Best way to achieve -30mm on a Alfa GT 3.2 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 13 Old 04-04-19 Thread Starter
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Best way to achieve -30mm on a Alfa GT 3.2

Hi All, first post to the forum

I have a 2005 Alfa Romeo GT 3.2, and i'm looking to lower it about 30mm, its on 17" wheels at the moment but i'm looking to go to 18" wheels off a Blackline if i can find some in good condition.

I know i have the GTA front anti roll bar, there is also some ambigious paperwork in the cars history concerning the front dampers and springs. I'm not sure if they are uprated at all as the ride height looks normal, but its a very firm ride at the front at least.

I see there are alot of options, GTA OEM suspension, Eibach, H&R, Spax etc, then coilover options, from cheap to expensive.

What is the collective opinion on the 'best' way to get the car a little lower?

Also, the negative camber will increase as a result of the lowering, is there an accepted way of adjusting this back to OEM settings? Is there enough on the stock adjusters? Adjustable camber bushings? Adjustable lower arms? etc

Thanks in advance

Matt
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You won't find many arguing against the performance of KW V1 coilovers.

Regarding camber - no way to correct it with the factory set-up. You can get some custom bush inserts to shift the upper wishbone and regain a few more degrees to the vertical, but as long as your toe angle is set up correctly you shouldn't find tyre wear a problem with the extra camber you pick up with a 30mm drop.

Camber + excessive toe in = excessive inner shoulder scrub
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I’ve tried everything on a load of cars, and the answer (unfortunately for our wallets) is KWs. Coilovers mean the whole lowering discussion goes away - if you want to lower it or raise it 5mm, you can. Pud237 on here sells modified kw kits that have longer front springs - the default option from KW is “really lowered”, the longer springs put a sensible ride height slap in the middle of the adjustable range.

They absolutely transform the car.

I think there is camber adjustment (ovalised mounting holes) on the KW rear shocks. Can’t remember.

Last edited by rxe; 04-04-19 at 09:01. Reason: Speling
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I’ve tried everything on a load of cars, and the answer (unfortunately for our wallets) is KWs. Coilovers mean the whole lowering discussion goes away - if you want to lower it or raise it 5mm, you can. Pud237 on here sells modified kw kits that have longer front springs - the default option from KW is “really lowered”, the longer springs put a sensible ride height slap in the middle of the adjustable range.

They absolutely transform the car.

I think there is camber adjustment (ovalised mounting holes) on the KW rear shocks. Can’t remember.
I have a 3.2 V6 on 18inch Blacklines but not lowered so might be useful point of ref before you start
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(Post Link) post #5 of 13 Old 04-04-19 Thread Starter
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Thanks all, food for thought.

Found an older thread that discussed the Koni dampers with Eibach springs and anti roll bars and another decent option.

I'll price up a few options and go from there.

spongarelli, thanks for that, i'm happy with that look, just a little lower to suit my taste without going to 'stance'

Thanks
Matt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rxe View Post
I’ve tried everything on a load of cars, and the answer (unfortunately for our wallets) is KWs. Coilovers mean the whole lowering discussion goes away - if you want to lower it or raise it 5mm, you can. Pud237 on here sells modified kw kits that have longer front springs - the default option from KW is “really lowered”, the longer springs put a sensible ride height slap in the middle of the adjustable range.

They absolutely transform the car.

I think there is camber adjustment (ovalised mounting holes) on the KW rear shocks. Can’t remember.
That was the Eibach Pro Street S kit which I supplied you with that had longer springs. The shock bodies on the Eibachs are made by KW, they are exactly the same as the V1 shock bodies and they do have the ovalised holes on the rear for camber adjust. The Eibach kits don't use the same springs as the original KW kits though, KW springs are slightly different. Annoyingly though if you do want different springs on a KW kit, they won't supply them, you have to buy the other springs individually. But the original springs on the KW kit are fine for most GT / GTA owners in my experience, its only those that don't really want to lower the car much at all if anything find them a little on the hard side.
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The advice about KW coilovers seems good. After trawling the technical sections of sports suspension websites it became obvious that sport springs for OE struts, or for sport struts, are simply TS/JTS front springs which have been extruded to a longer free length. In other words, the ride height is right but the spring rating is wrong for the extra weight of a V6 of JTD.

I only looked into this after reading comments from people with a V6 or JTD (excessive front end pitching) and so it seems that whatever way you go, to be really happy with it, custom front springs are needed.

That said, I suppose it depends on how the car will be used and how demanding you are. In that case, it may be wise to try an off the shelf set-up first.

As for camber, both 156s on Eibach Pro Kit springs have a 345-350mm front wheel centre to wheel arch measurement. Camber has increased to 2 degrees of negative on both cars. I wouldn't want lower or more camber but it's ok as is- just.
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Originally Posted by Pud237 View Post
That was the Eibach Pro Street S kit which I supplied you with that had longer springs. The shock bodies on the Eibachs are made by KW, they are exactly the same as the V1 shock bodies and they do have the ovalised holes on the rear for camber adjust. The Eibach kits don't use the same springs as the original KW kits though, KW springs are slightly different. Annoyingly though if you do want different springs on a KW kit, they won't supply them, you have to buy the other springs individually. But the original springs on the KW kit are fine for most GT / GTA owners in my experience, its only those that don't really want to lower the car much at all if anything find them a little on the hard side.
i have kw v1 and i am very happy with them. they are confortable for coilovers and they make the car much better.

sorry for the offtopic,
Pud 237 how can i contact you?
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i have kw v1 and i am very happy with them. they are confortable for coilovers and they make the car much better.

sorry for the offtopic,
Pud 237 how can i contact you?
my Alfaowner username @ gmail.com

Last edited by Pud237; 04-04-19 at 20:03.
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Originally Posted by _The_Editor_ View Post
Camber + excessive toe in = excessive inner shoulder scrub
My understanding, FWIW:

Negative camber and X toe-out will tend to wear the inner edge of the treads more quickly. Negative camber and X toe-in will tend to wear the inner edge less quickly.

So, if there is significant negative camber, to minimise tread wear there ought to be some small amount of toe-in. If there were to be a similar amount of toe-out then the tread wear is very likely to be worse (with the same degree of negative camber).

So, if the tyres are wearing excessively on the inner shoulder, then adding some amount of toe-in is likely to be beneficial (for tread wear).

I have my own ideas as to the mechanics of why this generally seems to be the case, but don't want to break the internet trying to explain them...

There doesn't seem to be much information on the net directly related to this, but a hint from this page on Eng-Tips.com:
https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=205909

Quote from Greg Locock:"Adding toe-in can help to reduce the shoulder wear associated with negative camber. It wouldn't exactly amaze me to see toe of -.05 to -.2 times the static camber setting."

Regards,
John.
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Yes, I noted about 15 years ago that toe-in can influence tyre wear by how the tyre presents to the road surface. The trouble is getting a place to adjust alignment to custom settings. That's what happens with sophisticated equipment and half-wits who only know to tamper with it until the screen goes green.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlear View Post
My understanding, FWIW:

Negative camber and X toe-out will tend to wear the inner edge of the treads more quickly. Negative camber and X toe-in will tend to wear the inner edge less quickly.
Fair enough, I knew it was toe angle in one or the other direction causing excessive wear!
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(Post Link) post #13 of 13 Old 16-04-19 Thread Starter
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Afternoon all,

Just updating this thread, i've gone for Bilstein B14 coilovers for the car.

Struggling to get the Blackline wheels for decent money, i may end up buying a blackline to get the wheels off it at this rate.
Failing that, i may go to a 19" wheel

Thanks
Matt

Last edited by StreetDragster; 16-04-19 at 13:55.
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