1) I was looking for GTB2060VKLR for my Alfa 159 1.9JTDM and I found ref numbers for it 802774-5005s and 5007s it is Mercedes GL 350 Year 2011 Turbo.
I found new, and also I found 11-hour-run test turbo from factory. I bought the used one for now, because ıt has still one year guaranty, anyway. But in the Plate
it is only written GTB2060V and last number is 5 not 5005 or 5007, is it normal ?
2) I asked him , for the shaft, it is moving a little bit. My older turbo has 300.000Km and was ok. Also shaft was moving a bit. He says, its ok, because every part which needs to be oiled, need to have some space, is it normal,
3) For the electrical VNT controller, I will figure it out, but do you ever know pin-outs or do you ever control it before?
4) For the space issue, I need to turn the turbo a little bit. But in the intake side, I cannot do it. As you see VNT controller is connected to intake. But exhaust part is free, Do you think I have a chance to losen screws and turn it some degre?
I've taken your numbers from your plate and they all point towards a vklr unit I thought if it was a vklr it would of been printed on the plate but I may be wrong/are wrong
The number should be a vklr unit. But, that number is stamped into the compressor housing.
Check out the oil flanges of the chra. If you look into the oil return hole, you can see the bearing arrangement.
I think I saw it, I cannot take a clear picture, but as I know journal bearings are colored yellow/gold - because of brass like material. But mine was gray like normal ball bearing.
I don't know if all VKLR has water cooling or not. but ,I have water line in the Turbo
But I need this :Water & Oil Fittings
PS: Also My engine died, so now I've changed internals, and balanced the crank upto 8000Rpm, Did Reshaped Valves, Did Reshaped inlet,
And Making new inlet manifold, Exhaust Manifold, WaterToAir Intercooler.
I don't know if all VKLR has water cooling or not. but ,I have water line in the Turbo
PS: Also My engine died, so now I've changed internals, and balanced the crank upto 8000Rpm, Did Reshaped Valves, Did Reshaped inlet,
And Making new inlet manifold, Exhaust Manifold, WaterToAir Intercooler.
Looks overly complicated... Why don't you use something more simple (classic charge cooler), and just keep all connections between turbo and manifold as short as possible.
You could mount classic charge cooler somewhere by the side of the engine, where battery is mounted and relocate battery to the trunk. That should work just fine.
I got one for an Excort RS turbo and like you say Tribesman, I was intending to mount it under the bonnet, after having moved the battery to the boot, I was also going to cover it in aluminium heat sinks to assist in heat loss, a sort of hybrid intercooler/chargecooler.
Mine is a Pace one, the type thats essentially an air to air intercooler enclosed in a water jacket, the type emre2blue mentioned in his link is supposed to be much more efficient than the type I have.
I don't know if it is ok for the manufacturer, if I show the prices but, here is response from the Core manufacturer.
Hi,
Intercooler cores are still available in lengths from 198,2 up to 407 mm, please see our webpage for standard lengths. You can purchase from our retailer Think Automotive Ltd in UK or directly from us.
Price is from 121,00:- EUR/ea up to 155,00:- EUR/ea depending on length.
I didn't want big intercooler in front of my car. Because In Winter sometimes I close in front of the car, So my second project is a controller for flaps infront of the car, managing the air flow.
Yeah, I was just going to suggest something like that - BMW Efficient Dynamics (and similar stuff from other manufacturers) have solenoid operated flaps for efficient engine warming/cooling.
I don't think it is stainless steel. As you may see in the start of the thread, it is cast. So it would be hard to weld for me. Or It is hard to find a qualified welder for this job in Turkey.
I was thinking about a manifold like this. But I 'm trying to make much more smoother.
GTB2060VKLR has 90 degre input from exhaust manifold. And I found original design of Mercedes. I don't want to cut the turbo, and I don't know if anyone could weld it correctly in Turkey. So what should I do, Should I do like mercedes manifold and exit from end, and turn 180 degre ? Or still make a mid-exit manifold ?
Bigger manifold volume, bigger lag... it is not huge difference but it is noticable. Lets say 4-1 tubular manifold will spool around 100rpm later than compact manifold.
Hmm ok, What do you say about Cutting Turbo and Welding new entrance from exhaust manifold. I know some companies do it. How do you connect the Turbo, can I buy a new closure for GTB2060VKLR with supports 90 degree intake?
You can cut it, but welding of cast iron parts is not the easiest job. It can be done, but it helps if you have someone who has experience in welding cast iron parts.
Also it is very important to make transition as smooth as possible.
On the other hand yes you can buy new turbine housing, but I doubt anyone will sell you only housing. I think they only come as complete turbo.
So if you find an used/broken turbo with housing that fits, or can be modified, that would be the best way to get the housing for reasonable money.
Isn't the VKLR turbine housing stainless steel?
If so, it may be easier to weld than cast iron.
For tubular vs log manifold; difference in spool rpm maybe only 100 rpm, what is more important is the time to boost and transient response, that's much worse with tubular.
I don't think it is stainless steel. As you may see in the start of the thread, it is cast. So it would be hard to weld for me. Or It is hard to find a qualified welder for this job in Turkey.
I was thinking about a manifold like this. But I 'm trying to make much more smoother.
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