Suspension & seized bolts - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 9 Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Suspension & seized bolts

This autumn, I'll be doing a suspension overhaul on my 156.
I have more or less decided on the suspension setup I want, but what can I expect for stuck bolts?

- Front pinch bolt, I know
- Rear lower strut bolt?

Last time I went to get my car aligned, the rear cam/toe bolts was more or less seized, and had very little room for adjustment. Can I expect to pull them out and clean them up, or will I need to replace these?
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(Post Link) post #2 of 9 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I've only ever damaged one of the lower rear strut bolts which was the early type with the hexagon protrusion (rather than later oval).

If you have a blowtorch for a little heating and a reasonably heavy club hammer of around 3kg, your chances are improved. Some decent penetrating lube helps also. Wurth do Rost off Ice which works well with heat and Plus Gas is good also but these are not always necessary. A decent impact driver can also be useful as anything which helps shock the bolts seems to help.
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(Post Link) post #3 of 9 Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I've got WD40, heat and my trusty Ryobi impact. No big hammer though, and no breaker bar.
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(Post Link) post #4 of 9 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Start by binning the WD40 and buy some proper penetrating fluid like PlusGas ..



I got the rear bolts out with a breaker bar and persuasion. I replaced them when I put the new transverse arms on. A few years later they came out without any hassle when I replaced the rear struts, but I had coated them liberally with water-proof grease! :-)


.. I never did manage to even loosen the front pinch bolt ... :-(
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Worth assuming the worst with regard to corrosion and seized bolts. Don't be afraid to cut where necessary.

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(Post Link) post #6 of 9 Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazza82 View Post
Start by binning the WD40 and buy some proper penetrating fluid like PlusGas ..
I live in Denmark, we don't get PlusGas.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgmayhead View Post
Worth assuming the worst with regard to corrosion and seized bolts. Don't be afraid to cut where necessary
Not afraid of cutting, but I don't want to spend 160£ on new nuts and bolts, if I can get away with spending 80£. And before you suggest that I can just return what I don't use; it's a real hassle when you live in Denmark, and purchase bolts elsewhere.
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(Post Link) post #7 of 9 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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The only really problematic ones are the pinch bolts and the big ones in the hub at the back.

If you have steel front forks, your pinch bolts will be fine. Ally - you may need a 10 tonne press to get them out.

For the back - drop the whole suspension, including the subframe and get it on the bench. Then you can work on it properly and are likely to be able to save everything.
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Originally Posted by rxe View Post
The only really problematic ones are the pinch bolts and the big ones in the hub at the back.

If you have steel front forks, your pinch bolts will be fine. Ally - you may need a 10 tonne press to get them out.

For the back - drop the whole suspension, including the subframe and get it on the bench. Then you can work on it properly and are likely to be able to save everything.
Would've thought it'd make things flop about more, if I took the entire rear sub off..?

Probably have aluminium forks, so I know that one is going to be PITA...

Any idea about my semi-seized rear cam/toe bolts?
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(Post Link) post #9 of 9 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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The rear subframe is just a bit of ally bolted on to the bodyshell. 4 big bolts, 4 small bolts on the ARB and disconnect the calipers + ABS and the shock top mounts and the whole lot is on the deck. 30 minutes work.

Rear cam bolts may well be seized, but with the subframe out you can get oil on them.
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