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Bought a new Turbo, have lots of questions.

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bought lots
9K views 118 replies 15 participants last post by  JS JTD 
#1 ·
Hi

1) I was looking for GTB2060VKLR for my Alfa 159 1.9JTDM and I found ref numbers for it 802774-5005s and 5007s it is Mercedes GL 350 Year 2011 Turbo.
I found new, and also I found 11-hour-run test turbo from factory. I bought the used one for now, because ıt has still one year guaranty, anyway. But in the Plate
it is only written GTB2060V and last number is 5 not 5005 or 5007, is it normal ?

2) I asked him , for the shaft, it is moving a little bit. My older turbo has 300.000Km and was ok. Also shaft was moving a bit. He says, its ok, because every part which needs to be oiled, need to have some space, is it normal,

3) For the electrical VNT controller, I will figure it out, but do you ever know pin-outs or do you ever control it before?

4) For the space issue, I need to turn the turbo a little bit. But in the intake side, I cannot do it. As you see VNT controller is connected to intake. But exhaust part is free, Do you think I have a chance to losen screws and turn it some degre?

Turbo Plate
Turbo Plate2
Turbo
Controller Side
I want to turn from exhaut side
 
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#2 ·
That looks like a journal bearing turbo which will have movement up and down as they float/run on the oil.

Your better off changing to an actuator and still control it with the vacuum.

If you loosen the screws you will be able to clock it and try and give yourself the space you need.
 
#10 ·
Ohh, Hi again,

I don't know if all VKLR has water cooling or not. but ,I have water line in the Turbo
But I need this :Water & Oil Fittings

PS: Also My engine died, so now I've changed internals, and balanced the crank upto 8000Rpm, Did Reshaped Valves, Did Reshaped inlet,
And Making new inlet manifold, Exhaust Manifold, WaterToAir Intercooler.
 

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#11 ·
Ohh, Hi again,

I don't know if all VKLR has water cooling or not. but ,I have water line in the Turbo


PS: Also My engine died, so now I've changed internals, and balanced the crank upto 8000Rpm, Did Reshaped Valves, Did Reshaped inlet,
And Making new inlet manifold, Exhaust Manifold, WaterToAir Intercooler.
Sorry to hear about your engine.

I ve had a waer to air intercooler (chargecooler0 for 5 years which I ve enver got around to fitting, be interesting to see how you get on with yours.
 
#13 ·
Looks overly complicated... Why don't you use something more simple (classic charge cooler), and just keep all connections between turbo and manifold as short as possible.

You could mount classic charge cooler somewhere by the side of the engine, where battery is mounted and relocate battery to the trunk. That should work just fine.
 
#14 ·
I got one for an Excort RS turbo and like you say Tribesman, I was intending to mount it under the bonnet, after having moved the battery to the boot, I was also going to cover it in aluminium heat sinks to assist in heat loss, a sort of hybrid intercooler/chargecooler.

Mine is a Pace one, the type thats essentially an air to air intercooler enclosed in a water jacket, the type emre2blue mentioned in his link is supposed to be much more efficient than the type I have.
 
#15 ·
I don't know if it is ok for the manufacturer, if I show the prices but, here is response from the Core manufacturer.

Hi,

Intercooler cores are still available in lengths from 198,2 up to 407 mm, please see our webpage for standard lengths. You can purchase from our retailer Think Automotive Ltd in UK or directly from us.
Price is from 121,00:- EUR/ea up to 155,00:- EUR/ea depending on length.

Med vänliga hälsningar / Best regards,

Robert Herou

Production Laminova
 
#19 ·
Hi again. I don't want to open a new thread, Just I learned some dimension about downpipe. And draw it. Can you give me some hint about it?

My Turbo dimensions are :

44.86mm - Downpipe Entrance
39.6mm - Exhaust Manifold Out

51,20mm - Air Inlet From MAF
42.52mm - To intercooler.

So I made a flange, and 45mm to 60mm cone - in 60mm . Bend with 60x1.5 and move a little bit and finish it with 63.5x1.5
 

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#38 ·
I don't think it is stainless steel. As you may see in the start of the thread, it is cast. So it would be hard to weld for me. Or It is hard to find a qualified welder for this job in Turkey.

I was thinking about a manifold like this. But I 'm trying to make much more smoother.
Mild steel can handle the heat fine if you make it from thick enough tubing for the manifold:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVy12GiQcQY&list=PLvKTvFJhZUJi_4_zliMEucYtH7R6D_mjD&index=5
From 10 minutes in they start building the manifold
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPYYAufu9MA&list=PLvKTvFJhZUJi_4_zliMEucYtH7R6D_mjD&index=7
The 1st few minutes they finish off the manifold

On my TS racer (same exhaust ports as 16V JTD):
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=412657&d=1414607606
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=518890&d=1434554039

Normal exhaust piping thickness is fine for downpipe:
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=619146&d=1457690671
 
#23 ·
GTB2060VKLR has 90 degre input from exhaust manifold. And I found original design of Mercedes. I don't want to cut the turbo, and I don't know if anyone could weld it correctly in Turkey. So what should I do, Should I do like mercedes manifold and exit from end, and turn 180 degre ? Or still make a mid-exit manifold ?
 

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#28 ·
You can cut it, but welding of cast iron parts is not the easiest job. It can be done, but it helps if you have someone who has experience in welding cast iron parts.
Also it is very important to make transition as smooth as possible.

On the other hand yes you can buy new turbine housing, but I doubt anyone will sell you only housing. I think they only come as complete turbo.
So if you find an used/broken turbo with housing that fits, or can be modified, that would be the best way to get the housing for reasonable money.
 
#30 ·
Isn't the VKLR turbine housing stainless steel?
If so, it may be easier to weld than cast iron.
For tubular vs log manifold; difference in spool rpm maybe only 100 rpm, what is more important is the time to boost and transient response, that's much worse with tubular.
 
#31 ·
I don't think it is stainless steel. As you may see in the start of the thread, it is cast. So it would be hard to weld for me. Or It is hard to find a qualified welder for this job in Turkey.

I was thinking about a manifold like this. But I 'm trying to make much more smoother.
 

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