25 Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Multiecuscan
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Can you actuate all the Solenoid Valves individually using MES?
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When I use the actuator function, all the Solenoid Valves work.
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Does it pass the "Engagement Lever Pin Securing Screw Diagnosis" test?
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I've just run it and got status 0F.
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Ok, can you depress the clutch arm by hand?

This is the arm the actuator pushed on, that sits at the top of the gearbox and is what actually depresses the clutch.

You shouldn't be able to move it more than a mm or so, if you can move it forward any amount of notice then I would say the clutch diaphragm fingers have failed.

I suggest this because you mentioned -

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Originally Posted by mrabody View Post
and adjusted the clutch position (which was way out despite me having set correctly it when I replaced the gearbox).
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(Post Link) post #14 of 25 Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
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I tried moving the clutch arm this morning and was unable to. I put a new clutch kit in when I changed the gearbox. I drove the car to work this morning and it functioned perfectly.
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What does Status 0F mean with respect to the "Engagement Lever Pin Securing Screw Diagnosis" mean.
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Originally Posted by mrabody View Post
What does Status 0F mean with respect to the "Engagement Lever Pin Securing Screw Diagnosis" mean.
Means it passed.
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It seems to work better when it's cold/cool out. On the school run this afternoon it wasn't too bad though there were three or four instances where upon coming to a stop the display showed it to be in 3 but when I tried to shift down it went into N and then I had to shift up into 1.
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When parked and with the ignition at MAR, how many gear changes can you get before the pump runs. If the pump runs with every gear change then the accumulator is worn out and needs replacing.
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Quote:
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When parked and with the ignition at MAR, how many gear changes can you get before the pump runs. If the pump runs with every gear change then the accumulator is worn out and needs replacing.
I don't believe the pump operates with every gear change. Will check later.

Last edited by mrabody; 1 Week Ago at 10:07.
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I've checked and the pump starts up on the second shift. I monitored pressure with Multiecuscan and it drops about 4-5 bar every time a gear is selected - so from 54-55 to 49-51 and then 44-47 when the pump kicks in. When it's just sitting though you can watch the system pressure steadily drop - not quickly but steadily. Is this normal?
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Before I did that I drained the accumulator and then took it for a drive. Afterwards I ran the full system reset and got further through it than I ever had before I got an error selecting R.
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I'd say it was time to start replacing the 3 sensors (Potentiometers) on the Actuator, they do wear out eventually.
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Just been for a 13 mile drive and it behaved itself. That said it's cooler out and it always seems to play up when it's hot. Will have to wait and see.
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I replaced one (the one on the back of the actuator) when I replaced the gearbox. Will see about doing the other two.
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I'm going away for six weeks so I won't be throwing any parts at it in the form of the sensors just yet. That said I'm not sure it actually is the sensors.

I did get a replacement loom and installed the night before last. This of course was a battery out job. Once I had it all connected up I then ran a reset via MES. This failed on a reverse fault. I then took the car for a fairly long drive (about 20 miles) and it behaved perfectly, up and down shifted exactly as it should - no dropping out of gear, missing gears etc. But more importantly, I noticed a couple of other things. The engine ran quieter and stronger than it has been of late (I keep getting a rattling that sounds like detonation and the exhaust note has been off, and the power a little disappointing). And the petrol gauge that had previously had the light on and the showing a range of about 35 miles or so had suddenly jumped to a quarter tank with a range of well over a hundred miles.

Then I parked the car and turned the engine off. When I restarted it, all the symptoms had come back. It wouldn't shift properly, the engine was rattly, lower on power etc, and the petrol gauge and range indicator had dropped. I drove it around some more before parking it up and attempting another reset of the selespeed system, which amazing ran all the way to completion. But when started it up it still wasn't right.

This sequence of events happened once before (last week), where I pulled the battery, cleaned the various contacts for the selespeed unit and reset it whereupon it ran perfectly, until I turned it off.

I'm beginning to suspect that there may be an issue with a bad earth or something, given that the selespeed problem seems to be linked to these other issues, and under circumstances it be eliminated (on the first drive after a lengthy battery disconnect and selespeed reset).

I'm going to investigate it tonight and then this thread will be going into hiatus until I get back from overseas.
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